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**2011 CRF450R modified into 2014 CRF450R** RACE BUILD. POWDER COATED FRAME. **RACE BUILD**

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So to start off i bought a used 2011 crf450r. The motorcycle was in perfect condition but i like style and since the bikes are all fuel injected today it doesn't seem like any more carb issues resulting in loss of power so basically what i am saying is i am sure a 2011 crf450r is definitely on par with a 2014 crf450r. well at least mine will be. in this project we will be modifying a 2011 crf450r into a 2014 crf450r using 2014 full plastic from cycra racing. I will also be using our machine shop we own and run. i will also be bringing in materials not commonly heard of so please don't get confused. i have done this once before on two kawi 250fs if you search on thumper 2010 kx250f race build you will get the idea.... only this is for 2009-1012 model crf450's a lot of people will probably enjoy this thread as a lot of them will hate. This thread will be based on my time and how busy i am also. so if i don't respond to questions please don't get upset. I am a 21 year old mechanical engineer and live by the terms "anything is possible" a lot of you can find me via Instagram @AUSTINRANKINOFFICIAL for more updates on this thread and immediate responses. **CAUTION** please be aware that i could possibly make kits for you if needed because if you don't have these tools i don't know if it will be possible since there will be a lot of custom parts being made.

 

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So to start off i am going to post a pic of what the bike looked like before. 

2011 crf450r basically stock.

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So were ready to start the build. I have received a powder-coated frame and swing-arm. I have ordered a Numara piston knowing that the forged piston is stronger and it also has a coating on the skirt which i think would help. my cylinder has 88hrs so i went with version © of the piston which causes the piston to seal better. My sponsor Cycra racing hooked me up on a full set of plastics for the 2014 crf450r. The plastic will need minor modifications. We will make brackets out of either delrin or plastic and maybe ever some 6061 aluminum. Then anodize them idk yet. Some blue radiator hoses were purchased to help frame pop. I also have bought a Red UFO chain slider. The Engine Mounts were machined on the manual mill. They then were brass brushed over and polished.

IMG_20140808_191314.jpg

 

okay so to start off were gonna test to see were the plastics will wind up needing modification on sotck tank and sub frame. Not saying they couldn't be swapped out i am just seeing what stock items will require for modifications for new parts.

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so first off the shroud lets a tank mount show :( and the plate obviously needs modification. The seat also needs modifying which shouldn't be hard with the band-saw we have. :)

here i am getting a close up on the tank and shroud. and also the rear plate vs sub-frame shown below.

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here is the tank mount and what i did to just half ass bypass this if your not willing to make mounts. But I will be making mounts.

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Here is where the rear plate will need modding vs seat vs sub-frame.

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The blue on the inner side of the plate is where it will need trimmed. which isn't really a big deal. The rear fender will be completely intersting haha.

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Okay so now the bottom mount hole for the plate as it will need a custom bracket. Look below.

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So this will be the end of this post until more later on in the night. To all that will hate Thanks for your time spent on viewing the thread. To all that will appreciate. Thanks will try to answer as many questions as possible. 

 

 

 

 

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I like it being a 2011 and love the powder. 2014 plastic? Don't see the point in that but still

Edited by Diggla117
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okay here is the next things i did when building this beauty. i modified the plate and then installed. i also made brackets to help the plates then fit on the sub-frame perfectly but they are not noticeable. i also modified the fender for the sub-frame. The fender is quite tricky.... if you don't have the tools i mentioned before i don't know if you could do this project. i will go ahead and post pictures of the fender now but as far as it going to be easy you can forget that. none of this except front plate and front fender was slap on and go... 

 

so were gonna start with rear fender modding.

here is a pic with cutaway and one hole drilled.

IMG_20140809_245410441.jpg
 

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I am a 21 year old mechanical engineer and live by the terms "anything is possible"

 

 

Very nice to see there are still some out there!!!!!!!!!

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I am a 21 year old mechanical engineer and live by the terms "anything is possible"

 

 

Very nice to see there are still some out there!!!!!!!!!

 

Where to start...

Words of wisdom to the builder - namura pistons are junk.

 

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Okay so i stayed up all night getting every little last thing done to the cosmetics of the motorcycle. Now just need to insert the engine and go from there. But as far as the mounts go. I am going to show you what i did below........

 

Left side of sub-frame if looking from the rear of the bike.

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Right side.
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 i am in the future gonna work on a custom sub-frame i think. :)

 

the tank wasn't so bad even though it may look weird but i kinda like it with the blue in tact.

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And then the seat will be next but this is how it sits for now.

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so as far as the shroud you basically only have to make one mount. and all the bolt holes line up. But if your gonna do this don't do shroud mounting then install sub-frame, do it all at once.

 

I will be doing a before and after pic on the seat. and what mods it will need. 

 

And as far as the quality of pistons go forged is stronger... but if your replacing your pistons every forty hours like the manual says to do i don't think you will have a issue with any piston you run... i replace my items when they say to replace them just because it prevents other things from happening...

