Easy Clutch Pull

The new edition of MXA has an article on how to ease the clutch pull on a 426. They do it by removing the clutch actuator arm from the motor (the piece that the cable connects to). They then cut the arm and weld in a spacer, lenghtening it by 5mm. What this does is create a lever effect, by moving the cable's connecting point farther from the actuator rod, and thus eases clutch pull.

This looks like it would work, and it is basicaly free if you have the skills to do it. Have any of you tried this, and is it worth the time and trouble? I would love to have an easier pull.

If you screw up the arm by doing this, a new one is around $37. I'm almost tempted to try.

One of my riding buddies did this, and his clutch pull felt like a 125; If I was keeping my 426, I'd definitely have this done.

The only negative is that you would have less clutch pressure plate "throw" for the same amount of lever throw.

[ January 23, 2002: Message edited by: holeshot ]

I wonder about how much clutch disengagement is really necessary. I ususally only disengage about 1/3 (with a properly adjusted clutch) to shift or even stop. Usually only pull clutch in all the way when I first go from N to 1st, or when I stop for a bit of time. I have noticed that pulling in the clutch all the way makes a bit of difference: 1)when bike is cold 2)when bike is really hot and I'm abusing the clutch although I've never done this on my WR. Unfortunately I don't know enough about clutches to know exactly where the trade off is between leverage and clutch throw.


Do you have a link to this article, I might give it a try? Is the arm aluminum?



I've done this on bikes in the past and it works great. I plan on doing this to my 426 in the next couple weeks. Only difference afterwards (besides considerably lighter clutch pull) is a longer throw, but that's ok.


Sorry, I don't have a link for the article. It is in the latest edition of MXA. The arm is made of steel and can be welded on.

Having a longer arm would give a longer clutch throw, not shorter.

OK, I made the time to do it!!

I just completed this modification. Clutch pull is much better. I lengthened the arm somewhere between 4-5 mm. MXA said not to go over 5mm, so I didn't, although I can't see how going slightly longer would hurt. It looks like it would help.(within reason) I look forward to doing a side-by-side comparison with another bike to see just how much easier it is. (to make sure that it is not my over-active imagination....Ha!)

This modification is simple, and if you have access to a mig welder and a scrap piece of thin metal, it doesn't cost a dime. After the arm is welded and you grind the weld smooth, the galvanizing will be gone. You will need to put a coat of paint on it to keep it from rusting.

i must be blind, i can't find the article..

what month MXA is it in?????????

It is in the March 2002 edition. Page 118

Hey Johnnie - did your collarbone heal yet? I want to see how all that polishing turned out.

Lighter clutch pull - who needs a clutch? :)

I'm planning on either Splendora or 3 Palms this Saturday. If you get your clutch actuator done by then...

Steve Thompson

[ January 23, 2002: Message edited by: skthom2320 ]

Hey Steve, have you ridden Three Palms? I don't think I'll try this mod before this weekend. (don't have the time) The collarbone is healed and my suspension has been revalved by John Mitchell Racing. Let me know where and when you decide to ride.


Does anyone have pictures of the finished product? I'd like to try this on mine.

It's an old man trick

We've done it for years on our old mx bike with good results on every bike we've try (mainly older KX, YZ and CR, 78 and up)

So I'd also done it on my new 00 426 when new. Work great. 7 mm longer if my memory is right, longest I could, it now nearly touch the opposing case (less than 1mm clearance)

Only drawback was since I've done the "01 clutch mod". Adding the spring plate outfit help so much to get out of the drag that plague 00 426.

But in other side now my lengthened clutch arm didn't seem to totally disengage clutch, probably due to the spring plate that push a little farther on inner plates. Now I usually can't start my bike in gear as it always have some kind of residual clutch drag even when fully disengage at the lever (on a properly adjusted lever).

So final word, don't go too far on clutch arm length. 5mm longer seem right on 01-02, 7mm (or more if you got enough clearance as I'm not totally sure of the length I used), is ok on 00 without "01 clutch mod".

my 2 cents


An easier way is to purchase the MSR Raptor clutch lever. It has adjustable throw lengths. You may be worried that by shortening the overall throw, the clutch will not completely disengage. I can speak only for my own bike but that is not a problem. It costs $39 or so, and comes in two lever lengths. Hope this saves you some welding, and your arms.

I got the Raptor too (like $40) and my clutch pull is as easy as my friends 520 Magura juice clutch!

Ditto on the Raptor


Originally posted by John H:

I wonder about how much clutch disengagement is really necessary.


Unfortunately I don't know enough about clutches to know exactly where the trade off is between leverage and clutch throw.

I have an MSR Raptor lever which basically accomplishes the same thing as being discussed here. Having less throw is not an issue for me, but I think for motocross or woods, where the clutch is abused, losing some throw could be a problem.

The reason those adjust on the fly perches are so popular is that during a moto the plates get hot and expand, moving the engagement point. I think. I’ve never been on a track, but in tight trees I have experienced this “moving engagement point” and had to stop a few times and adjust my free play (the perch I’m using doesn’t have the quick adjust).

Anywho if you have less throw then you have less wiggle room in this area, and will need to hit your quick adjuster sooner and more often than if you had more throw.

The tradeoff between leverage and throw is that less of the latter results in more of the former.

Hope this helps.

Any of you raptor lever guys,

If you have the shorty lever, how long is it from the pivot bolt to the end of the handle? I'm wanting one short enough that I can get my fingers in between the end of the lever and the barkbusters. Usually just cut the lever, but if the shorty is short enough I might just get it instead.

I haven't tried the short lever, but the standard length clears my Pro Bends. Not by much, but I've never had clearance problems here before.

Not exactly what you were looking for, I know. :)

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