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How to start your pig on your first kick

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after having the pig for about a year, I have figured out what works, for me at least, in starting the pig in one kick.

 

Here is the COLD procedure:

 

1) I stand on the left foot peg, side-stand down (no news here)

 

2) Choke on second position (full choke)

 

3) I pump the kick starter to about the first notch, no decompression

 

4) I use the decompression lever to release some compression going to the second notch with the kickstarter.

 

5) I fully release the decompression level (make sure it is all the way released-sometimes mine gets stuck partially open) and let the kickstarter to fully retract. 

 

6) Then I use a good and full kick while playing with the throttle just a tad, and use my left hand to bring the choke to first position and after bout seconds to no choke position. 

 

It works all the time for me. 

 

The HOT start is quite easy, just crank it and the pig starts every time, the first time, no choke, no need for decompression. 

 

I hope it helps some pig owners. 

 

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1) I stand on the left foot peg, side-stand down (no news here)

6) Then I use a good and full kick while playing with the throttle just a tad

1) You're going to break the kickstand and/or rip the mount tab from the frame. It's not a matter of if, but when. I've got a parts bike right now that has had both repaired because of just that. I bought it that way, I would never do that to one of these bikes.

6) Using ANY throttle is a good way to get a real nasty kick-back on a big-bore single. That applies to just about any make or model big-bore.

If it's working for you, then keep using it, but number one is going to get you eventually. You should really change that part of it.

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This is why I bought the push button version of the XR650.  I spent too many years with kick start bikes and don't miss that part of riding.

 

When cold, mine wants no throttle at all, but full choke.  Even when it has been sitting out in the sun on a 100 degree day, if it's been sitting for a while, it wants full choke to get started.  I can usually turn the choke off right away except in the winter.

 

To save my sidestand, I'll stand on the right peg to get on and off once in a while, but never the left peg.  I would expect that standing on the left peg while kick starting a bike would do exactly what Onederer warned about.  I would never do that on a motorcycle.

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Standing on the left peg is not all that bad as long as you dont put all the weight on that side. I don't always start it on the stand but I have done it for years with no issue. I always try to "balance" the weight on the bike by putting more weight to the right rather than let all the weight transfer to the kick stand.

 

That being said, I only weight 170....

Edited by fourstrokin650

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1) You're going to break the kickstand and/or rip the mount tab from the frame. It's not a matter of if, but when. I've got a parts bike right now that has had both repaired because of just that. I bought it that way, I would never do that to one of these bikes.

6) Using ANY throttle is a good way to get a real nasty kick-back on a big-bore single. That applies to just about any make or model big-bore.

If it's working for you, then keep using it, but number one is going to get you eventually. You should really change that part of it.

 

I have been worrying about that, but so far the support and the kick stand seem to hold on fine.  Being that said, I rather have to weld the support once or twice that not giving it a full good crank with the kick-starter.

 

The tad of gas comes wight after the bike starts and it is minimal, just to keep it from stalling due to over-rich fuel. 

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Nope..I'd never use the stand as a method..snap,,you're on the ground with a snapped something. You can also only really weld that area a certain amount of times before it becomes a giant slag heap.. :facepalm:....plus..odd angle for kicking,,anatomically/geometrically it's a fail.. :smashpc:

Edited by Horri

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Some people don't know how thin that kickstand is. I have broken one off of a bike just by riding hard, one really hard hit and snap.

The impact loading is what breaks them, using them to raise the bike for chain oiling or pivoting the bike around when parked will take much longer to cause a failure.

I used to ride my dads XR250R before I could touch the ground with either foot. He told me if I could start it I could ride it. I pushed it next to something I could stand on with my left foot while kicking it. What a wild ride, I was so light weight on that giant bike (at the time) it was like a rocket.I had to stop next to something that I could touch on or I'd fall over. I never fell over.

When I bought my XR600R parts bike, the owner was no shorter or lighter weight than me and he looked super surprised that I just sat on it and kicked it right over. He was the one who broke the side stand and said he had it braced because he was a "big guy." I'm a big guy too and have no reason to use the side stand. I also ride a bicycle every day and don't have a problem kicking, anything.

