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looking at a 99 300 exc

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a local shop has a 99 ktm 300 exc that i am fairly interested in. i gave the bike a quick once over a few days ago, the bike looks pretty decent but doesn't have an hour meter. it currently needs a new rear tire as the one on it is dryrotted but has alot of tread. everything else looks good besides the kickstand is broken. any thing in particular that i should look at on this bike other than the normal wear items?

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The kickstands are a weak point. Just for holding the bike up, not you too. Often it is only the $20 bolt that needs replacing, but replace the rubber loop for holding it in the up position also. I have a 2000 125 and a 2003 300. I like these bikes. The 99 probably has the non-inverted shocks? These are awesome smooth and the sliders are better protected. In some respects better shocks than up to 2004. The power is pretty much the same or easily made the same as later models with pipe/carb/head mods. Overall a good bike if the price is right.

10399203_29548085802_496_n.jpg

 

And ten years later:

 

25464_371300850802_1648893_n.jpg

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value should be between $700 and $1200 depending on condition. A compression test is a good idea once you get it home. I have the 250 EXC same year. Love it. I replaced the rear shock with an 2009,

great upgrade.

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Jetting may be off as they were running a NOZ needle, and a 6.0 slide.  its and easy fix with the right brass and a 7.0 slide.

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well i bought it. it runs good. has rad guards, bark busters fmf pipe with carbon fiber guard, carbon fiber front disc guard, rear shark fin, front tire is flat but they gave me a new tube, should be able to get a few rides out of the rear tire. one of the bulbs is burned out in the headlight which i think is an acerbis. should be ready to go once i get some more riding gear as i sold all of mine off a while back like an idiot.

 
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well i bought it. it runs good. has rad guards, bark busters fmf pipe with carbon fiber guard, carbon fiber front disc guard, rear shark fin, front tire is flat but they gave me a new tube, should be able to get a few rides out of the rear tire. one of the bulbs is burned out in the headlight which i think is an acerbis. should be ready to go once i get some more riding gear as i sold all of mine off a while back like an idiot.

 
image_zpsc2f8ae88.jpg

 

Awesome! About the riding gear, it seems to shrink over the years. Mine did! :)

The newer rear shock is a good upgrade but the fronts are a great shock well worth rebuilding even if they wear out. I'd prefer them for endure riding over the 2000-2003 shocks. My headlight mask like that simply had a $5 12v halogen 20W focused beam from the hardware store. One is narrow beam and the other is wide angle. Easy cheap repair but still not the best of light. You only have 40w of power to work with so when you step on the 7w brake light your headlights dim. Switch to LED tail light and you will happier.

 

The disk guard is debatable, the bark busters are the thing ever for woods riding (or any riding!). A pipe guard could be a big help to protect from pipe dents, but collect mud so it should be easily removable for cleaning. Jetting is critical and changes for weather and altitude. The main can be replaced through the big nut/plug on the bottom of the Keihin, no need to remove the bowl. The pilot and needle have a lot more to do with the drivability.

 

Happy trails!

 

Steve Best

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the needle in it is a n85c, haven't opened the carb up to see what the jetting is yet. the tiny bit i've ridden it it doesn't seem to lug down like alot of people talk about and will spin the rear wheel at the crack of the throttle. so seems like i may need to adjust the powervalve a bit to move the hit higher in the rpm band. but going to ride it a bit first and see how it does

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You may find that needle spooges a lot. Then again maybe not. I am running the CEK needle. It cleaned up my jetting and got rid of most of the sponge. Bike looks good. I think you could look at the spring and or adjustment for the power valve to move the hit up if it comes on too low. Then again a 300 has a lot of punch, but you should be able to mellow it out if needed.

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i own/ride a 99 250exc and i love this bike, has great power and it handles great for me too in all the woods terrain that I ride in, and its tough to beat a stock 3.2 gallon gas tank. As eproven mentioned, the jetting is a bit rich with the n-series needle and 6.0 slide and made my bike run a little blubbery down low and spooge alot. I had the same n85c needle as you in the 2nd clip with a 42 pilot and a 170 main and it ran good but was very rich right off idle. I then bought a sudco CEK needle and run it in the 4th clip (from top) and a 45 pilot and 175 main, along with the much needed 7.0 slide. After doing this the bike runs amazingly clean right off the bottom and all the way through the rpm range, with alot less spooge and smoke. along with the jetting and backing the power valve adjuster screw out until its flush with the cases made the bike really rip right off the bottom with a smooth power delivery as well. After a couple adjustments its a fantastic bike! and the 300 should be the same.

btw, according to the manual the 250 and 300 have the same jetting specs, and for my riding right above sea level (maybe 200-500ft.) it runs great and I highly suggest this setup.

Good luck!

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the needle in it is a n85c, haven't opened the carb up to see what the jetting is yet. the tiny bit i've ridden it it doesn't seem to lug down like alot of people talk about and will spin the rear wheel at the crack of the throttle. so seems like i may need to adjust the powervalve a bit to move the hit higher in the rpm band. but going to ride it a bit first and see how it does

The thing about "lugging" a 300 is all about how you do it. The key is to short shift it, that is when the lugging is at it's best. My xc will try to destroy a rear tire if I crack the throttle and I get near any midrange rpms.

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put somewhere between 60-100 miles on the bike on dirt this weekend. didn't have any running issues with them bike at 8500 ft. a little spooge but not bad and no plug fouling. lugged it alot in 2nd gear. and only really used 1st for starting off and a few steep climbs. only went down twice. once stuff the front wheel into a bike rock in a slow steep downhill turn and went over. 2nd time i was on a gravel road at maybe 30 mph, got over on the outside edge in the loose gravel and grabbed too much front brake and it washed out and down i went. damn near went off a steep bank on that one. it does surge slightly around 1/4 throttle when just cruising. but runs great the rest of the time.

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