Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

YZ 450 2014 LOOSE FRONT END

Recommended Posts

Provalve is in Huntington Beach. Costs vary depending on what your bike needs/personal preference, valving, oil, spring change etc.

 

If you're happy with stock, stick with it. I ran stock suspension with only spring changes for years.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Provalve is in Huntington Beach. Costs vary depending on what your bike needs/personal preference, valving, oil, spring change etc.

If you're happy with stock, stick with it. I ran stock suspension with only spring changes for years.

Did they move from Costa Mesa? It's been a long time but nick worked wonders on my supermoto suspension. Revalved/resprung ..it was a totally different bike and much easier to ride fast at Grange.

Also, keep in mind the old saying: the best you know is the best you've ridden.

Edited by forgotmyusername

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok guys, I have an 11 that has the "light front end" feeling that every newer yz450 has. I did the regulars, suspension, engine relocation kit (probably the best mod to date) lowering link, lowered radiators, countless rear sag/fork height trials to make my bike where it was most comfortable.

Then I came up with this idea...ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1409972127.828936.jpg

Homemade Front end wheel weights! I know it's not calibrated and it's unsuspended weight but it's not even 3/4 of a pound.

I took bar end weights from the streetbike and made them. The right fork is still the compression fiting with a section of radiator hose over the expanding rubber part of the nut.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1409972930.243478.jpg

The cool part is this acts like a handle when pulling the axle.

The left fork lucky the axle had threads (I assume for a brake guard, but you could tap/weld/heli-coil if needed) so I used a countersunk allen and cut the base of the weight off.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1409973389.732575.jpg

I do believe that this mod did help my front end bite better everwhere! I'm gonna keep running it!!! A lot of time I'm front end high on a lot of jumps anyway. This seemed to help that to.

Try at your own risk! This is my own untested except for me idea. There could be hundreds of variations.

Post a pic of you do make one. I'd love to see!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I myself tried moving my forks up 4mm made the front end too snappy in corner so I went back to flush . 110 sag. For me I have plenty of front end grip stock never had a washout from the front it grips like crazy I point and shoot and it goes were I put it I just swing the rear around. Its quite nice actually!

It blows me away when I hear ppl say they have no front end grip because I have the opposite sensation maybe I'm just throttle happy lol

I don't have direct experience with the 14, but generally speaking about suspension, a 4mm move is pretty significant. Especially since it completely changed the handling characteristics. Then you went right back to stock without trying 1, 2, or 3 MM. I would def revisit that. Also, sag setting of 110 MM is just a baseline. You can adjust your sag up and down a few MM to change the handling of the bike also. 

 

Lastly, since you are coming back from a few years off the bike, rider position is more likely the problem. Weighting the outside peg on corners will give the rear tire allot more traction.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All good pointers! I'll try 2 mm on the forks and see what happens. I try to be conscience of my technique while I ride but sometimes I just have too much fun lol I'll pay more attention to weighting the outside peg and see if it helps .how much do you weight it? Like full body weight with your ass off the seat? Or just apply pressure?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The rebound damping has an effect on the stability and the cornering characteristics of the motorcycle.

As you enter a turn, the forks compress.  As it settles into the turn, the speed at which the forks rebound is what pushes your front wheel into the ground. If the forks rebound too quickly, the energy will be used up and the bike will drift wide, or wash. If the rebound is too slow, the bike will tend more toward tucking under and turn too soon to the inside. Experiment with 5-6 click changes to exaggerate the effect, then dial in using smaller increments.

The wheel should return to the ground quickly yet not deflect off berms or bounce off jumps.

To true & i have tried this with no real noticeable difference. The big "unknown" in this debate is rider position in the corner. We all go about it differently. I think if you are "over the front" on this bike, (or any bike) you WONT have problems with the front end pushing (running wide) or front wheel washouts. For me that doesnt feel natural & im going to give the DR D engine reposition kit a go. Its been well documented that since the reward slanted motor was introduced one of the down sides was taking weight from the front end. I heard it was one of the best one off fixes in 12/13 for this bike & numerous race teams opted for it. I dont know that anything is different for the 2014 model ? So if like me being over the front in corners feels un natural, it would seem like a logical next step. A few riders have posted here it made a difference ? Due to the REALLY rough sand tracks i ride i have around 2-3 mm of fork tube through the clamps. Any more & it becomes too unstable at speed. Id like to be able to have them "flush" as some riders say but even with 2-3mm through it wants to sit up mid corner. My fear with running them flush is it would just make the bike so difficult to get to turn

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All good pointers! I'll try 2 mm on the forks and see what happens. I try to be conscience of my technique while I ride but sometimes I just have too much fun lol I'll pay more attention to weighting the outside peg and see if it helps .how much do you weight it? Like full body weight with your ass off the seat? Or just apply pressure?

