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earth x lithium.. any problems?

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got one in my 520, and no problems since i don't leave the

GPS in the cradle any more.... bikes been parked about two weeks.

 

battery is stone dead. start it with a little powerall unit, and the thing is

running like poop. won't idle, won't crank. acts like the battery is kerflooie.

 

got it sitting on a 4 amp smart charger, to see if that helps... has there

been any earth x batteries bricking that anyone knows of, or do i start

looking elsewhere for the problem?

 

thanks for any feedback...

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They seem to be ok in warmer climates though in cold area's problems can arise. Odd that yours is dead, they tend to last better in long storage then other types. I would check your stator output, then use a multimeter in amp mode between the + on the battery and + battery cable to see if you have a parasitic drain. 

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I have had two Shorai batteries calf on me one after a couple of years and the other after 10 months, they are sent me another and it seems to spin my bike faster than the other two ever did. I kind of half trust them now.

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They seem to be ok in warmer climates though in cold area's problems can arise. Odd that yours is dead, they tend to last better in long storage then other types. I would check your stator output, then use a multimeter in amp mode between the + on the battery and + battery cable to see if you have a parasitic drain. 

yeah... i put on the 100 watt alternator in place of OEM... could be a leaky diode...

the bike hasn't sat for that long since i put the stuff on.... a week in hawaii means

you don't get to run around the neighborhood on it.... but the battery doesn't have

a lot of cranking ability, it seems. kinda goes away quickly. it'll spin the engine 

quite well, but if you have to crank it very much, it's all over. if you flood the engine,

forget it... i may stick an amp meter on and crank it, and see how many amps for how

long.... but the little powerall seems to have more juice to crank with than the earthX does.

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Same Earth X in mine since early 2012. No issues at all. Fires up every time. I have actually left the key on and GPS for over an hour and it started right up. At one point my Beta sat for over a month. Some say they have issues in the cold. All that's needed is a extra stab or two to warm up the battery in cold weather.

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I did a rewind on mine to put out 175w. Works great though I did have to adjust the reg/rectifier as voltage was only 12.8 at idle. Turning on my light bar it dropped to 11.3 Currently have it set to 14.2 @ 5500 Might have to adjust again this winter when I install my heated grips. Your powerall may have a higher reserve capacity :excuseme: . I'd check the charging voltage first, then for a parasitic leak I mentioned above. If all is well then check the + and - diode boards in the reg/rectifier. Lastly ohm out the stator,just look for consistency between the legs. Then each leg to ground to make sure one isn't not grounded out. Start bike and check voltage between legs @ about 5000 rpms. They should be within 5% of each other. Other then that it could be the battery. The stock batteries are quite small though they are the high performance model for the size. Not sure what size your earth x is. When mine fails I'm going to try a power sonic. They are very cheap (about 20.00) but my son tests just about every manufactures batteries for work and they tested the best for output, charging cycles and discharges. They are used in Snap-on jump packs surprising enough. For the price of 6 to 1 it's worth a try.

Edited by Rotax
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 I'm surprised you were able to stuff that much wire underneath the stock stator cover. The 150 watt one available barely fits and is more than sufficient for most of us. I have the 100 watt one. I remember Danny Hamel's Kawasaki 500 had a huge cover sticking out for the Baja lighting system.

 

Rotax,  which adjustable rectifier are you using? My kit came with the Trail Tech. Once I got it set for the voltage (13.6) and time I wanted my light to stay on (10 seconds), I put a dab of silicone on the adjustment screws. 

 

Randy , my suggestion would be to go old school and start unplugging one circuit at a time. After bike has been setting for 8 hrs or so you should have about 12.5 volts. I'm willing to bet it's something simple like a switch wire that's always hot. 

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 I'm surprised you were able to stuff that much wire underneath the stock stator cover. The 150 watt one available barely fits and is more than sufficient for most of us. I have the 100 watt one. I remember Danny Hamel's Kawasaki 500 had a huge cover sticking out for the Baja lighting system.

 

Rotax,  which adjustable rectifier are you using? My kit came with the Trail Tech. Once I got it set for the voltage (13.6) and time I wanted my light to stay on (10 seconds), I put a dab of silicone on the adjustment screws. 

 

Randy , my suggestion would be to go old school and start unplugging one circuit at a time. After bike has been setting for 8 hrs or so you should have about 12.5 volts. I'm willing to bet it's something simple like a switch wire that's always hot. 

The wire is not much wider then the top of the pole. They haven't grounded out so I'm good so far. Also used slightly larger wire for more output in the higher rpm range that was recommended by a friend.  It's pretty easy to get more windings then the factory machine wound ones. There is plenty of voids were wire could have been placed. I need as much as I can get. I'll be putting in a total lights cut off switch also. Being in a cold climate we use heated grips(30w), jacket (105w) so I'll have to switch between the stock light(35w) and my light bar (73w) depending what I'm using or none at all since we generally don't ride bikes after dark in the winter. The reg/rec is from Race Tech. I believe it's for a Yamaha Banshee and is rated at 200w. My stator actually puts out 172w so their 150w offering was not enough. Mine is set at 14.2 with a 10 sec delay on the lights. For sealing the screws I use clear finger nail polish. I stole a bunch of colors from the wife for marking timing marks and bolts  :) . I need all the help I can get with these old eyes.

Edited by Rotax
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Why don't you try another conventional OEM-like battery?

that's also what i was thinking.... i've got an extra

oddesy battery that should fit... but first i've got

a fluke meter that i'll put across the battery lead,

and see how much is leaking, then start looking for

the source of any leak... for the next couple weeks,

i'm pretty busy with work, so this will have to sit a bit.

