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1995 cr125 problems after new head gasket

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Hey guys,

So my cr125 was showing all the signs of needing a head gasket (puking out the rad overflow, nasty coolant, rad cap smelled like exhaust)

So I replaced the gasket and unlike before, it now requires choke to start. Not sure if this could be caused by the new head gasket but I thought id share it anyways. Also, it now wants to idle much slower than it did. Again not sure if related to new head gasket. Also, after I rode it for a minute, gas was pouring out the carb bowl overflow. I don't think this is related but this is a lot of coincidences so I thought id see what you all thought. It did fix the puking out coolant though. So that's a plus.

Thanks

Edited by M3NT4L5

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I'm literally experiencing the same thing with a 98` cr125. Milled the head installed new OEM head gasket and seems to have fixed it , but now gas pours out the carb and its fouling plugs like crazy..

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Gas is pouring out of carb overflow because the float is sticking.

Alright I'll clean the carb... Again... And get back. My gas tank sat open for a while some junk may have fallen into it and then Plugged up my carb when I ran it...

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So today I went to take apart the bike to get at the carb but before I did I checked to see if fuel still leaked from the overflow. It didn't leak. So in conclusion the problem fixed itself overnight. Hopefully it won't happen again.

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Hey guys,

So my cr125 was showing all the signs of needing a head gasket (puking out the rad overflow, nasty coolant, rad cap smelled like exhaust)

So I replaced the gasket and unlike before, it now requires choke to start. Not sure if this could be caused by the new head gasket but I thought id share it anyways. Also, it now wants to idle much slower than it did. Again not sure if related to new head gasket. Also, after I rode it for a minute, gas was pouring out the carb bowl overflow. I don't think this is related but this is a lot of coincidences so I thought id see what you all thought. It did fix the puking out coolant though. So that's a plus.

Thanks

The fuel was a sticking float, the other things are that you fixed an air leak. Likely from that head gasket

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Did u torque the head?

Yeah to the manuals specs of 20 ft/lbs but I only had a inch pounds torque wrench so just did it to 240 inch/lbs which is the same as 20 ft/lbs. I did it in the star pattern and tightened down a little each time I went around until the wrench clicked on each bolt.

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Yeah to the manuals specs of 20 ft/lbs but I only had a inch pounds torque wrench so just did it to 240 inch/lbs which is the same as 20 ft/lbs. I did it in the star pattern and tightened down a little each time I went around until the wrench clicked on each bolt.

good work, the carb acting funny is prolly 'cause the airleak is fixed. Ull prolly have to readjust airscrew, ect. For your proper fuel/air ratio..its prolly running rich now.
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good work, the carb acting funny is prolly 'cause the airleak is fixed. Ull prolly have to readjust airscrew, ect. For your proper fuel/air ratio..its prolly running rich now.

Alright I'll have to look into that some time this week. Thanks

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So today I went to take apart the bike to get at the carb but before I did I checked to see if fuel still leaked from the overflow. It didn't leak. So in conclusion the problem fixed itself overnight. Hopefully it won't happen again.

Things don't fix themselves overnight...something is either in you jets or bowl now, is pull it apart anyways, double check float height while your in there...

Needing choke to start is good, if you don't need it your rich, worn rings or leaky head.

To set the A/F I like to warm engine up, bump up the idle, close in on the AF screw until the idle slows ons stumbles, then back it off before the bike dies. Then I slowly turn the crew out 1/2 turn at a time waiting 15ish second to allow the idle to settle, back the screw out until the idle fails to increase further. Then screw the AF in 1/4 turn. Then I like to dial the screw in or out 1/16 turn at a time until the throttle response is where I feel is the best....you should be between. 1 and 2 turns out if you are jetted correctly....good luck

Edited by matty86suk

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Things don't fix themselves overnight...something is either in you jets or bowl now, is pull it apart anyways, double check float height while your in there...

Needing choke to start is good, if you don't need it your rich, worn rings or leaky head.

To set the A/F I like to warm engine up, bump up the idle, close in on the AF screw until the idle slows ons stumbles, then back it off before the bike dies. Then I slowly turn the crew out 1/2 turn at a time waiting 15ish second to allow the idle to settle, back the screw out until the idle fails to increase further. Then screw the AF in 1/4 turn. Then I like to dial the screw in or out 1/16 turn at a time until the throttle response is where I feel is the best....you should be between. 1 and 2 turns out if you are jetted correctly....good luck

Yep today I took the carb off and there was a little piece of rubber or something in the seat that the needle goes into. Just got that out with a qtip and all is well now. I'll still have to do some carb adjustments but it runs alright as is.

Thanks

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