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Is it not possible to convert a 02 yz to a wr and run lights?

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theres plenty of threads on wr to yz conversion but none I can find for yz to wr, ill be doing the trans swap in my yz pretty soon but it seems like I could just swap my left side yz case with a wr left side while im there so I can run a wr stator and flywheel to hook up a head light since the 01 02 yz and wr have the same engine just different trans and tuning.  Does this sound like a possibility to any of you Yamaha gurus? I would really love to have this confirmed. thanks.

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I would love to start with a wr if i had the money, but I got the yz cheap and rebuilt it with hot rod crank. I cant believe its so hard to get a headlight to work on a yzf.

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You're pretty much done, if you already bought the hot rods crank. A YZ crank won't fit the WR rotor. Like William said, you have to buy that stuff. I have good cases crank (used), and stator, if you're interested, but then you're getting into some money and time.

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Because im not a mx rider William, im a street/trail rider that jus wants a head light on a yzf, is that too hard to comprehend? if I had unlimited resources I would have a WR but that's not the case, so I was jus fishin for ideas that aren't to expensive if you must know. Thanks for the offer and info Toby.

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What you want to do is easy...and does not require all of the parts people are listing but it will require a few mods and some simple fabrication. 

 

I am running a 2002 WR250F tranny and 2001 WR250F stator in my dualsport 2010 YZ250F with dual HID lights for two years now!!   No cases needed, no CDI changed, no crank changed, no wire harness changed. 

 

1) Transmission is a direct swap just swap in the complete shafts and gears to be easy.  Drum and forks are the same. 

 

2) Stator is more involved but possible.

   a)  2001-2002 Stator and flywheel are needed

   b  )  Stator must have the ground floated.  I forget the actual instructions and wires but I can send to.  Going from memory so verify before you cut -  Pink wire coming out of the tan stator coil is cut at the coil . The solder lug ground on one of the stator coils is undone and attached to the now free pink wire. So the pink wire is cut and added to the unsoldered copper coil wire. Epoxy added to hold it still and from hitting metal to short out.  cut pink wire right before it goes into the wire harness connector leaving 2 to thee inches coming out of the plug. The short end left coming out of the plug will now be grounded to the chassis.  The pink wire going to the stator that you just soldered to the copper wire will now go to you regulator along with the already present yellow wire. This will give you a pink wire and yellow for AC power to a AC / DC regulator. Think of them as both yellow during hook up...direction to regulator does not matter.  And 130 watts :)  

        

   c) Flywheel needs a slight hole size increase to fit some year YZ250f cranks ( i forget the years so try it first ).  Basically the YZ250f cranks have larger flywheel nut threads 10mm vs 12mm or something .  So find a friend with a lathe, chuck up the flywheel and drill the flywheel hole larger at the nut side.  This will not affect the taper...the taper is the same 

d) Flywheel will go on now but most likely stand off the crank 1~2mm more then a WR250f so a simple spacer between the ignition cover and case needs to be fabricated.  A jig saw and 1mm flat piece of aluminum should get it done.  Just trace a gasket.  

e) woodruff key may need to be ground down some to allow full seating of the flywheel

f) nut will only thread on half way...use extreme loctite or bearing retainer.  Mine has never come off and I ran the 500 mile LAB2V with it.  

g) you need to buy a regulator to hook to your new yellow wires

h) you need a battery to hook to your regulator.  I used a shorai zip tied to bottom of my seat above the filter. 

i) run all electronics and lights from the battery as you now have DC voltage bike which is good as you can now run LEDs and HIDs.  I am running two HIDs, LED turn signals and brake lights, 5V USB connection for Gopro charging , custom powered roll chart and Garmin GPS off of this setup.  The 12V system also allows me to carry a 12V compressor for multiple flats.  

l) If you have a yz with the cut out or the oil level sight glass the ignition cover will not work and you will need an older 2001 or something cover.  I dont think this was and issue until 2007 or later. 

m) later YZFs will not plug into the 2001 stator as they changed connectors..you can either change the plug or just dremel out the little walls inside the plug.  

 

I think thats all... 

 

Gears are about 100 on ebay 

Stators and flywheels are hard to find used - buying new will set you back about 300~400. 

new battery ~100

reglator ~ 40

Edited by lotus241
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Oh Ok thanks a lot, i knew there had to be a way, that does sound a bit involved tho, but i think i can handle it if i can find a stator and flywheel, like you said there very hard to find used, and theres none on ebay. And yes if you have some kind of instructions you could send to me that would be awesome, im not really lookin to use this bike as my daily driver but if i had a headlight and brake light and WR transmission im thinkin i could cruise at 55 or 60 for a few miles here and there to find a good trail without being hassled by these 'bama police, thats my goal anyway. Thanks alot for your help Lotus.

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Lotus- Great information!

Rolltide- I get what you are trying to do- just motor down the highway a few miles and not get tagged. What some ppl are probably missing here, is that not all states have the same registration laws. Some states, it's impossible to get a plate on any dirt bike. Other states, it's pretty easy, and I assume AL is easy.

