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Engine Jammed After Sitting 1 Week

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After some desert riding, my 2005 DRZ-400 S had issues running from idle, so I spent some quality time cleaning out the carb. I had ridden it since the carb clean (it ran great) out on the street for 20 or so miles, then parked it in my garage.  A week later I took it out to again ride on the street, and the starter started to turn over the engine then it just jammed.  I tried to kick start it (added previously) and it was definitely jammed - nothing moved.  I then tried to bump start it and like other posts, it just skidded the rear tire.  The next day I tried to kick start it and it's now at least kicking all the way though, but it doesn't have nearly the compression it used to.  I don't hear any unusual sounds when I use the kick starter, but my 11 year old boy is able to kick it.  I'm going to tear into it and thought I'd get some advice before starting.

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When you tried to bump start it were you in third gear?

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Sounds like it was hydrolocked and something gave way when trying to pull start it. You say drz400s, Does it have a kicker motor or just the kickstarter kit?

Also, trying to rollstart a completely locked bike is honestly a horrible idea. It's locked for a reason, trying to break past that lock won't solve anything.

Edited by x_JT_x

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Sounds like the weekly dreaded petcock and needle valve seal (o-ring) failure after cleaning the carb with cleaner :) ask me how I know. Remove the spark plug and try to start it. You will see or smell raw gas. Check the oil for a gas type smell. Let it top end air out via the spark plug hole a bit. Install plug, then try to start it.

If it starts run it for 3 mins. Then shut it off for 3 mins. Make sure it's on level ground and check the oil level. Dont forget to check the oil again for fuel.

That's my guess. Please report back.

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Sounds like the weekly dreaded petcock and needle valve seal (o-ring) failure after cleaning the carb with cleaner :) ask me how I know. Remove the spark plug and try to start it. You will see or smell raw gas. Check the oil for a gas type smell. Let it top end air out via the spark plug hole a bit. Install plug, then try to start it.

If it starts run it for 3 mins. Then shut it off for 3 mins. Make sure it's on level ground and check the oil level. Dont forget to check the oil again for fuel.

That's my guess. Please report back.

I think there is a bit more too it than that.

I think your right, it started as classic hydro lock from a leaky petcock/float valve but has developed into something more serious.

No compression could be bent/stuck valve or rings stuck in the grooves.

It's not miraculously going to get it's compression back after an oil change.

I think the OP has to start at the top and work down, either way, he needs to pull the rocker cover and check what the valve train is doing.

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I had the hydrolock... replaced the needle, and lacked compression... a couple of oil changes, and it was running great.  That was about 10,000 miles ago

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I had the hydrolock... replaced the needle, and lacked compression... a couple of oil changes, and it was running great.  That was about 10,000 miles ago

Interesting, possibly the fuel washes the oil film off the bore and breaks the seal.

Just a little concerned that the OP tried to jump start the bike with a locked up engine.

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Yeah- I think that's exactly what it is- the fuel washes all the oil off...I drained the contaminated oil, replaced the oil, thumbed the starter, then drained again...filled it with oil, then started it and let it idle- worked great ever since

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Thanks for all the guidance, and I have to be honest that I've never heard of hydro-locked even though I've been around bikes and cars for quite a bit.  I pulled off the valve cover and didn't see anything unusual and then I ran to autozone and picked up a compression checker.  The reading was 90 after two separate tries.  I then added a small amount of engine oil and tried again.  The reading was the same - 90.  I then measured the valve clearance and the exhaust was 11 + 14 and the intake was 7 and 9.  I realize they are both a little tighter than oem, so maybe I'll drain the oil like bikeslut suggested and see what happens.

 

On a quick side note, is it possible the electric starter got stuck and that's what caused the engine to freeze?  Does anyone know how I can check to make sure the auto decompression mechanism is causing me trouble?

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