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Pipe for 2012 Ktm 300 XC for desert

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A search of TT strangely didn't turn up results,so let me just throw this out to the group...

 A few months ago I moved from Florida to Nevada. I'm running the stock pipe. I was wondering what people are running out here? I don't want to lose low end, but feel racing out here is going to require more on top.

 I should mention I'm running the KTM Powerparts silencer/spark arrestor.

Edited by drtbkjoe

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If you're racin in the dez then my pipe of choice was always a ProCircuit.. Just be ready to replace it every year..  That was my  best choice back when I was runnin in the Dez Nats..

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fatty or PC would both be good.  but i think the SST is the bomb.  only problem is you can't run it with the stock muffler on our bikes. LAME! 

 

have to buy the pipe and muffler.  that is why i will probably go P.C. or fatty for my bike.

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Nevada... ProCircuit II. Gnarly improves low and mid but kills the top end. PCII improves bottom and mid but does not fall off as much on the top end and I believe is the same gauge thickness as the Gnarly. ProCircuit II does a little better job of fit and finish... welds and plating. 

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I've always used FMF but I wanted a change. I just bought a PC platinum II and a 304 silencer for my 14 300 XC and I am pretty excited for it to show up tomorrow. One thing I wanted was the thicker gauge steel but I didn't want a gnarly I wanted more mid and top and just leave the bottom alone which is what in hoping for with this set up. Anyways I'll post a picture when I get it put on

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Lol what? He's riding desert, aka all top end. Gnarly would be a terrible choice imo.

 

 

Last time I checked, Conneticut doesn't have any desert :rolleyes:  

 

I race D37.  Despite desert racing's reputation for being WFO all the time, for d37 at least, that is not the case.  If you are doing a 100 mile H&H for instance, the really fast sections account for maaaaaaybe 15-20% at the most.  The rest of it is pretty technical.  Depending on your size and riding style, a Gnarly might actually be the better choice.  I have two KTM 300's.  One has a fatty and the other has a Gnarly.  I jump from bike to bike without any problems whatsoever.  A Gnarly might give up a little up top....but really, how much are you in the top of the powerband?  It vibrates like crazy wrung out and if you want to go faster just shift up and stay in the meat.  Top speed is 86-87 mph on both my bikes.  That's faster than I need to go.  If you are planning on racing district 37 H&H's and Nationals, you need to be ready for 100 miles of mostly stuff where the last place you want to be is on the gas hard.  Most the time I'm just using the motor to torque my way through everything to save energy.  The fatty is good for me (I weigh ~160 lbs) because it softens the bottom a little.  I don't care about the added power gains up top because I don't really spend any time there.  The gnarly adds a little bump down low but I was honestly surprised how much that it really is only a "seat of the pants difference" between the two. 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ENAdQcQ5E

 

Here's what a typical d37 national Hare and Hound looks like.  Scroll through the video.  It's a lot more tech than wide open :thumbsup:

Edited by Dumb_Fee
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Last time I checked, Conneticut doesn't have any desert :rolleyes:  

 

I race D37.  Despite desert racing's reputation for being WFO all the time, for d37 at least, that is not the case.  If you are doing a 100 mile H&H for instance, the really fast sections account for maaaaaaybe 15-20% at the most.  The rest of it is pretty technical.  Depending on your size and riding style, a Gnarly might actually be the better choice.  I have two KTM 300's.  One has a fatty and the other has a Gnarly.  I jump from bike to bike without any problems whatsoever.  A Gnarly might give up a little up top....but really, how much are you in the top of the powerband?  It vibrates like crazy wrung out and if you want to go faster just shift up and stay in the meat.  Top speed is 86-87 mph on both my bikes.  That's faster than I need to go.  If you are planning on racing district 37 H&H's and Nationals, you need to be ready for 100 miles of mostly stuff where the last place you want to be is on the gas hard.  Most the time I'm just using the motor to torque my way through everything to save energy.  The fatty is good for me (I weigh ~160 lbs) because it softens the bottom a little.  I don't care about the added power gains up top because I don't really spend any time there.  The gnarly adds a little bump down low but I was honestly surprised how much that it really is only a "seat of the pants difference" between the two. 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ENAdQcQ5E

 

Here's what a typical d37 national Hare and Hound looks like.  Scroll through the video.  It's a lot more tech than wide open :thumbsup:

DF, it sounds like you ride like I do. I don't like wringing the bike out, and was just wondering if that's what the racing was like out here. I've ridden a lot around Pahrump, and the terrain is like you describe. My target races are the Mesquite and/or Mercury, Nv races in October.

 Whatever I get I definitely don't want to lose either top or bottom from stock

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You know, while I'm at it, here's a question. Which is a better race bike for out here-2012 KTM 300XC or 2003 525 MXC?

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DF, it sounds like you ride like I do. I don't like wringing the bike out, and was just wondering if that's what the racing was like out here. I've ridden a lot around Pahrump, and the terrain is like you describe. My target races are the Mesquite and/or Mercury, Nv races in October.