Anyways, if all you need is to go a few miles, how about going with a battery pack? Stash it behind the headlight, etc. The LI batteries are really light and LED bulbs don't take much. The brake light is easy- get a pressure switch on the rear only. The Tusk rear fender with LED bulb is a good choice.

For gear sets, the older WRs have a taller ratio than the newer 07+. For a point of reference, with 13/49 sprockets, my 07 WR will cruise ok at 55, but not a lot more. Myself, I would suggest to get the newer WR ratios.

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So your saying a 08+ gearset will cruise better than your '07? cuz 13/49 sprockets is what i run as well, i would like to have whichever year WR gearset that will allow me to cruise around like i was saying and not put too much strain on the motor

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Shouldn't be hard at all to swap 2002 YZ-250F parts with 2002 WR-250F parts because back then, the YZ and WR were much closer to the same bike than later model years, and 2002 YZ-250Fs and 2002 WR-250Fs share the same crankcases and crankshaft.

In 2002, both bikes were kickstart-only, and it was with the addition of electric start in 2003 that got the WR-250F it's own crankshaft, crankcase, etc.

 

This is also true and my experience:

I own a 2002 WR-250F, and in the past owned a 2009 WR-250F.

Both bikes get/got a LOT of weekend trail riding on my local state forest trail loop (legal and legit as long as your bike is street registered).

This trail loop is about 60 miles in total and uses portions of dirt and paved public roads to connect all of the trails together into that loop, so I have a fair bit of road experience with both of my bikes.

 

My point:

Neither model year is great on the road.

They have 5-speed trannies (not 6-speeds), come geared well for trail riding, but aren't capable of going faster than 45mph without starting to get the feeling that you're winding the piss out of it.

For nothing.

You can gear it up with a smaller rear or larger front sprocket, but that will raise the overall gearing and increase the gap from gear to gear - a compromise.

 

So, not saying to abandon your project, but just want to give you my experiences so you can prepare yourself with the info.

Just getting from point A to point B like I do?

Fine.

Just don't expect great street performance while cruising.

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Thanks for the info, and i wasnt really expecting to make a real street bike outta my 250f as a matter of fact im not even concerned with blinkers or a tag, i live in a small rural town in north east alabama and i know most of the police round here and have been stopped more than once on my bike how it is now in pure yz form and they havnt really kicked up a big fuss, they mainly just said "If you dont put on a f****n helmet your gonna die" lol, and i do have a helmet now. My 250f runs great i mainly jus want the wr tranny for trails and a headlight for late afternoon/dusk situations. Thanks for everyones input.

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Rolltide,

Can I offer another alternative, just an idea:

Why not put the bike in great running and cosmetic condition, and sell it with the goal of finding a WR?  I rebuilt and sold my son's YZ last spring after I rebuilt it.

 

I tried to do what you're thread discusses, and didn't do the light conversion.  Oh I bought an aftermarket lighting coil, but mine didn't work so well and shorted out after a couple of miles.  The company would not take it back, and so I ended up just running the stock coil without lights.  The WR tranny works great in a YZ, the bike is light weight, and a pleasure to ride.

 

Good luck, hope it works out for you.

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If you want working lights just to look legal then a battery from emergency lighting will work. I run a gel cell that is about 2"x1.75"x4" in my YZ airbox. This battery will drive a tusk taillight all day and only require 10 minutes to charge up at the end of he day. You need to run LED for booth the headlight and taillight. The battery cost about $16.00 gotten on line from a battery supplier,I use a battery tender to charge it. I make my own brake switch with a magnet and a reed switch about $9.00, I do not like the after market pressure switches. I use Radio Shack switche to turn my lights on and off. The whole setup with headlights taillight switches and battery should cost a little over $ 100.00. You may have to creative for the headlight bulb, a 12 volt LED bulb from Home Depot.

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My only concern with doin that Ron is that i know every nut and bolt on my bike and i know how its been taken care of and rebuilt and im kinda sentamentally attached to it i guess, cuz this is the first modern 250f ive ever owned and ive made alot of mistakes with it and learned alot as well, i plan on keeping this bike for the rest of my life and giving it to my son one day (who is 2 right now) im probably jus gonna get a wr headlight and tranny and run a small battery like ROCKYRACER said. thanks once again everyone

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i have no idea why my words look like this now. Rocky can you tell me what website you got your battery from theres a lot of options on google?

As far as this goes, it's a side effect of how this forum works:

When you start to type the words to your reply, if your cursor happens to be positioned over one of the buttons just above (Bold; Italic; Underline; Strike Through), that's what you get when you start typing.

You turn that off by clicking the button.

 

I first noticed this about a year ago.

Improvements. ;)

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Here is a link where I added lights to mine. Pretty much just adds some pictures to the above comments. I didn't float the pink wire. I used the WR cdi and the YZF coil. Also no rectifier - just a voltage regulator. I'm pretty much like you - mine is plated and I just need to look legal if I'm seen between trails. Clay

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1016325-lighting-my-yz/?fromsearch=1

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