Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Electrical problem.. Stator/Rectifier?

Recommended Posts

I just bought a 2000 DRZ S. It was fine for a day then day two in the morning it struggled to turn over then next time I tried to start it was totally dead. Bump started and rode home, on the way lost all lights and instruments and it starts acting weird not accelerating right.

I read the FAQ and watched some videos but I don't know much about electrics.

So I tested the reg/rectifier and I get 0 when I'm meant to and between 640 and 642 on the other side ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1408090558.876704.jpg that's on the 2K setting (only one I have) with the arrow that merges into a + sign ->+ kind of like that.

If I test the battery it's getting nothing from the bike. I charged it to full overnight and it just drops. My charger rates the battery as strong so I don't think it's the issue.

My stator I didn't understand the test but if I test with my multimeter on the beep setting all the connectors go to ground (it beeps) if I test it on the "ohms 200" setting it usually settles at about 5 but if I touch the two multimeter bits together I get 4 so I imagine it's actually 1? ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1408090848.644693.jpg

With the bike running and multimeter in volts setting I get nothing (0 volts) from the stator.

Does this mean much to anyone about what he problem could be? I'm thinking stator because of the ground and volts and the reg/rec seems good, right? Is there another test I should do?

If it is the stator I'm seeing prices from $43 right up to like $300. Is it a you get what you pay for kind of thing or are some of them just overpriced? I don't plan on running a ton of accessories, more likely to cut some stuff out.

With the stator plugged in to the reg/rec I get 3v from the wires out of the reg/rec that go to he battery. So that sounds pretty bad.

On the battery I get 14.2v as it's fully charged I start and it drops then slowly climbs back up to around the same amount. No difference if I rev doesn't go up or down.

Many thanks.

Edited by jim87

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just bought a 2000 DRZ S. It was fine for a day then day two in the morning it struggled to turn over then next time I tried to start it was totally dead. Bump started and rode home, on the way lost all lights and instruments and it starts acting weird not accelerating right.

I read the FAQ and watched some videos but I don't know much about electrics.

So I tested the reg/rectifier and I get 0 when I'm meant to and between 640 and 642 on the other side attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1408090558.876704.jpg that's on the 2K setting (only one I have) with the arrow that merges into a + sign ->+ kind of like that.

If I test the battery it's getting nothing from the bike. I charged it to full overnight and it just drops. My charger rates the battery as strong so I don't think it's the issue.

My stator I didn't understand the test but if I test with my multimeter on the beep setting all the connectors go to ground (it beeps) if I test it on the "ohms 200" setting it usually settles at about 5 but if I touch the two multimeter bits together I get 4 so I imagine it's actually 1? attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1408090848.644693.jpg

With the bike running and multimeter in volts setting I get nothing (0 volts) from the stator.

Does this mean much to anyone about what he problem could be? I'm thinking stator because of the ground and volts and the reg/rec seems good, right? Is there another test I should do?

If it is the stator I'm seeing prices from $43 right up to like $300. Is it a you get what you pay for kind of thing or are some of them just overpriced? I don't plan on running a ton of accessories, more likely to cut some stuff out.

With the stator plugged in to the reg/rec I get 3v from the wires out of the reg/rec that go to he battery. So that sounds pretty bad.

On the battery I get 14.2v as it's fully charged I start and it drops then slowly climbs back up to around the same amount. No difference if I rev doesn't go up or down.

Many thanks.

 

Sounds like your stator is toast. When you pull hte side case cover, look for the hidden bolt in the starter nose, it's covered in oil. Be careful you don't break the case removing it, the stator pulls (magnetic) heavily against the flywheel. The gasket is reusable. 

 

 

i've had some history with DRZ stators. 5 of them. 1st one was oem, and lasted approximately 8,000 miles. three others were RickyStator. they lasted from two weeks to a year. Gave up on RS and use CustomRewind, because they were local, and a friend suggested them. That was 1 1/2 years ago, with zero issues. I'm going to recommend CustomRewind (birmingham, al) until someone has a bad experience, since they are fast, cheap ($80), and have other UJM stators/gen's/rect/stuff on the shelf from the 70's to today. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, I'll check them out. My bikes got 40,000 so not bad I guess. Hopefully theyll ship over here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites





So I tested the reg/rectifier and I get 0 when I'm meant to and between 640 and 642 on the other sidethat's on the 2K setting (only one I have) with the arrow that merges into a + sign ->+ kind of like that.-----I am not understanding your test results here at all.  I really prefer you do the functional test with a battery and light bulb.

If I test the battery it's getting nothing from the bike.------Here you say the electrical system is not charging the battery, right? 

 

I charged it to full overnight and it just drops.------What do you mean, "it just drops", The battery will not hold a charge?

