What year to buy?

[MountainBum]

So I never fixed my 02' yz250f from last season as it ended up being a seized crank bearing. Everything total I couldn't justify putting $1200 or so into a 14 year old bike I paid $1300 for 3 years ago so it's gonna sit on the shelf in pieces for now.

I was going to buy a brand new 13' 250f but waited to long and I can't find one in the Portland Oregon area now. They were listed around $5400 and I can't justify spending $7k on a 14' for what I ride and my abilities.

So I've been searching CL for used 11's and 12's, and KBB lists them at $3900 and $4300 for my area. My goal is just to find the best deal on the lowest hour bike right now. I don't want anything to old as I never treat myself to nice stuff being a single dad with 3 kids......

I'm looking for opinions on the best year I should be looking at in the 10' to 12' range and maybe some fair prices you guys can suggest I should be spending on each. Thanks

[Hans Schmid]

12 got some refinements that really woke the bike up vs 2010/2011. The 10/11s were good bikes but really only had bottom-end power and wouldn't rev very far....

Any clean bike in those years is going to be awesome so I wouldn't hesitate on another one...

[MountainBum]

Thanks for the reply, that helps with my decision and budget for sure.

 

How "reliable" are hour meters from people you dont know on CL? I didnt have one on my bike, is there any way to confirm they are true to what they say? I found a 2012 with 37 hours on it asking $4300 which I dont think I would pay quite that much for it.

[David Lee]

I don't think you can trust that.  Who knows when it was installed/replaced.  Meters are nice for scheduled maintenance but if you aren't the one who installed it, total hours are meaningless. 

[ah665]

The 10-13 are awesome bikes, they just need a little bit of love to rip like some of the other new bikes. Obviously, like a few have said, the '12-13 have some nice upgrades over the 10-11. If you can find one, those would be a slightly better buy. Do not hesitate if you find a good deal on a 10-11 though. A MT Air4orce (with short stack) helps get back some top end, along with an aftermarket silencer. I dropped a tooth in the rear, from stock, also.If you get a 12-13, you probably won't need to do the gearing change. 

[Rockyracer]

You have not told us what you are going to use the bike for trail riding or motocross.  I have a 2010 that I use for endures and it is great, I have a 2012 waiting to replace the 2010, booth I bought used with no more than 10 hours on each.   Which ever year you buy  10. 11,12, 13 buy the one with the least hours.  Main difference between 12 and 10,11 is a stronger frame around the swingarm piviot.

[Hans Schmid]

You have not told us what you are going to use the bike for trail riding or motocross. I have a 2010 that I use for endures and it is great, I have a 2012 waiting to replace the 2010, booth I bought used with no more than 10 hours on each. Which ever year you buy 10. 11,12, 13 buy the one with the least hours. Main difference between 12 and 10,11 is a stronger frame around the swingarm piviot.

Different piston on 12/13 which made quite of bit of power difference too...

[ah665]

Well the frame is different but at the same time I have never heard of anyone saying that the 10-11 frame was too flexy or unreliable. I personally think the frame difference was not a big deal at all. As Monk said, the piston was changed, as well as the carb. The 12-13 has a bit more pull in the upper rpms, which I think is more noticeable than the frame. Also, a lot of what I think people think are improvements in how the 12 frame feels over the 10 are not so much the frame, as much as the fork spring rate / set-up. The 10-11 suspension is a bit off and kinda weird. I had my suspension guy mess with mine for awhile to get it to where I liked it, before completely getting everything done. I think the 12-13 is a better starting point but if you plan on getting your suspension set-up or modded professionally by a good shop, then you can get the 10-11 set up just as good as the 12+, it just takes more effort. 

[MountainBum]

Appreciate all the advice, I ride 50/50 track and woods but prefer the yz over the wr when I rode one. Some single track but the woods i ride are not that technical. Well both bikes I found already fell through, one the guys name wasnt on the title (fishy) and the other guy wont respond. Ive ridden a 11' 450 Kawi and 450 12' Honda and really didnt like the feel of either and felt I didnt need that much power for how my experience level hence wanting to stick with my 250. People keep recomending I go with a KTM 350sfx but I have never ridden one so idk.

