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Not really suspension but where ?.

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O.k. took off the headstock to replace bearings (roller) managed to remove the bearings but cannot remove the seats , asked around and was told ohhhh you need a special (expensive)tool for this , There is only a very small lip and I do mean small on the seat , does anybody have any ideas as buying an expensive special tool for a one off job seems silly , Any ideas for a home made tool  :naughty:  (polite) please .

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You can cut the bearing race off using a grinder , you grind through to just near the stem then break it open using a chisel

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It can be done without one but it makes life so much easier with it. Any chance of borrowing one ? Also keep your old races so you can drive your new races in.

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Thanks Gents for the info , Freakncuttlefish there must be less than a 16th of an inch the screwdriver slips off .

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My YZ450 was like that too.  There really isn't a good lip to get a punch or screwdriver to knock the bearing races out.  Use a dremel bit about the size (small) of a pen or pencil (shape of the one I used - pictured below) in a drill or dremel tool to take some of that lip (the aluminum lip that is part of the frame) down in one spot so you can get a punch on it.  Once I got the race out, I made the groove a little nicer so the next time it will be even easier.  I think I even grooved it in two spots, opposite from each other.

 

606388_front500.jpg

Edited by mch

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Sorry I thought you meant the steering inner bearing race , you meant the outer race , that's harder , I did a rmz 2010 one and that was a nightmare , I used a chisel ground to the same shape as the lip showing (rounded) so it could get a good purchase

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he could have meant that, I thought he meant the ones in the frame. If you are talking about the one on the stem itself, you can grind and chisel.. or use a press if that model triple clamp allows that.

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Those races are easy to take out with a mig welder. All you do is run a quick bead partially  around the inside of the race, it'll fall right out. The weld shrinks it. You need to cover everything from weld splatter and clean out the head bore to make sure no bb's are hanging around. Just make dang sure the bead stay on the race and not wonder off to the head tube.

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Thanks gents , I did mean the one on the frame .And do not have access to a mig welder would a arc welder do the same or would a blow torch do to heat it, so will have to try hammer and chisel .

micky0121

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Don't heat it with a blowtorch. The race will expand inside the headtube and bind in even tighter. Either try the welder, chiesel, dremmel or buy the tool.

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