 

My charger rates the battery as strong so I don't think it's the issue---This statement seems to conflict with the last statement.

.
 I didn't understand the test but if I test with my multimeter on the beep setting all the connectors go to ground (it beeps)------Well if I understand this correctly, when you test the 3 yellow stator wires (not the RR wires) they connect to ground.  This confirms a bad stator.

 

If I test it----What is "it"?  Yellow to yellow or yellow to ground?  Yellow to yellow, 1 ohm is about right.  Yellow to ground, 1 ohm id bad.

 
With the bike runningicon1.png and multimeter in volts setting I get nothing (0 volts) from the stator.----This probably means you tested it incorrectly.  Meter needs to be on AC volts 200 volt scale.  Are you sure you were on the stator leads and not the RR leads?

I'm thinking stator because of the ground and volts and the reg/rec seems good, right?------Commonly the stator is bad and the RR is good.

 

Is there another test I should do?------You should re-do all the tests with some help with a friend more familiar with the test meter.

With the stator plugged in to the reg/rec I get 3v from the wires out of the reg/rec that go to he battery.----Invalid test.  The RR needs to be connected to the battery to test voltage.


On the battery I get 14.2v as it's fully charged.-----This conflicts with everything you said above.  14 to 14.5 volts at the battery with the motor running is is good.  Is this with the lights on or off?  A weak stator can charge a battery if there is very little load on the system like ignition and taillight only.

 

Sorry to be co critical here.  I suspect your stator is bad but the information you provide in your post is vey hard to decipher.  I think it would be wise to retest everything with some help with the testing.

 

(not sure why this reply is right hand indexed??)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

So I tested the reg/rectifier and I get 0 when I'm meant to and between 640 and 642 on the other sidethat's on the 2K setting (only one I have) with the arrow that merges into a + sign ->+ kind of like that.-----I am not understanding your test results here at all.  I really prefer you do the functional test with a battery and light bulb.

 

Here, I put the multimeter to Ohms, and I put the negative prong from the multimeter onto the negative wire then the positive onto one of the yellow wires and I get between 640 and 642 then running the other way, I get nothing, which as I read it seems like its right. I'll do the other test if that's still unclear.

If I test the battery it's getting nothing from the bike.------Here you say the electrical system is not charging the battery, right? 

 

Yeah, the electrical system isn't charging the battery.  At least, I get no jump in volts when I rev and the battery slowly loses volts.

 

I charged it to full overnight and it just drops.------What do you mean, "it just drops", The battery will not hold a charge?

 

No the battery holds a charge fine, it's when I use the bike the volts just drop and keep going till the starter wont work.

 

My charger rates the battery as strong so I don't think it's the issue---This statement seems to conflict with the last statement.

 

I didn't understand the test but if I test with my multimeter on the beep setting all the connectors go to ground (it beeps)------Well if I understand this correctly, when you test the 3 yellow stator wires (not the RR wires) they connect to ground.  This confirms a bad stator.

 

Yeah in the continuity mode, I put one prong from the Multimeter on the yellow stator wires and one to ground and it beeps (on all three), meaning the stator is going to ground right?

 

If I test it----What is "it"?  Yellow to yellow or yellow to ground?  Yellow to yellow, 1 ohm is about right.  Yellow to ground, 1 ohm id bad.

 

Yellow to yellow. So good news.

 

With the bike runningicon1.png and multimeter in volts setting I get nothing (0 volts) from the stator.----This probably means you tested it incorrectly.  Meter needs to be on AC volts 200 volt scale.  Are you sure you were on the stator leads and not the RR leads?

 

I'm pretty sure I had it on DC. I'll do that again.

 

I'm thinking stator because of the ground and volts and the reg/rec seems good, right?------Commonly the stator is bad and the RR is good.

 

Is there another test I should do?------You should re-do all the tests with some help with a friend more familiar with the test meter.

 

I'm the only person I know who can even turn it on. I could take it a mechanic but it'd probably be cheaper to buy a new stator and reg/rec and just fit them. I'll redo the tests and read up some more. I wired a full new loom on my old bike l don't mind wires, soldering and stuff I just don't quite get all the multimeter stuff yet, I like the beep for continuity setting but the rest I'm in the dark on.

With the stator plugged in to the reg/rec I get 3v from the wires out of the reg/rec that go to he battery.----Invalid test.  The RR needs to be connected to the battery to test voltage.

On the battery I get 14.2v as it's fully charged.-----This conflicts with everything you said above.  14 to 14.5 volts at the battery with the motor running is is good.  Is this with the lights on or off?  A weak stator can charge a battery if there is very little load on the system like ignition and taillight only.

 

That was when I'd charged the battery full with my charger fresh then put it on the bike. I'm not running the speedo, only the light panel and tail light. Headlight off.

