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1983 XL 200r

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So I pickup up an 83 XL 200r the other night and it's a little rough but I am planning on turning into a cafe racer... Sort of.

Anyways it starts pretty good and runs but not great. I think the timing is off and needs to be advanced but I'm still waiting on a manual to show up. In the mean time I pulled the carb cleaned it and it was pretty clean put in a new plug and plug boot checked the valve clearance and put some fresh gas in it but it still does not run quite right on the top end.

As soon as my manual shows up I am going to check the timing and then the next thing is going to be a compression test and leak down test.

Any common things to check on these bikes I am overlooking?

Does anyone still make exhausts for this bike? Mine has been gutted and well ya it needs a different one.

Where would be the best place to source parts for this bike? Like I think the timing chain is probably ready to be changed but what about a piston and valves too? Are they hard to find?

Anyways thanks guys ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1408506674.616336.jpg

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Considering you have two other Honda XR's in the garage, I'm surprised you think it's a timing issue. 9 times out of ten, Its gonna be a valve or carb issue. The honda 200cc sohc engine is reliable, barely makes enough power to hurt itself, and parts are plentiful. The most common problem is gonna be cam damage from running low/not changing oil.

Edited by ickfinger

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Considering you have two other Honda XR's in the garage, I'm surprised you think it's a timing issue. 9 times out of ten, Its gonna be a valve or carb issue. The honda 200cc sohc engine is reliable, barely makes enough power to hurt itself, and parts are plentiful. The most common problem is gonna be cam damage from running low/not changing oil.

The XL 600 and the XR 50 in the background are my brother in laws and his 5 year old sons bikes. The KTM in the back is mine.

The timing just feels a little off and I'm sure I will have to replace a few things but I am sure it's not a carb problem

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check the fuel petcock. My 2000 XR ran like crap because the reserve was clogged and the filter was missing. Bought new petcock, runs like a top.

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My fuel petcock seems to be working fine but I may have found part of the problem.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1408836696.576569.jpg

The air gap on my pulse generator is way to large. My manual says to be between 0.3-0.4 mm and mine is huge which makes me think I am not getting a good spark at higher rpms where the motor just seems to be gutless. Rocky Mountain lists them for $54 but on back order or takes 3-5 days to ship. Everything else seems to be in pretty good shape.

Also when I check my timing and I take out the top plug of the ignition cover and try to shine my timing light in my bike just sprays oil out which makes me think it has a lot of blow by and needing some new rings and probably a new piston. When you guys check the timing on your bikes do they spray a bunch of oil out the check hole? So I can really see what the timing is because of the oil spray.

Also what jetting are people running? Mine might be a little lean. I am about 4500 feet in south east Idaho between 60-80 degrees.

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My fuel petcock seems to be working fine but I may have found part of the problem.

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1408836696.576569.jpg

The air gap on my pulse generator is way to large. My manual says to be between 0.3-0.4 mm and mine is huge which makes me think I am not getting a good spark at higher rpms where the motor just seems to be gutless. Rocky Mountain lists them for $54 but on back order or takes 3-5 days to ship. Everything else seems to be in pretty good shape.

Also when I check my timing and I take out the top plug of the ignition cover and try to shine my timing light in my bike just sprays oil out which makes me think it has a lot of blow by and needing some new rings and probably a new piston. When you guys check the timing on your bikes do they spray a bunch of oil out the check hole? So I can really see what the timing is because of the oil spray.

Also what jetting are people running? Mine might be a little lean. I am about 4500 feet in south east Idaho between 60-80 degrees.

The air gap is adjustable, I think the spec is 0.012-0.018".

Using a timing light is an exercise in frustration.  I recommend doing static timing check, after re-tensioning the timing chain. 

Several threads on both subjects, check the sticky.

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ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1410198762.092868.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1410198776.694100.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1410198787.761524.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1410198805.462863.jpg

The cylinder and piston look like they are in pretty good shape but I'm going to replace the piston still since I have it this far apart.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1410198903.021574.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1410198910.155436.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1410198916.889355.jpg

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I think you have a well toasted engine.

So if I were to replace the head, cam, valve cover, piston, timing chain do you think I would be ok? There is no up and down play in the crank and very small side to side play or am I missing something?

Also what do you think would of starved the head of oil? A plugged oil passage or something more serious?

Or should I start looking for a complete XR 200/250 motor to put in my street legal frame?

Edited by pre-mixed

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Premixed,

 

Please take a photo of the wrist pin and upper rod bearing as best you can. 

 

If those don't check out, then ya, probably a full rebuild is order.

 

Michael 

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Two quick field checks:

 

For rod big end bearing play: Grasp the rod in one hand so the crank is suspended, with your other hand smack the bottom of the crank; you should feel no slop or  click.

 

For rod small end elongation: Insert the wrist pin into the rod until an end is flush with the rod; move the extended part of the pin up/down and side to side; both movements should be the same.

 

If either test fails; the rod, bearing, and crank pin should be replaced.

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