 

I have seen some real clean 2008 bikes out there, i hate to go to old but if I found a decent 08' or 09' whats your guys thoughts on that? Its such a gamble hence why I wanted a new 13'.

[MartyMOOSE]

Buy a 14 on run out and just be done with it 

[ah665]

The 14 is not a bad option but he said in the OP that he wasn't looking to spend 7k on a new bike.

 

Basically just look for any 10+ that is in great shape and you can't lose. You asked about the 06-09 gen. I think they are solid bikes and the engines are on par with the 10s. I personally just didn't love the handling and overall feel of those bikes. But I still see many at the tracks flying around and many people love them. 

[YamaLink]

Apologies in advance if this is getting off the OP's original question, but since he mentioned 450s and a KTM 350 and even enjoying the YZ....how about a 2006 or newer YZ250 two stroke for the track + trail use? It'd definitely fit the very important price point.

[levi534]

if you can find an 09 in good shape. good reliable bike also very versitile if you do track and trail riding

[MountainBum]

Hey guys I appreciate all the help and replies. I ended up picking a up a really clean 09' YZ250F. Buying used its always a gamble but I think i did good, got this from an older gentleman who was the 2nd owner and was a hurt a few times only coming from a street bike background and didnt want anything to do with dirt bikes anymore. I researched pretty good what to look for checking the bike over and its a great bike as far as I know. Its starting first kick hot and cold every kick, very little wear on everything I checked out. He through in the hitch carrier (no more trailering on daytrips), Yammy service manual and all fluids about $400 in extras. I paid $3000 even for it and I am super stoked for my purchase! Gonna read through the manual tonight like a dork and tune her up tomorrow, riding saturday cant wait!

 

Sorry but I gotta throw the oil question in here......he was running GN4, i think ill switch to a good synthetic as I was running Rotella T in my 02' thoughts? I only run Mobil 1 Fully Synth in my truck so why not spend the $$$ on the bike too....

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 22, 2014 by MountainBum

[levi534]

looks like my bike i have the white edition also. for oil i have had good luck using klotz mx4. try to avoid full synthetics for cars like mobile 1. They are good oils but they were not designed for use with a clutch and you will find your clutch to slip alot. I would stick with full synthetic oils like klotz, maxima, or other name brand motorcycle oils. your bike looks really clean take care of it and it will last a long time.

[MountainBum]

So I am a bit disappointed but after a little bit of riding its been backfiring a bit on deceleration and it feels to mis a bit when first getting on it.  After a bit of research it looks super common with these bikes so I assume its only a jetting issue running to lean, either that or an exhaust leak but everything looks good so far to me. Everything looked super clean during my first oil/filter change (nothing in the frame screen), and its starting first kick hot and cold no matter what so I doubt its tight valves but ill check the clearance next weekend.

 

Im gonna swap out the pilot screw tomorrow when the shop is open so I can adjust when needed with the knob,and start witht he factory setting. I had to drive 150 miles one way for the bike so i am unsure of the jetting or riding elevation he did or the previous owner. Everything else is perfect on this bike so far!

 

Levi im just gonna run this GN4 out then go to the yamalube non synth or something comparable, thanks.

Edited August 25, 2014 by MountainBum

[ah665]

Looks super clean. The jetting issue seems simple enough. Keep us updated. Enjoy the new bike.

[YZCas27]

Hey guys I appreciate all the help and replies. I ended up picking a up a really clean 09' YZ250F. Buying used its always a gamble but I think i did good, got this from an older gentleman who was the 2nd owner and was a hurt a few times only coming from a street bike background and didnt want anything to do with dirt bikes anymore. I researched pretty good what to look for checking the bike over and its a great bike as far as I know. Its starting first kick hot and cold every kick, very little wear on everything I checked out. He through in the hitch carrier (no more trailering on daytrips), Yammy service manual and all fluids about $400 in extras. I paid $3000 even for it and I am super stoked for my purchase! Gonna read through the manual tonight like a dork and tune her up tomorrow, riding saturday cant wait!

Sorry but I gotta throw the oil question in here......he was running GN4, i think ill switch to a good synthetic as I was running Rotella T in my 02' thoughts? I only run Mobil 1 Fully Synth in my truck so why not spend the $$$ on the bike too....

thats a nice looking bike.