No matter a riders weight, kicking a XR600R is easy. Some people make it way more difficult than it is. If I could kick start an XR250R when I couldn't even touch the ground on it, then an adult should have no problem kicking a XR600R over.

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based on these inputs, I may have to change my number one on the procedure. I always thought that the kick stand of the XR650R is a heavy duty one (at least compared to the one on the xr250r which seems to be thinner).

So far, I haven't had any issues , but I don't want to create any. I am 5.11 so I should be able to kick it without the kickstand down.

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based on these inputs, I may have to change my number one on the procedure. I always thought that the kick stand of the XR650R is a heavy duty one (at least compared to the one on the xr250r which seems to be thinner).

So far, I haven't had any issues , but I don't want to create any. I am 5.11 so I should be able to kick it without the kickstand down.

I was waiting for this post, you know, the one where you tell us what bike you are starting.:huh: Thats the problem as i see it with a universal starting guide on this particular forum, there are way too many bikes to cover. Im sure i will forget a bunch but off the top of my head......

Xr650l

Xr600r single carb

Xr600 dual carb

Xl600 dual carb

Xr650r

Xr500

Xl500

Nx650

And the list goes on but im sure you see my point. There would need to be an individual guide for each bike and that wouldnt even cover modded bikes like jetting changes, carb changes, cams, elevation differences and everything else that can influence starting.

While i appreciate your attempt to help others where you have had success, this may be a topic that needs to be addressed on a bike by bike basis. And oh yeah, my bike came with a broken kickstand from the previous owner starting it.

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My no-kickstand method is to jump upward slightly with my left leg, that way the kicker gets both the force of my right leg plus the mass of my whole body coming downward.

 

My bike also came with a broken and rewelded kickstand mount from the previous owner.  Later, the tubing of the kickstand broke just from the weight of the bike leaning against it; it was probably previously weakened.

Edited by heart_of_darkness

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I was waiting for this post, you know, the one where you tell us what bike you are starting. :huh: Thats the problem as i see it with a universal starting guide on this particular forum, there are way too many bikes to cover. Im sure i will forget a bunch but off the top of my head......

Xr650l

Xr600r single carb

Xr600 dual carb

Xl600 dual carb

Xr650r

Xr500

Xl500

Nx650

And the list goes on but im sure you see my point. There would need to be an individual guide for each bike and that wouldnt even cover modded bikes like jetting changes, carb changes, cams, elevation differences and everything else that can influence starting.

While i appreciate your attempt to help others where you have had success, this may be a topic that needs to be addressed on a bike by bike basis. And oh yeah, my bike came with a broken kickstand from the previous owner starting 

 

a pig reference addressed the issue of what bike I was referring too. Also, it is a hard-to-start bike due to compression and no starter, so I thought that the reference was quite obvious.

However, you are right concerning the applicability, this guide quite possibly works for the xr650r only and then it is iffy depending mods etc. I was simply stating what works for me and hopefully it would help some other owner in their starting issues.

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My no-kickstand method is to jump upward slightly with my left leg, that way the kicker gets both the force of my right leg plus the mass of my whole body coming downward.

 

My bike also came with a broken and rewelded kickstand mount from the previous owner.  Later, the tubing of the kickstand broke just from the weight of the bike leaning against it; it was probably previously weakened.

 

I started as of yesterday starting the pig without the kickstand, so far so good, the procedure still works. The key is the little jump now, as you mentioned. 

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Figure I would throw my method in. I believe, for the most part, that this works for all big bore bikes. I have used the method on a YZF250.

I sit on the bike. I have never heard of anyone standing on the footpeg while the bike is on it's kickstand... Anyways, sit on the bike, kick around until the piston hits TDC, then pull in the decompression lever and move the piston just barely past, then WHAM! Give it a solid man kick that goes all the way through the stroke. Works every time.

Of course, I full choke my bike, and it starts up first kick every time. When the kick starter decides to crush your shin from a backfire, you learn to never play with the throttle when starting it ;)

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The 600 had always started easily with the TDC, full choke method. Since replacing the choke plate with an XRS Only homemade replica it now takes 6-8 kicks. Seems to be flooding as I smell gas a few kicks in.

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