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The best mod you can do to get the most performance from a 250f is change the cams. 

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The best mod you can do to get the most performance from a 250f is change the cams. 

 

That's been my understanding as well. I've read that some use a stage 1 IN and stage 2 EX while others use stage 1 IN & 1 EX. Guess it depends on type of riding. Personally I do 75% single track & 25% MX on my 07' YZ250F. Been contemplating the 1 IN & 2 EX. Curious what others are doing.

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The best mod you can do to get the most performance from a 250f is change the cams.

How is the power to weight ratio does it rev high or nose over my 14 450 keeps on pulling I'm not going to be trying my 25o for another month and a half I have a broken foot. Edited by cas747

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How is the power to weight ratio does it rev high or nose over my 14 450 keeps on pulling I'm not going to be trying my 25o for another month and a half I have a broken foot.

Come on guys let's get some posts started man.

Make it an all purpose community thread there's gotta be some good people on this site with valuable information to share man I know it put up your posts here I'm looking forward to hearing some different opinions.

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A dose of reality is the bike stock, has may more power than 99% of the owners. Unless you are a A class rider and nearly pro, the engine is plenty powerful enough. To go faster, the rider needs to practice and ensure the suspension is working properly. Modifying an already highly strung engine by a non-pro engine builder often results in the smooth power curve being ruined and an engine only producing gobs of power at peak and no where else. Most aftermarket parts sellers only tout 'gains' and never the loss.

 

A fresh chain does wonders.

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I thought one of the well-known engine guys on here mentioned that the bike is already cammed very aggressively from the get-go, on these bikes. It is a super fast bike in stock form. I spent quite a bit to get my ;10 to where it is now, power-wise. If I get a 14+, I'd prob throw a pipe on it, get the gytr tuner and call it a day. Use the rest to get the suspension set up for me, get the cycra shrouds to help get rid of the fat-feeling and that's about it. Enjoy the fact that you don't have to have a shop work wonders to make it fast, which in-turn gives you a fast bike that will last a long time.

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Agreed - this is the only bike I've owned that needed absolutely nothing performance wise. Although, being a woods rider I've toyed with ideas like a stage 1 hot cam & flywheel weight to to improve low-end / lugging, but I've just learned to feather the clutch and ride faster through the technical stuff. I'll probably leave the engine/exhaust alone and put $$ toward the suspension. 

 

Edit: SP

Edited by pbeeny
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Agreed - this is the only bike I've owned that needed absolutely nothing performance wise. Although, being a woods rider I've toyed with ideas like a stage 1 hot cam & flywheel weight to to improve low-end / lugging, but I've just learned to feather the clutch and ride faster through the technical stuff. I'll probably leave the engine/exhaust alone and put $$ toward the suspension.

Edit: SP

I plan on just an fmf slipon I put on my yz450f and use the tuner and leave it alone myself.

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A dose of reality is the bike stock, has may more power than 99% of the owners. Unless you are a A class rider and nearly pro, the engine is plenty powerful enough. To go faster, the rider needs to practice and ensure the suspension is working properly. Modifying an already highly strung engine by a non-pro engine builder often results in the smooth power curve being ruined and an engine only producing gobs of power at peak and no where else. Most aftermarket parts sellers only tout 'gains' and never the loss.

A fresh chain does wonders.

Yes the stock chain is a bit subpar. More like a bicycle chain:D

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Yes the stock chain is a bit subpar. More like a bicycle chain:D

My commnet was not directed so much at OEM quality but rather, a chain is a power sucking part, often taking as much as 5 to 10% of the available power. So on a bike making 40 Hp at the crank, looses about 2 Hp in the primary and trans and another 2 to 4 Hp in the drive chain. Think about it, a 5% gain across the entire rev range, just having a perfect chain and sprockets. No pipe or cam can do that. The problem is, a chain is not glamorous.A chain with ten ride days on it looks as nearly good as a brand new one. It is not like a pipe with a sticker and all the noise that tells everyone you are about to 'go pro'.

I am amazed at the number of bikes I see at the track, new $300 sticker kits, new open pipes then with shot chains, bent levers and stiff cables.

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My commnet was not directed so much at OEM quality but rather, a chain is a power sucking part, often taking as much as 5 to 10% of the available power. So on a bike making 40 Hp at the crank, looses about 2 Hp in the primary and trans and another 2 to 4 Hp in the drive chain. Think about it, a 5% gain across the entire rev range, just having a perfect chain and sprockets. No pipe or cam can do that. The problem is, a chain is not glamorous.A chain with ten ride days on it looks as nearly good as a brand new one. It is not like a pipe with a sticker and all the noise that tells everyone you are about to 'go pro'.

I am amazed at the number of bikes I see at the track, new $300 sticker kits, new open pipes then with shot chains, bent levers and stiff cables.

I've never looked at it that way but how you explained it.

Its 100% true good thing I put the did gold chain on all my bikes I did it for looks and noise but now it's good I'm not being robbed off horse power.

William I have never tried a 250 thumper I have a 14 yz450f and 13 rmz450f am I going to be surprised of the 250f balls?

Edited by cas747

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I've never looked at it that way but how you explained it.

Its 100% true good thing I put the did gold chain on all my bikes I did it for looks and noise but now it's good I'm not being robbed off horse power.

William I have never tried a 250 thumper I have a 14 yz450f and 13 rmz450f am I going to be surprised of the 250f balls?

Instead of brute power, you will have to use a bit more finesse. It will also make you a better rider. Just like most people that master a 2S find riding a 4S a walk in the park to go fast.

 

On a track, I like a 250F. Trails/fire roads/dual sporting, a 450 because the speeds are so much higher. No one runs 5th (or in many cases, 4th) gear on an MX track, even on a 250.

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Instead of brute power, you will have to use a bit more finesse. It will also make you a better rider. Just like most people that master a 2S find riding a 4S a walk in the park to go fast.

On a track, I like a 250F. Trails/fire roads/dual sporting, a 450 because the speeds are so much higher. No one runs 5th (or in many cases, 4th) gear on an MX track, even on a 250.

Yes William you almost took the words out of my mouth you will learn to ride better,I was planning on brushing up my skills on the 250 to make me better on my 450.

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Instead of brute power, you will have to use a bit more finesse. It will also make you a better rider. Just like most people that master a 2S find riding a 4S a walk in the park to go fast.

On a track, I like a 250F. Trails/fire roads/dual sporting, a 450 because the speeds are so much higher. No one runs 5th (or in many cases, 4th) gear on an MX track, even on a 250.

Ha ha I like everything you said and totally agree on a 250F for tracks and a 450 for trails. I'm almost at the ripe young age of 42 and still hit 4th gear on the track on my 250F but I am done completely with the 450's.

I did the Desert 100 here in Washington in 2012 and that was the last time for me. I found if I'm getting really fatigued I can recover from a whiskey throttle on the 250F but on the 450.......not so much.

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