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need help with electrical

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i have a 2006 drz 400s, i have gone thru two batteries in the last 6 months they wont hold a charge or anything. i have read on here that it could be the stator the rectifier or the battery, i checked all the connections cause i read it could be corroded terminals, they all look brand new only 2000 miles on bike. i have pulled the battery and charged it but when i put it back in bike and turn the key on it drops to like 10v i rode it fine last week after charging it and it started right up a few times now you press the magic button and there is a clicking and the back rear on right. but before i spend more money has anyone had this problem or can they tell me ways to test so i can trace down the problem or am i just getting crappy batteries. oh if i jump it and hook the multimeter up its at 13.5-13.8 if that helps i dont know the bikes charging volts.

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...and if that were my bike, I'd start with the free power mod. It takes about 20 minutes and costs about .25 cents. And regardless  of weather that is the problem or not, you should do it anyway.

 

Then I'd charge up my battery and take it into where I bought it and get it tested. That will cost 0.00.

Edited by Filipe

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read the FAQ section and check out Eriks electrical truobleshooting walk thru

 

my bike has 20K, on third stator, second rectifier, third battery

 

I love my new Shorai lthium battery...no issues in 3 months, bike always starts now

 

I ordered a new Caltric stator and rectifier on Ebay as well as having my spare RaceTech stator (sorry RickyStator)

 

sounds like your stator is shorting to ground, Erik helped me switch mine out, looked perfect but all 3 phases were shorted to ground, maybe the same with yours

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You may have more then 1 problem. Charge the battery off the bike. Disconnect it from the charger and let it sit for several hours no load.  Then check the terminal voltage.  Should be right around 13 volts.  13.1 or higher is good.  I could probably live with 12.8.  Less than that the battery is either not being fully charged or it will just not hold a charge.  If the battery passes that test, install it in the motorcycle.  When you turn the key on motor not running, the voltage will coast down mostly because of the load of the headlight.  It will probably drop to around 12 volts.  If it drops  much below that, the battery is not very good.  Go ahead and start the motorcycle.  The voltage should now start to increase.  It should quickly climb to above the key off voltage and continue to increase to system regulated voltage of around 14.5 volts.  You may have to increase engine speed to see 14.5 volts.  If you see the voltage start to drop as the RPM's rise, don't worry.  The regulator is regulating but you volt meter can not keep up with the voltage changes.

 

If you can not get the system voltage up into the 14 volt range then probably the stator is bad. Although you need a fully charged battery in good condition to accurately do system voltage tests.  The next step is to do the electrical system troubleshooting test in FAQ.

 

I just went thru this myself (again) a few days ago.  Stator was shorted out.  It would run the motorcycle and charge the battery but only if the headlight was disconnected.  Connect the headlight and system voltage dropped to about 11 volts.  Fortunately that is enough to keep the motor running but the battery will go dead so no E start.  Nursed it 150 miles home.

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Gosh Noble, you do so much good here, sorry to hear you got stranded

 

I have had lots of electrical issues since I bought this bike,,,again third stator, second rectifier, third battery

 

I do have a newer version of the TrailTech flywheel, I  bought a cheap chinese voltmeter off of Ebay

 

My new Shorai battery is holding up well

 

I don't really know if I trust my bike enough to take it to Patagonia but i will carry a spare stator with me

 

the bad stator probably caused the battery to discharge beyond repair, I have not done the free power mod as it seems one of them big crimps might come loose the way my luck is but everyone else seems to be OK with it

Edited by motobobintexas

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If you can not do quality crimps, then do solder splices.  You will need to use crimp-on ring terminals at the battery but they can be crimped and soldered. Quality crimp connections do not need solder.  If you do not do solder or crimps, you can take the regulator rectifier (RR) to someplace that does.  Just taylor the wires to the correct length and take the RR and wire with you to an automotive electrical shop or boat repair shop.

 

You are right not to trust crimps unless you have the right tools.

 

Not stranded. Just push start or park on hills.  After 3 hr run time with no headlight the battery was charged enough to E start.

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...no headlight the battery was charged enough to E start.

Yeah, I ran my bike without a headlight for about 4 months one summer. I would put the bike on the tender at night, and it would run for about 3 days before I had to charge it up again. Then it hit me: Daylight Savings was coming up, and I would be riding home from work in the dark. That's when I discovered Thumpertalk and all the invaluable plethora of information.

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I have been having the same charging problem for several months now. I replaced the battery, only to have it die after about 1 1/2 to 2 hrs of riding. I had done all of the troubleshooting steps and everything checked out fine. I checked the connector referenced in the "free power mod" and it looked fine.  So I resisted cutting it out until a few days ago. Rode it twice today for several hours and the battery remained charged, what a relief.  Cut that sucker out NOW!!!  Could be something else, but eliminate that POS connector first.

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