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How do I bleed my 2000 kx250 rear brakes?

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Youtube dirt bike break bleeding.Many vids. Where have you been riding at?Heck if your around Richmond I'll show you.

Edited by Dsmc

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take the caliper off and put it lower than the master, with the bleed screw at the top.

put some clear tubing on the nipple

loosen nipple

pump and pour fluid into the resevoir

clean fluid will come out eventually.

pump, close nipple, pump

pump and hold, open nipple, close nipple, release and repeat until no bubbles are coming out into the tube.

might want to tap on the caliper and line occasionally incase any bubbles get caught up.

spread pads, fill to required height, replace cap, bolt caliper on.

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take the caliper off and put it lower than the master, with the bleed screw at the top.

Wrong, the caliper should be higher then the master, air rises in brake fluid. You would be just making things harder. Or does air sink to the bottem down under??? ROFL! 

 

Even then I normally just bleed the rear with out removing the caliper, only time it gets moved is if it's giving me trouble.

 

@OP I doubt you have much air in the rear brake system it's probably just old burnt fluid in need of a good change.

Edited by moose_338

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Wrong, the caliper should be higher then the master, air rises in brake fluid. You would be just making things harder. Or does air sink to the bottem down under??? ROFL! 

 

Even then I normally just bleed the rear with out removing the caliper, only time it gets moved is if it's giving me trouble.

 

@OP I doubt you have much air in the rear brake system it's probably just old burnt fluid in need of a good change.

air bubbles are pushed through the line, they don't just float around in there.

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air bubbles are pushed through the line, they don't just float around in there.

But they do rise to the top though.

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One man reverse bleeder is about $23 shipped on ebay and includes a syringe to remove excess fluid from the master cylinder.

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Oh damn, y'all argue too damn much.

 

The easiest way to do it since the caliper and lever are so close.

1. remove cap to reservoir and topoff (keeping topped of as well)

2. Loosen bleeder and place fingertip over it.

3. slowly pump lever.

(your finger acts like a one way bleeder)

 

You will also be able to feel any bubbles that pass by your finger. 

Without taking your finger off, tighten the bleeder. You should have good pedal feel. If not, then you still have air or something else is wrong, continue troubleshooting.

 

 

EDIT: And wear safety glasses. I'm not responsible if you get shot in the eyes with Brake fluid. 

Common sense isn't too common. :facepalm:

Edited by SAPPERS

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Oh damn, y'all argue too damn much.

The easiest way to do it since the caliper and lever are so close.

1. remove cap to reservoir and topoff (keeping topped of as well)

2. Loosen bleeder and place fingertip over it.

3. slowly pump lever.

(your finger acts like a one way bleeder)

You will also be able to feel any bubbles that pass by your finger.

Without taking your finger off, tighten the bleeder. You should have good pedal feel. If not, then you still have air or something else is wrong, continue troubleshooting.

EDIT: And wear safety glasses. I'm not responsible if you get shot in the eyes with Brake fluid.

Common sense isn't too common. :facepalm:

Id do gloves too. Got some brake fluid on my gloves once, then picked up my phone to look at a manual...melted the back of the phone case.

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I just bought a new rear master cylinder and I've been trying to bleed them. I keep trying and it still has no pressure. Fluid will come out of the bleeder screw but won't have any pressure. What's wrong and how can I fix it?

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