 

Sorry to be co critical here.  I suspect your stator is bad but the information you provide in your post is vey hard to decipher.  I think it would be wise to retest everything with some help with the testing.

 

No worries thanks for taking the time.

 

(not sure why this reply is right hand indexed??)

 

that I can fix!

 

 

 

Hey,

 

Sorry yeah that was kind of incomprehensible when you put it like that. I'm gonna answer in the quote because it's easier.

Edited by jim87

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Here, I put the multimeter to Ohms, and I put the negative prong from the multimeter onto the negative wire then the positive onto one of the yellow wires and I get between 640 and 642 then running the other way, I get nothing, which as I read it seems like its right. I'll do the other test if that's still unclear.------You have to use a diode test scale to test the diodes in the rectifier.  The light bulb test is better,  the bulb either lights or it doesn't.  Very positive results.

 

Yeah, the electrical system isn't charging the battery.  At least, I get no jump in volts when I rev and the battery slowly loses volts.------OK, I see

 

No the battery holds a charge fine, it's when I use the bike the volts just drop and keep going till the starter wont work.------OK, I see

 

Yeah in the continuity mode, I put one prong from the Multimeter on the yellow stator wires and one to ground and it beeps (on all three), meaning the stator is going to ground right?--------Yes.  This is a very positive test of a bad stator.  All 3 yellow wires are internally connected so it is normal and expected that if 1 is grounded all are grounded.

 

Yellow to yellow. So good news.-------It just prove no broken wires.

 

I'm pretty sure I had it on DC. I'll do that again.--------Exact results are pretty irreverent at this point but you never get nothing.  Yellow to yellow or yellow to ground (with a grounded stator) you will get some AC reading.  Maybe 15 volts or so.

 

I'm the only person I know who can even turn it on. I could take it a mechanic but it'd probably be cheaper to buy a new stator and reg/rec and just fiticon1.png them. I'll redo the tests and read up some more. I wired a full new loom on my old bike l don't mind wires, soldering and stuff I just don't quite get all the multimeter stuff yet, I like the beep for continuity setting but the rest I'm in the dark on.--------You are doing fine and the above answers clarify your results.  Pretty clear  the stator is bad. One thing about test meters is to have to set to the correct scale.  For example on the 2 volt DC scale it will not read a 12 volt battery.  And on a the 200 volt scale actual volts under 1 volt will probably not read and any reading is meaningless.  So you kind of have to guess the scale you need or try different scales.

 

That was when I'd charged the battery full with my charger fresh then put it on the bike. I'm not running the speedo, only the light panel and tail light. Headlight off.------OK yes with the headlight off even a weak electrical system can charge a battery.  Depending on how bad the stator is it might take a long time for the system to charge a battery.  I just went thru this myself.  Thanks for following up and answering my questions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I did the bulb test on the rectifier and here's what I did to check it's right.

Took a battery and put a wire coming off positive and a wire coming off negative.

Put a bulb (a tiny motorcycle bulb) in line in the positive wire.

So now I connect the neg and positive wires and the bulb lights.

Now I put the positive wire to the black rectifier wire and touch the negative wire to one of the yellows, bulb lights on all three. Then I reverse and put the negative wire to the black wire on the rectifier and touch the positive to the yellows and get nothing. Then if I reverse the wires negative to red and touch yellow - light comes on. Positive to red and touch yellow, nothing. Hope that is clear. That means it's good, at least the rectifier part right? Electricity only flows one direction.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Much thanks for your help Noble. I have ordered a new stator already, hopefully drz can do with a trickle charge overnight for time being.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Boy, I love a person that can follow instructions.  Yup your rectifier passes.  See why I like the light bulb test.  Simple to do and no question on the results.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

also if your bike shuts off upon disconnecting battery is  another easy way to determine a bad stator..

i just had a 2 bad stators( both used) and there were no fried coils on 1..the other had 1 fried coil

 

p.s this guy made a few videos..how to test wiring on the drz ..but seems like you got that all squared away

https://www.youtube.com/user/Thumpermanchame22/search?query=drz

Edited by 707LAKE
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, I'll hope the regulator is good and just wait on the new stator then, sounds like it's a common problem. I didn't realise the drz could run with the battery disconnected at all so that's interesting to know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So here's my old stator, not that bad right? There was a load of broken up ziptie pieces all in the case as well as various melty bits of whatever. Does that look like a dead stator to everyone ?

Anyway bike runs good with new one.

1409231641089.jpg

1409231651478.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

P.s. that case was a nightmare to get off. I know people say don't pry but I had to pry around where the starter motor is to get it off. Also some genius had snapped one of the bolts and glued the snapped off bit in. Much fun had.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...