Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Chain dragging on tyre with motard rims

Recommended Posts

I have a 2003 DRZ 400E and a while ago got some motard wheels. Talon hubs with sm rims. Love it as a motard but when I got the rims it had a 160/60/17 tyre and the chain rubbed on the edge of the tyre. I was ok with that thinking it was too wide. I have recently gone to a 140/70/17 and it is still rubbing and seems worse...it is really chewing the edge of the tyre out...maybe because it is softer. I have checked chain tension and wheel alignment. I am now thinking it may be the chain guide on the swingarm is worn letting the chain move across.

Anyone got any ideas or had a similar experience.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 2003 DRZ 400E and a while ago got some motard wheels. Talon hubs with sm rims. Love it as a motard but when I got the rims it had a 160/60/17 tyre and the chain rubbed on the edge of the tyre. I was ok with that thinking it was too wide. I have recently gone to a 140/70/17 and it is still rubbing and seems worse...it is really chewing the edge of the tyre out...maybe because it is softer. I have checked chain tension and wheel alignment. I am now thinking it may be the chain guide on the swingarm is worn letting the chain move across.

Anyone got any ideas or had a similar experience.

 

 

depends on your spoke offset, tire profile, hub spacers, and chain slack. one, or more of them, needs adjusting. i ran a 150 on a 4" rim (cast mag) and it didn't rub, then a 140 that did, another 140 that did not, and finally a 140 today that also does not. tire profiles make a difference, as well as tire manufacturer. 

 

the chain guide should not be needed if the spacing is correct. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks

I can see there are a few variables I may have not considered. I have also seached this forum a bit more extensively and can see that a DRZ400SM front chain slider has wings to prevent the chain rubbing. I am thinking I will get one and try that. Sounds like it will fit a DRZ400E swingarm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to disagree, and say the chain SM chain guide is absolutely necessary. Otherwise the chain will rub the tire. That's exactly why SM models come with a different guide:

 

smguide.jpg

 

The one in the picture is an aftermarket one designed to work with the E / S swing arm without cutting. You can always use the OEM SM guide if you want, but it will need some trimming to clear the welds on the swing arm (SM swing arms are different).

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. That slider looks like what I need. do you have a link or name of the slider.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How many miles on the chain? If it is overly worn it will have too much side to side play and hit the tire. See how much you can move the chain sideways, if you can touch the tire with it replace the chain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How many miles on the chain? If it is overly worn it will have too much side to side play and hit the tire. See how much you can move the chain sideways, if you can touch the tire with it replace the chain.

 

I can do this with a brand new chain, without the SM slider? That's really not a good way to check for chain wear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. That slider looks like what I need. do you have a link or name of the slider.

 

Read this post.

 

I'll say it again though, be prepared to wait. The seller sucks.. Communication is very slow if you get a response at all. Not to mention he is very slow to ship, I don't know if he is making them to order or what, but you will eventually get the stuff.

 

I wish some other vendor would pick this up, it's a good product, just needs to be sold by someone who actually knows how to run a business.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

iver ran over 20 different 150 rear treads patterns/brands...

and ONLY the 150 Pilot Road 4 by Michelin rubs..

no bridgestone,continental, avon 150's NEVER rubbed

 

i even replaced all guides, sliders, n rollers.. it still rubs

Edited by 707LAKE
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

its weird, everyone in here seems to say the SM slider is needed but I don't have one and don't rub.

 

when I had a 150 on the back it rubbed a bit, but I also had a super stretched out old chain.  with my 140/70 in the back now it doesn't rub one bit, but i also have a new chain.

 

i also dont ride SUPER aggressively or fast, maybe that has something to do with it?

 

it does seem as though the common solution is to get the SM slider, i seem to have just lucked out?   :excuseme:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have recently replaced the tyre and new chain and sprockets that are correctly tensioned tensioned. I live near the mountains, and without blowing my trumpet, I run bike right around to the edge of the tyre in the corners. :smirk:  It does sort of baffle me as I also have a ducat monster and the chain on it runs as close or closer to the tyre and never rubs. It only has a similar guide on the front of the swingarm. I am thinking it may be due to the way a single makes the chain run so violently due to its pulses and no cush drive. When you watch the chain when riding (not recommended) it moves around a lot more on the drz than it does on the monster.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to disagree, and say the chain SM chain guide is absolutely necessary. Otherwise the chain will rub the tire. That's exactly why SM models come with a different guide:

 

smguide.jpg

 

The one in the picture is an aftermarket one designed to work with the E / S swing arm without cutting. You can always use the OEM SM guide if you want, but it will need some trimming to clear the welds on the swing arm (SM swing arms are different).

+1,  i just had the same issue when i converted from S to SM  i got that SM chain slider and the problem stopped,  it is definately necessary!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i have the same problem, it only happens to me at certain engine speeds, vibration is just right, but happens less and less as the tires wears down, i was thinking of putting a SM slidder on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 a 160/60/17 tyre and the chain rubbed on the edge of the tyre. I was ok with that thinking it was too wide.

 

 

It's going to be a tight fit when getting somethin that wide in there...150/60 is the way to go....

Edited by Craig-o

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1 its weird, everyone in here seems to say the SM slider is needed but I don't have one and don't rub.

 

2 when I had a 150 on the back it rubbed a bit, but I also had a super stretched out old chain.  with my 140/70 in the back now it doesn't rub one bit, but i also have a new chain.

 

3 i also dont ride SUPER aggressively or fast, maybe that has something to do with it?

 

4 it does seem as though the common solution is to get the SM slider, i seem to have just lucked out?   :excuseme:

 

 

1 and just about everyone has a different setup, different wheel offset, different tire/profile, different chain slack and condition. that's a big part of why there are diffferent opinions about whether it's required or not. 

2 yes, very good points

3 i'd say amount of chain slack and tire profile/width has more to do with it. 

4 na, luck is something Vegas says you have. but they're lying ;-) 

 

it's just the combination of already mentioned setups. some folks swear by the SM slider, then realize one afternoon that their wheel bearings are worn out, but only realize it because their tire and wheel are now tattooed by a worn chain. "but i have a slider, it cant"..... yes, there is a slider on the TOP of the swingarm, but there are two sides to the swingarm. the BOTTOM is just as likely to eat into the rim as the top, and since you spend more time ON the gas than off, guess where the slack in the chain is ? yep

 

look at folks that have poor setups. instead of just one dirrectional SLASH on their tire/rim, they have an X. that's because both the TOP and BOTTOM of the chains run is making contact. 

 

 

summary:

check your tire size/profile, wheel bearings, chain condition, wheel dish, and wheel spacers. ONCE THEY'RE CONFIRMED to be good, then look at the chain slider. don't want to put a tiny bandaid on when you really have a gaping aortic wound ;-) 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...