 Whatever I get I definitely don't want to lose either top or bottom from stock

 

Haven't raced too much in Nevada.  Don't know a lot about the terrain there.   Power-wise, the stock pipe is pretty friggin' good....too bad its made of tinfoil.  The Fatty takes a little off that bottom-midrange hit and seems to thicken it up a little bit.  Top-end felt the same to me with both pipes.  If you don't want to loose either top or bottom compared to stock, get the FMF fatty and send your head to Slavens (assuming you already have the red pv spring in).  I have my head milled by Slavens on both bikes and its the best $ for $ mod out there.  Crisper throttle respnse, power gains throughout the entire range.  Slavens recommends running the thin base gasket but I think stock thickness is best.  It tends to ping a little bit up top with the thin gasket.  The milled head really boosts the power.  Because of that I reccomend putting in a map switch to tame it down in the nasties.  I would pick your 300 any day of the week over the 525 for racing.  The only time I rev the bike is in deep sandwashes where I go a little past the midrange so I don't fall off the pipe too much when I shift up.  I also will rev the bike if I'm racing moto and want to stretch a gear because I don't have quite enough room to shift up.....but for me, revving the bike is rare.  IMHO, if you are spending a lot of time up top on a 300, you are either a factory rider or you are doing something wrong.  A 300 is all about torquing your way through the nasties and staying in the midrange if you want to go.  Its not meant to be revved 

Edited by Dumb_Fee

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Haven't raced too much in Nevada.  Don't know a lot about the terrain there.   Power-wise, the stock pipe is pretty friggin' good....too bad its made of tinfoil.  The Fatty takes a little off that bottom-midrange hit and seems to thicken it up a little bit.  Top-end felt the same to me with both pipes.  If you don't want to loose either top or bottom compared to stock, get the FMF fatty and send your head to Slavens (assuming you already have the red pv spring in).  I have my head milled by Slavens on both bikes and its the best $ for $ mod out there.  Crisper throttle respnse, power gains throughout the entire range.  Slavens recommends running the thin base gasket but I think stock thickness is best.  It tends to ping a little bit up top with the thin gasket.  The milled head really boosts the power.  Because of that I reccomend putting in a map switch to tame it down in the nasties.  I would pick your 300 any day of the week over the 525 for racing.  The only time I rev the bike is in deep sandwashes where I go a little past the midrange so I don't fall off the pipe too much when I shift up.  I also will rev the bike if I'm racing moto and want to stretch a gear because I don't have quite enough room to shift up.....but for me, revving the bike is rare.  IMHO, if you are spending a lot of time up top on a 300, you are either a factory rider or you are doing something wrong.  A 300 is all about torquing your way through the nasties and staying in the midrange if you want to go.  Its not meant to be revved 

 

Have you ridden a KTM 350 in the nasty stuff?  The rocky part of the hare and hound video looks a lot like where I ride, except I have trees mixed in.  I"m on the fence right now between a 300 and a 350.

Edited by redrider144

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Never ridden a 350 before. Talking to my friends that have, a 300 has a little more grunt down low and the 350 has a little more top. In the end it probably just matters wether or not you are a 2T guy or a 4T guy.

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My bike is a 2003 KTM300 and I have a 2000 125 with a huge selection of pipes.

 

168048_10150137763855803_475778_n.jpg

 

I hate my Gnarly on the 300, even for these Eastern woods. Too much off the top end.

Stock is always a good place to start for quality, fit and well rounded power.

Ride stock first and then see where you need the help.

 

As for cracks, I street ride the 125. On long highway rides I sometimes get stress cracks in the pipe.

It does kill some of the power but I've always been able to do 60mph and get home on a cracked pipe.

Don't fear cracks and dent. You will almost always make it home.

 

One problem with a heavier pipe or a pipe guard is that it transfers the damage from the pipe to the exhaust flange.

 

Steve Best

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Haven't raced too much in Nevada. Don't know a lot about the terrain there. Power-wise, the stock pipe is pretty friggin' good....too bad its made of tinfoil. The Fatty takes a little off that bottom-midrange hit and seems to thicken it up a little bit. Top-end felt the same to me with both pipes. If you don't want to loose either top or bottom compared to stock, get the FMF fatty and send your head to Slavens (assuming you already have the red pv spring in). I have my head milled by Slavens on both bikes and its the best $ for $ mod out there. Crisper throttle respnse, power gains throughout the entire range. Slavens recommends running the thin base gasket but I think stock thickness is best. It tends to ping a little bit up top with the thin gasket. The milled head really boosts the power. Because of that I reccomend putting in a map switch to tame it down in the nasties. I would pick your 300 any day of the week over the 525 for racing. The only time I rev the bike is in deep sandwashes where I go a little past the midrange so I don't fall off the pipe too much when I shift up. I also will rev the bike if I'm racing moto and want to stretch a gear because I don't have quite enough room to shift up.....but for me, revving the bike is rare. IMHO, if you are spending a lot of time up top on a 300, you are either a factory rider or you are doing something wrong. A 300 is all about torquing your way through the nasties and staying in the midrange if you want to go. Its not meant to be revved

DF, we should go riding , we seem to see things the same way.

Something you mentioned was a big help, the power valve spring. You need to keep in mind that in Florida I NEVER used anything but the green spring. I swapped it out before I even rode the bike.

Guess what, it's a bit different out here. So, I tried the red spring and it really livened up the powerband. It's almost perfect for me now. I may gear it a bit taller(currently 13/49), but I'm going to try it as is in a race situation first.

Also, I'd much rather race the 300. I can go faster longer, and I can ride more aggressively ( as my name is NOT Ryan Dungey)

Basically, I'm gradually changing my

impression of the terrain out here. It may seem weird to us out here, but eastern riders ( at least this one) thought of western riding as blasting across dry lake beds and 100 mph fire roads .

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