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2004 DRZ400s needs help diagnosing.......

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2004 DRZ400s needs help diagnosing.......

This is my first real post asking for help. Hope I put enough info in this post to be as clear as possible.

the bike:

its the faster yellow version

9000miles

second owner, bought it at 1600miles

all locktite fixes done

3x3 airbox

carb rejetted

FMF powerbomb header and Q4 exhaust

use royal purple 10w40 sythetic oil

engine has never been opened up or modified other than the primary nut locktite fix.

Now the issue i can't figure out:

Unloaded the bikes from the truck, warmed them up, drove up the road 10miles to get gas. Paid for the gas and got some breakfast of champions(two snickers bars), hopped on the bike and pushed the magic button......nothing......

There was not clunk, bang or other type of scary noises prior to shutting the bike down. And I've never had any scary noises prior.

Initially thought it might be the battery as I had pushed its limit for life expectancy.

Loaded the bikes back up the truck and went to the pub for lunch.

So I went out the next day and bought a new battery, charged it up, installed it and again nothing.

Drained the oil, nothing in it, no chunks or anything.

Pulled the clutch side cover off thinking my primary nut fix might have fallen off.

Nope, everything looks beautiful in there too.

Pulled the stator cover off, everything in there is perfect looking.

Also able to crank the engine over manually, when in neutral, with my socket on the stator nut. No clunks or weird noises.

Pulled the valve cover off, cause I could. Everything in there is again perfect looking.

Pulled the plug out, looks like a NGK spark plug that is a year old.

When I put the bike on the shop stand and put it in 1st, the rear wheel will not turn over the engine.

When I pull the clutch in, I can turn the rear wheel, but it feels "thick", no oil in the bike.

No clunks or anythings when i do switch gears, all the gears switch with no issues.

Trying to avoid going to the stealership/shop, and I am pretty mechanical, so of course I'm trying to do this myself, if I can.

Any help from you guys will be greatly appreciated!!!

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First of all, the problem sounds electrical.  Not sure why you looked at all the mechanical stuff first. Keep in mind I only know what you have told me here.  There are things that you did not tell that would help.  Such as does the headlight come on with the key? Do you have an electrical test meter to test voltages?

 

I make the assumption the head light will not go on with the key. You turn the key on and you get nothing.  A new battery (fully charged) you still get nothing.  Check the fuse back by the battery.  20 amp blade fuse located just above the battery.  Is the fuse holder OK or all crispy?  Now look for the single pin connector in the red wire between the fuse holder and the battery.  A good chance you will find the problem in 1 of those 3 places.  If not, a volt meter will be very handy to trace out the fault.

 

If the headlight does go on then the fuse is OK and you should look for an interlock problem, clutch switch, side stand, neutral switch etc.

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Bad Fuse would be the first thing to check if everything is dead....

next the side stand cut out switch...

Did you throw a volt meter on the battery before you decided to lash out on a newy.?

Edited by Craig-o
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I did forget to mention a few things.

Headlight turns on, nice and bright.

13.4volts

main fuse/fuse holder is intact not burnt.

battery was 4yrs old and was having some issues repeatedly cranking over when I was offroad and just cruising around.

Starter spins up with the stator cover off, but does not spin the engine when reinstalled.

The starter wants to go, but its like its under some super load.

The safety switch at the kickstand and clutch have both been soldered.

I'm going to double check them when i get home from work.

Thanks for all the help guys.

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OK I understand better now why you started looking for mechanical problems.  I guess you need to determine by feel if the motor is unusually difficult to rotate.  With the stator cover off or the access plug removed, turn the crankshaft forward (CCW as you look at it from the left) with a 17mm socket on the flywheel nut.  Does it turn normal or feel like it is binding up?

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Stator nut turns no prob with the socket driver. No unusual resistance

I just pulled the two connectiions off the rear solenoid, scrubbed them up and sprayed with electrical cleaner,

and reinstalled without electrical grease. They didn't have any grease when I took them apart, so i didn't add any at this point.

Checked the connections on the safety switches, both solid.

As the theme from posts has been electrical, I checked the mount of the starter. Of course it is solid.

Then I checked the connection bolt/nut for the power going to the Starter, it was not tight. So I cranked on it.

Then I pulled the plug and pushed the magic button...............the engine turned over.

Now I have to put coolant, oil and gas back in the beast and see if that was all it was.

The connection for the stator and the two connectors at the rear solenoid, should I put electrical grease on them?????

Will update when I put the gas and oil in, have to get a new clutch side gasket though, ordering tonight.

Thanks everyone for all the assistance.

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Yes, you can use electrical grease where ever you like.

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