 

8 am sunday, out the door. work day. thanks for everyone's 

input on this.

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funny, I while I was away on vacation last week, I was reading this thread and thinking "my Earth-X battery has been so reliable"  then I got home and went for a ride today and the bike would not start at all, no click, nothing!

 

however the horn worked loud and steady indicating at least some decent charge in the battery?  so I flip out my kick starter for the first time ever only to find out that something is wrong with the return spring, it only comes about half way back up.....still I was able to ride all day using only "half stroke" kicks to light her up.

 

The bike has been sitting for two weeks, which  is the longest it has sat since I got it.  It has always fired right up hot or cold.

 

I checked the connections at the battery terminals and everything is tight and clean. multi meter shows 12.79V

 

now even after sitting it on the trickle charger for hours it will not start with the button, it clicks like it's trying...but can't spin the motor.  if I flip the charger to10 amp boost it spins the motor every time flawlessly, but the battery on it's own can't spin the motor at all....shot battery all of the sudden??

 

another intersting observation:  in my haste I accidentally shorted the battery for a second when hooking up the charger.  I pulled the charger off and it fired the bike 4-5 times in a row effortlessly as usual...so I hooked the charger back up and let it sit for a few hours....now I'm back to nothing again

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If your bike is a 2-stroke, don't bother checking for the return spring.

Its just residuals (surface rust e.t.c.) between the kick starter's axle and the seal which proves:

a) how reliable is the el, start

and

B) that you are just so lazy like any of us and have never used your k/starter

 

Just spray some thin lubricant, start using it now and then and it will come back, its not worth the hassle to remove inner side cover (but if you do it, then you can apply some grease which will last forever).

If you do it, remeber to have available an extra o-ring for the water pipe (front rhs corner).

On my 2013 300 I did all of the above.

On my 2014 250 I......did... ehmm........

 

Just can't remember when was the last time I kick started it (or if there was one....) :blush:

 

 

 

LiPo batteries some times need special charger, right?

Edited by dirtbird

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Just can't remember when was the last time I kick started it (or if there was one....) :blush:

 

LiPo batteries some times need special charger, right?

 

i've not tried to start mine cold with the kick starter.

there, i said it. i'm a lazy, worthless POS. you heard it here first.

 

the earth x lithiums don't require a special charger. i put mine

on a battery minder for an hour or so, on 4 amps, and it was good

as new. work got cancelled for today, no facility access, so i came

home, started up the bike, and went for a spin down PCH as it was

almost noon by that time, and going off for a ride weren't in the cards.

 

somewhere between huntington beach and san clemente the air box

side panel yearned to be free, and is now resting peacefully alongside

PCH. never even felt it depart. 

 

life goes on, with or without a side cover.

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Hi!

 

 I had a very similar problem with my 400. It came out to be either a not so well tighten starter cable connection in front, behind the headlight (I greased the head bearings and I disconnected it) or the fuse on the relay in front of the battery (it seemed ok but I installed a new one pressing it strongly into its place). It has been fine since this check-up and the starter works fine with a lithium 2.3 Ah Ultrabatt battery.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Leon 

Edited by leon_gasgas

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i've not tried to start mine cold with the kick starter.

there, i said it. i'm a lazy, worthless POS. you heard it here first.

 

the earth x lithiums don't require a special charger. i put mine

on a battery minder for an hour or so, on 4 amps, and it was good

as new. work got cancelled for today, no facility access, so i came

home, started up the bike, and went for a spin down PCH as it was

almost noon by that time, and going off for a ride weren't in the cards.

 

somewhere between huntington beach and san clemente the air box

side panel yearned to be free, and is now resting peacefully alongside

PCH. never even felt it depart. 

 

life goes on, with or without a side cover.

 

You are not the only one. I always use the magic button. 

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I have never kicked the bike because the starter works so damn good I had no reason...even with only a "half kick" available,  it started right up instantly...all day!

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Changed the fuse out and checked all wires, still just clicking at the solenoid by the fuses......voltage meter shows 12.79v

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The starter shaft is a close tolerance fit in the side cover. Some are tighter than others. Mine was sticky and broke in with use. I use the kicker for HS starts as I think it's faster, for me anyway. The spring and mechanism are likely fine. What is the battery voltage under load when you hit the starter button?

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Changed the fuse out and checked all wires, still just clicking at the solenoid by the fuses......voltage meter shows 12.79v

Hi, a no load voltage reading does not mean a lot.Try  taking  a reading while pushing the start button, I will bet the voltage reading drops to 6 volts or so. If it does, your battery has calved. 

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I did a rewind on mine to put out 175w. Works great though I did have to adjust the reg/rectifier as voltage was only 12.8 at idle. Turning on my light bar it dropped to 11.3 Currently have it set to 14.2 @ 5500 Might have to adjust again this winter when I install my heated grips. Your powerall may have a higher reserve capacity :excuseme: . I'd check the charging voltage first, then for a parasitic leak I mentioned above. If all is well then check the + and - diode boards in the reg/rectifier. Lastly ohm out the stator,just look for consistency between the legs. Then each leg to ground to make sure one isn't not grounded out. Start bike and check voltage between legs @ about 5000 rpms. They should be within 5% of each other. Other then that it could be the battery. The stock batteries are quite small though they are the high performance model for the size. Not sure what size your earth x is. When mine fails I'm going to try a power sonic. They are very cheap (about 20.00) but my son tests just about every manufactures batteries for work and they tested the best for output, charging cycles and discharges. They are used in Snap-on jump packs surprising enough. For the price of 6 to 1 it's worth a try.

Which PN Power Sonic are you considering?

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