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Need Advise - Splitting the Cases

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I have to service the crank on my '13 SX 250, the bearings are toast... I'm about to split the case, I need a good 27mm socket and a flywheel puller to go any further but I'm wondering if I need to take out the clutch? On the '13 with the new machined basket, the primary gear can come out without removing the clutch. I'm figuring I could take out the crank and put it back without touching the tranny, is that possible?

Also the nut on the primary gear is damn tight! Are there any tricks to it besides elbow grease (and the fact that it's left handed..)? I'm using a lockup tool that threads in the sparkplug hole, is that strong enough to break the nut loose?

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I had to use an air impact to get my nut off on the 200. Looks like it had loctite on it at some point. My cordless impact didn't have enough juice. I took off my whole clutch but that's because I'm putting a brand new one in. Are you trying to use a breaker bar while getting the nut off?

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Wasn't, I thought I'd be okay with the basic wrench that came with the bike ;-) I'll get a proper socket today and more leverage. From the sevice manual it doesn't seem that they put locktite on it, but it's torqued to 150Nm.

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Got the nut off, there definitely was some thread lock on it. Now primary gear doesn't clear the clutch basket. I need a clutch holder. Is the clamp style holder suitable for this? 

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0008/

 

Also while at it, do I need other specialty tools to do the split and put everything back together? For example :

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/19017/Tusk-Crank-Bearing-and-Gear-Puller-Set

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17166/Tusk-Crank-Puller-Installer-Tool

 

From the service manual it looks like you can get it done with cold/heat and a bit of pounding...

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You can use an impact on the clutch bolt. Or a clutch holder will be fine. I prefer the clutch hub holder by ebc. I'm not a fan of the clamp style. I wont say you don't need those tools, but having them would make everything much easier. You should measure your friction plates in the clutch and maybe replace those if need be.

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Oh sweet, in deed the EBC holder is the thing, much like the KTM service tool, I'll try to get one...

Damn this job is already longer and more involved than expected, at least I'm gaining valuable experience, next time will be easier.

Thanks for the hints!

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If you go with the clamp style holder be very careful not to put an excessive amount of pressure on the clutch basket fingers or they will break. All you need to do is make it tight enough to hold the basket in place so you can turn the nut it does not require gorilla force :naughty:

 

You don't need the crank tool or the case splitter tool they are not a press fit like on the oriental bikes cases come apart very easy and the crank lifts out. Just be sure to pay attention to the dowel pins and don't seat the seals past flush.

Edited by Rider 41
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Thanks, I was just checking with my dealer and he's not sure he can get the EBC wrench, might have to go with the clamp. Do you reuse the lock washer or always get a new one?

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Apparently canadian distributors can't get anything, ended up ordering the EBC wrench from eBay, won't be as quick but at least I'll have the right tool for the job... Maybe I should buy a second bike as mule while I'm repairing ;-)

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I have a 2nd :) everyone should! My case came apart very easy. So I would be confident saying your should too. If you are able to, drill a hole so you can slide the crank shaft down through and your case will sit flush. Will help for installing the cases back together and the gears.

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Oh sweet, in deed the EBC holder is the thing, much like the KTM service tool, I'll try to get one...

Damn this job is already longer and more involved than expected, at least I'm gaining valuable experience, next time will be easier.

Thanks for the hints!

There shouldn't be a "next time".  How in the world did you wind up with bad crank bearings on a '13?

 

There are three key tools you should have for splitting cases: a case splitter, crank puller, and flywheel puller.  Impact guns and the motion pro "gear jammer" also come in handy.  I have these tools because I work on many bikes and buy and sell used bikes.  But I would think that a regular recreational rider/racer with one or two bikes should be getting many many seasons out of the crank with proper maintenance and sensible premix ratios like 32 or 40:1.  Is there someone you can borrow the tools from?  If not, I would consider sending it to a reputable builder (post on KTM talk).  The overall cost won't be much more than buying the tools, and the crank should hold up for longer than most people keep dirt bikes.

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There shouldn't be a "next time".  How in the world did you wind up with bad crank bearings on a '13?

That's a good question, it did suck up a bit of sand, I know I have to be more cautious with air filter maintenance. I had a 2009 before and the bearings endured, I sold it with 140hrs. I know I haven't changed my habbits between bikes, perhaps the quality degraded?

Of course I could just bring the bike to a dealer and ask them to 'fix it' but I'm more of the diy type and usually do a good job. I'm confident I'll get it done. Next time might be a buddy who needs a hand too.

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Update

 

Got the crank out finally, didn't have to take out the clutch after all. Next step though, how the heck do you remove the old bearings?? Tried heating and pounding the right side, it won't budge... More heat and heavier pounding? That doesn't seem right... What do I do with the left side? Can't even hammer it out from the outside, I'm stumped  :(

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Update

 

Got the crank out finally, didn't have to take out the clutch after all. Next step though, how the heck do you remove the old bearings?? Tried heating and pounding the right side, it won't budge... More heat and heavier pounding? That doesn't seem right... What do I do with the left side? Can't even hammer it out from the outside, I'm stumped  :(

Are you talking about the stater side with roller bearings?

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Are you talking about the stater side with roller bearings?

 

Yup, the one that is blind and doesn't have an inner cage. The manual says that after heating up they should basically fall out, I haven't seen this.

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Not sure how to explain this but I made a tool to get it out. After I broke out the plastic bearing retainer and picked up all the roller bearings that went everywhere.

 

I found 2 large washers with a outside diameter just slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the bearing race still stuck in the case. I placed one of the washers in the case, lined up all the roller bearings on top of that washer and in the race, then careful not to move the roller bearings out of place I sandwiched the roller bearings with another washer the same size and squeezed them together with a nut and bolt. Then you can just tap the entire thing out through the hole from the inside of the case.   

 

Clear as mud?

 

Wish I could take credit for the idea but I had it explained to me by Cooksey of Cooksey Cranks when he rebuilt the crank for my 200EXC

 

Hey Rider 41, I still have that set up if you ever need it. Can save you some head scratching when you do a bottom end on your 200 someday, I hope someday is a long way off for ya but you know the ya hoos that did your last bottom end :lol:

Edited by Enduroguy

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Clutch Removal

 

I didn't like the idea of working on the crank bearings while the transmission was still in so I went ahead to remove the clutch. I haven't received my clutch holder yet so I went for a bit of a McGyver way; I jammed the transmission using coins, put back the case together, put engine in frame and then untighten clutch nut. Was kind of involved but it worked very well and I has the leverage needed to loosen the nut. It was way harder than expected, there's the same type of locktite as the primary gear on it. Now I got the engine fully disassembled and can properly service and clean. I'm anticipating a lot of fun putting the transmission back in ;-) 

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Bearings Swapped

 

The cooksey trick did it, the stator side was actually easier to get out than the clutch side. Regardless, the service manual was completely in the hay fields on this, even with plenty of heat it required some hefty pounding to get the bearings out and in (even if the new ones were frozen). Anyways, it's done and the new ones are tighter than a virgin on prom night. If I had to do this on a regular basis I'd definitely get a shop press! But then I'd be able to rebuild cranks myself ... Good retirement plans!

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Glad you got the bearings out. My buddy has a press so I can't relate to your pain. I just sent my cylinder off for a replate and I will be ordering my bearings soon. I gotta figure out how the shift drums aligns with the transmission forks and gears. You mind checking your manual for that?

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