 

 

 

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Okay so i stayed up all night getting every little last thing done to the cosmetics of the motorcycle. Now just need to insert the engine and go from there. But as far as the mounts go. I am going to show you what i did below........

Left side of sub-frame if looking from the rear of the bike.

attachicon.gifIMG_20140809_060337557.jpg

Right side.

attachicon.gifIMG_20140809_060432868.jpg

i am in the future gonna work on a custom sub-frame i think. :)

the tank wasn't so bad even though it may look weird but i kinda like it with the blue in tact.

attachicon.gifIMG_20140809_060315259.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_20140809_060516185.jpg

And then the seat will be next but this is how it sits for now.

attachicon.gifIMG_20140809_060447510.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_20140809_060741267.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_20140809_060656317.jpg

so as far as the shroud you basically only have to make one mount. and all the bolt holes line up. But if your gonna do this don't do shroud mounting then install sub-frame, do it all at once.

I will be doing a before and after pic on the seat. and what mods it will need.

And as far as the quality of pistons go forged is stronger... but if your replacing your pistons every forty hours like the manual says to do i don't think you will have a issue with any piston you run... i replace my items when they say to replace them just because it prevents other things from happening...

Namura pistons have been known many times to not even reach the 40 hour mark, like the weisco cranks, they are a very mixed batch of products.

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Nice bike, like the power coating.

 

Probably wouldn't make sense, but it would be cool to get EFI on the old 450's (I am sure there would be huge changes, but if there was some easy/affordable way to get extra power, that would be cool).

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okay so i have some time for a response now.

carburetor issues causing power loss?

you do know there was no power gain going to efi and someone put a carb on an 09+ motor and saw a hp gain.

the benefit of the efi isn't power.... its the fact that it can start easier, doesn't flood easy, doesn't die as easy or at all when you drop it. and it doesn't have a pesky pilot circuit thats always getting plugged up so less maintenence.

 

the benefit of the 13+ is actually the frame geometry and probably changes to the rigidity of the frame.

the downsides are i heard the motor is milder, 

and the pastics are ugly as &%$#@!.

the dual pipes are gay as hell and help the bike weight more than the 9-12

 

okay wtf makes this a **RACE BUILD**

the 35$ piston?

its about as race as a honda accord with a body kit taped on and a wing fixed with sheet metal screws..... and plastidipped wheels.

 

if it was a RACE build,

youd forget the plastics,

and the powdercoated frame.

 

heres how i think a MECHANICAL ENGINEER would approach this.

 

revalving the shit out of the suspension and try different spring rates/preload, about 80 times until it allows you to be confident in the bike and turn consistently fast lap times. (dont forget link arm lengths, and the merge knuckle, also throw tripple clamp offsets in here,  also goahead and put that swing arm in that machine you have that kind of looks like a mill and machine the axle slot 0.200" further forwards to allow you to run the axle further forwards this helps un&%$#@! up hondas geometry for a 9-12)

 

making the brakes work, smaller lines, larger front rotor, maybe even use a brembo master cylinder with your Nissan caliper

 

loosing weight (start with unsprung mass and rotating mass first) IE buy the lightest wheels avaliable talon hubs, did LTX wheels, and Kyte butted spokes.

 

making more power, ported head, with copper alloy valve seats, del west valves, better springs, overiszed bucket followers, cam with quicker ramp rates and different opening and closing points (adjustable timing gear), high compression piston from CP, a carillo rod on a oem crank, 5th gear modification. top it off with a pipe properly designed to extract horspower a JEMCO (JEMCO is a megaphone - muffler its really one of the only pipes out there that are somewhat properly designed and dont cost 4x too much)

 

now play with the mapping for as long as it takes to get it right.

 

PICK anything from anywhere in there...............

and its a better use of time than what your doing now.

 

so im going to go ahead and pull that Mechanical engineering card :p

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3yrs is all it takes to get a engineering (mechanical)degree, I'm tearing into my son tonite he's on his 4th yr and not done. Is your shop at a holiday Inn?That would explain the 3yr degree in engineering.

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I was 21 once, so I kind of understand @ that age I didn't always make the best decisions.   If you wanted the look of a 13+ CRF450r why not just get one instead of going thru the hassle of fabricating the plastics to fit the 11 ?  I haven't ridden a 13+, but initial reports say the chassis geometry is suppose to be better than the 09-12 models.  They changed the geometry of the head tube for better stability & overall feel of the bike combined with the air forks.  I think a few years from now you'll look back & scratch your head as I did with some decisions I made at 21.  Either way I hope you accomplish what your wanting out of the bike...       

  

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These are all hilarious comments. I find them hilarious haha. Well anyway I deleted the 2014 shrouds and went back to my 2012 style. I love this look thanks to cycra race and development..... And my braking and things are already modified in this pic. My suspension has quite a bit of $$$ invested in it via factory connection services. I also got a red blinking light after rebuilding it it was flashing 8 times so I switched the tps sensor with my iav sensor and it stopped. ;)

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