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2014 oil screen location

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i opened up the cover on the clutch side and am not sure where the oil screen is, any help?

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It is on the other side, behind the oil pump cover.

sry im an idiot i mean i pulled the shifter side. alright ill pull that in a sec thanks

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The oil pump shaft has an impeller on it held by a pin, keep track of that reassemble correctly or else the impeller won't work and the shaft will spin freely. You'll need to pull the flywheel if you haven't done so already.

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Or just don't pull the impeller assembly out, just take the oil pump cover off, clean and reassemble, every bolt is torqued to 87 in/lbs

yea i was hoping to get away without pulling the flywheel but i cant get to the screws without doing so. thanks

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Dude.  BE CAREFUL.  I fubar'ed mine doing the same thing.  If that pin is not sitting flush on rear of the scavenge impeller, it will dig into your case and snap the shaft tabs, causing you WAYY more misery....

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Dude.  BE CAREFUL.  I fubar'ed mine doing the same thing.  If that pin is not sitting flush on rear of the scavenge impeller, it will dig into your case and snap the shaft tabs, causing you WAYY more misery....

i read ur post and it worried me. i wish there was a video on youtube or something cause ive never done anything like this on a four stroke before. im sure its easy and all in my head though.

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Just make sure  you either, A:  Do not remove rotor or shaft on scavenge side, when removing pump cover.  Or, B:  Absolutely make sure the cotter pin that the rotor sits on, is actually in it's little recess on back side of roter and of course, thru the shaft.  I closed up my pump cover with it slightly off.  But cover sealed up fine.  Also, I didn't follow manual to the letter, as it has you do it with the bike on it's side.  Mine was on the stand, so it likely slid out a little.  Also, before you close it all up, just make sure the scavenge rotor rotates when you turn the crank over.  It's driven by the primer shaft and it's gear.


for what it's worth, mine had about 14 hours and the screen was pretty clean.

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Just make sure  you either, A:  Do not remove rotor or shaft on scavenge side, when removing pump cover.  Or, B:  Absolutely make sure the cotter pin that the rotor sits on, is actually in it's little recess on back side of roter and of course, thru the shaft.  I closed up my pump cover with it slightly off.  But cover sealed up fine.  Also, I didn't follow manual to the letter, as it has you do it with the bike on it's side.  Mine was on the stand, so it likely slid out a little.  Also, before you close it all up, just make sure the scavenge rotor rotates when you turn the crank over.  It's driven by the primer shaft and it's gear.

for what it's worth, mine had about 14 hours and the screen was pretty clean.

clean after breakin? thanks for the info, i guess ill try to lay it on its side. is the scavenge rotor the peice at the top right pf the cover in this picture? its a picture with the oil pump cover off

http://gyazo.com/4408fa8a0ccfed55fc457cb8a5366cd5

 

also does it show removal in the owners manual? i looked up a service manual online

Edited by gokitty199

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Not in owners manual, service manual only.  Yeah man, there wasn't much there.  That filter is there to catch anything large before oil goes back over to the pump and up to oil filter, and thus on its circle of flow.  Typically, the sealant of your cases starts to dissolve from the factory after a few hours, the excess sealant, and this filter will catch it.  yes, that star thing is the rotor.  It's attached to the shaft by a little 2mm pin, well really, it just sits on the pin.  Have you seen the pics of mine after I &%$#@!ed it all up??

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Gonna add a few pics, just so you can see HOW NOT to do this and the consequences.  Trust me, not cool.  I understand why it's a two piece design, but the way scavenge side attaches can be improved.  Lol on me.

 

BA14ECE3-E7FD-4CCE-8A9E-6EBC4ED68901_zps

 

 

144F6431-DE4A-45DC-8592-4DF3A2F86DB6_zps

 

A5D489FE-0281-4540-A484-60C2E3CDD336_zps

 

64C09516-E906-4072-A352-43C405907C6C_zps

Edited by netranger6
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Gonna add a few pics, just so you can see HOW NOT to do this and the consequences.  Trust me, not cool.  I understand why it's a two piece design, but the way scavenge side attaches can be improved.  Lol on me.

 

BA14ECE3-E7FD-4CCE-8A9E-6EBC4ED68901_zps

 

 

144F6431-DE4A-45DC-8592-4DF3A2F86DB6_zps

 

A5D489FE-0281-4540-A484-60C2E3CDD336_zps

 

64C09516-E906-4072-A352-43C405907C6C_zps

thanks for that. let u know monday or tuesday how it goes

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ten four bro.  Will save you a bunch of money, or a bunch of time and heart ache.  But on the positive side, I found out running Castrol RS Racing synthetic is really good.  All the internals, that I didn't replace looked brand new.  

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ten four bro.  Will save you a bunch of money, or a bunch of time and heart ache.  But on the positive side, I found out running Castrol RS Racing synthetic is really good.  All the internals, that I didn't replace looked brand new.  

may have to try it once i heal up. gonna give that a try + amsoil

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ten four bro.  Will save you a bunch of money, or a bunch of time and heart ache.  But on the positive side, I found out running Castrol RS Racing synthetic is really good.  All the internals, that I didn't replace looked brand new.  

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1100287-am-i-putting-the-oil-pump-cover-on-correctly/ hows that. im assuming that rod is the piece in your pictures?

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Yes, that is both rods.  The primary and scavenge.  One with the gear looking end is the primary, has a gear that goes on it on right side engine.  The broken end, is the scavenge shaft.  Missing the tabs, according to my mechanic, they were sitting right in by the oil pump.  

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1100287-am-i-putting-the-oil-pump-cover-on-correctly/

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