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New WR250r

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Picking up my new bike on Thursday. I used to have a 2008 WRR many bikes ago. Life has come full circle and I'm getting another. Walked into the dealer the other day for some parts and there was a 2013 leftover that he made me a good deal on.

 

I remember removing lots of useless stuff off the 2008. Wondering what things are you guys removing without any problems. I don't plan on getting a pipe or a programmer. Wanting to keep it pretty basic. I remember opening up the air box somehow??? And the muffler? It's been a long time.

 

Yeah I know all this stuff has been discussed he probably a million times and I'm sure there are tuns of threads on this. And I'm sure someone will suggest sifting through pages and pages of threads to find what I'm looking for. And it may come down to that. Figured I'd try the short cut first.

 

Thanks, Mike

 

 

 

 

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Since there have been only minor changes to the WR250R since '08, the mods you did back then will work pretty much the same now.

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Picking up my new bike on Thursday. I used to have a 2008 WRR many bikes ago. Life has come full circle and I'm getting another. Walked into the dealer the other day for some parts and there was a 2013 leftover that he made me a good deal on.

 

I remember removing lots of useless stuff off the 2008. Wondering what things are you guys removing without any problems. I don't plan on getting a pipe or a programmer. Wanting to keep it pretty basic. I remember opening up the air box somehow??? And the muffler? It's been a long time.

 

Yeah I know all this stuff has been discussed he probably a million times and I'm sure there are tuns of threads on this. And I'm sure someone will suggest sifting through pages and pages of threads to find what I'm looking for. And it may come down to that. Figured I'd try the short cut first.

 

Thanks, Mike

If you do the airbox mods, you need a programmer. Anytime you have more airflow to the engine, you should increase fueling to avoid running a lean condition which is bad for the life of the engine. If you don't want to get a power commander, just leave it stock! Changing the gearing down from 13/43 to 13/48 will give her a bit more kick. If you get the programmer, starting ripping all the bullshit off: AIS, flapper mod, Cali fuel evap canister (if you live in California), get a FMF slip on and ditch the servo motor, taillight assembly is best swapped for the DRC edge tail light. There's no point in tuning the engine if you aren't going about it properly, either leave it stock or get a power commander and let the mods rain.

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Since there have been only minor changes to the WR250R since '08, the mods you did back then will work pretty much the same now.

Just out of curiosity, what changes have been made?

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If you do the airbox mods, you need a programmer. Anytime you have more airflow to the engine, you should increase fueling to avoid running a lean condition which is bad for the life of the engine. If you don't want to get a power commander, just leave it stock! Changing the gearing down from 13/43 to 13/48 will give her a bit more kick. If you get the programmer, starting ripping all the bullshit off: AIS, flapper mod, Cali fuel evap canister (if you live in California), get a FMF slip on and ditch the servo motor, taillight assembly is best swapped for the DRC edge tail light. There's no point in tuning the engine if you aren't going about it properly, either leave it stock or get a power commander and let the mods rain.

Hmmmm, on my 08 I opened up the air box and opened up the stock pipe and never had a programmer. Put almost 5k miles on it without any problems. Even raced two enduros with that bike, before getting a Husky TE250.

 

Anyone help out with where to get an AIS removal kiit?

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The bike will survive without a fuel programmer, but throttle response and seat-of-the-pants oomph is better with one.

 

I rode my 2008 WR-250R back-to-back both with and without my programmer hooked-up, and with it was much better.

In fact, during the ride without it hooked-up, I couldn't wait to get it hooked back up.

 

All WR-250R model years are the same machine.

Those part number changed occur often with Yamaha motorcycles no matter the model or model year.

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Hmmmm, on my 08 I opened up the air box and opened up the stock pipe and never had a programmer. Put almost 5k miles on it without any problems. Even raced two enduros with that bike, before getting a Husky TE250.

Anyone help out with where to get an AIS removal kiit?

Well then, do as you wish. It's your money and your bike. You can get the AIS removal kit from wheeling cycle supply. Edited by EvanNaculum

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Well I took a ride over to the shop today - my simple free mods be damned... Here's what's on the way. AIS removal kit, FMF Q4 slip on, FMF programmer and a Exup servo plug.

 

Is there a favorate tune for this set up?

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Is it better to wait till after the break-in to put the goodies on?

 

Thinking that maybe I should have got the FMF header to go with the set-up. Is the power bomb header worth it, or just run the stock?

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Hmmmm, on my 08 I opened up the air box and opened up the stock pipe and never had a programmer. Put almost 5k miles on it without any problems. Even raced two enduros with that bike, before getting a Husky TE250.

 

Anyone help out with where to get an AIS removal kiit?

AIS removal kit order button is at the bottom of the 'removal instructions.'  It cost $20 and I got mine fast!

http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/air-intake/72-aisrem

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Is it better to wait till after the break-in to put the goodies on?

Thinking that maybe I should have got the FMF header to go with the set-up. Is the power bomb header worth it, or just run the stock?

I'm running the mega bomb on my X, I really like it. Not a huge difference over stock, but defenetly no regrets. I just took off the airbox door yesterday and so far that was the cheapest, most mind blowing mod I have done yet. If you take a look at how the door is held in place, it's just two pins fastened with two clips, removal takes about a minute, and if you don't like it, re-installation takes about 2 minutes. Heads up, removing the airbox door makes it LOUD! Also will be more susceptible to dirt and water, so keep that air filter clean and avoid river crossing/heavy rain riding.

Have you researched the onboard C1 settings? That has helped out greatly as well, even with the programmer. I noticed no matter what map I run on my power commander, the bike was struggling under 1/8 throttle; there seemed to be a really bad flat spot right when taking off. The C1 setting is simply just like the pilot circuit adjustment screw you have on a carbureted bike. Mine was at -1, I bumped it up to +3 and really liked the results, but there was still a slight flat spot, now I'm up to +6 and I think it's perfect. She's much happier cruising around town and pulling away quickly from a stop without hesitation.

I think modding the bike in most of these ways will void your warranty if you have one, so that is most likely the biggest downside to modding a brand new bike.

Edited by EvanNaculum

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