The amount of weight really depends on the corner, speed, etc. Some corners I am applying allot, especially flat corners with no rut. Others only little, rutted corners, none.

Next time you go riding just play around with it, you will be amazed how well it makes the side knobs stick.

Edited by YZPaGuy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did they move from Costa Mesa? It's been a long time but nick worked wonders on my supermoto suspension. Revalved/resprung ..it was a totally different bike and much easier to ride fast at Grange.

Also, keep in mind the old saying: the best you know is the best you've ridden.

No, my mistake. Still in CM.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why don't people run sag on these bikes where the owners manual recommends? For years and years, even the mag reviews recommend 103-105. I sent a couple of suspensions to f.c. for off-road revalves and they recommended 110 sag. Believe me I have done my fair share of testing sag on yz's and wr's over the years. Including the new 14 yz. I have tried anywhere from 90-110. For me 95-100 works the best, depending on terrain. To me the 14 is not even rideable with 110, of course the front end is going to feel loose. Do yourself a favor and try what the manual recommends 90-100.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I too now know what riders mean on here when they talk of the "loose front end" on this bike. Ive had 3-4 front end wash outs, (on sand tracks). I have a good front tyre, spring rates & sags are correct. Run the standard rear link. Did run a lowering link for a few months, but recently went back to standard. Other than keeping the back end planted in braking bumps, i think standard link offers more overall benefits.

Other than pulling the forks through, (to weight the front end) which will give it more grip, keen to hear from other people as to what they've done to combat the problem. Id prefer not to do this if possible as then you obviously sacrifice straight line stability. Have been running 2-3mm of tubing through the clamps.

YZ 450 2014 models comparisons pls

. I don't know if you tried this but it's a 15 minute job move the bar mounts up to the front holes in the tree that will get you up front more to put weight over the front end I believe the bars are moved forward about an inch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

. I don't know if you tried this but it's a 15 minute job move the bar mounts up to the front holes in the tree that will get you up front more to put weight over the front end I believe the bars are moved forward about an inch.

Yep, already running them in the front mounts !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Going night riding tomorrow at perris mx I'm going to move my bars and play with some clickers see how it goes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One of the big things to experiment with, too, is rider position. All YZ450's are very sensitive to it, and like the rider well forward in corners.

Took this advice the other day at the track night and day, ride up forward in tight turns and it cuts like butter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome. I'll delete it.

. I snuck out for 20 min on my Yz moving the bar mounts up to the top holes works great keeps me up in the center of the bike I tried it in the sand bam works just like my 13 did gotta love it one inch different for the better for me
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By hondahondo
      A few picks of my winter project.













    • By Big64N
      Good condition with a long list of high end upgrade parts.
      Rekluse EXP 3.0 with cover and slave
      EVO- Ellensburg suspension tuning for 6' 200# expert rider
      Fork bleeders
      Trail-tech map switch
      Moose 1-1/8 flex bar
      CYCRA probend bar guards
      SXS skid plate with linkage plate
      Clutch and water pump guards
      Frame guards
      Fastway Evolution III pegs
      SRT Pro Armor radiator and rear rotor guards
      Acerbic Front rotor guard
      TM designs chain guides
      DID race chain
      Renthal sprockets
      Gripper seat
      FMF F-bomb header
      Dirt Tricks timing chain tensioner
      Pro Wheel, wheels
      Tubliss front and rear
      New top end and valve adjustment 60 hours old
      Many more aftermarket parts as well as spare parts and service manuals included in the sale.  Willing to include 4 sets of tires with 80% tread left for full price.
      Great bike with plenty of life left and set up for anything from single track woods to wide open dessert.
      Can hang with any of the 450's but is much easier to handle in the tight woods.
      Priced to sell at $6000.00 
      Willing to consider reasonable offers but no trades or carry.
    • By dank08
      I am selling my 2001 yz426f(As is), I bought it used from private seller back in 2011.  I rarely used it at first, playing around in dirt areas and local OHV trails.  I began using it for bigger trail rides like Gorman in Hungry valley.  I hated the manual decompression. In 2015 I bought Hotcams stage 1 intake and exhaust cams for the auto decompression.  I had Motorcycle Tech in Upland, CA do the install.  They also installed a new Piston Ring and Intake valve.  Have work order paperwork and old parts from the job.  Last big ride was 2017 September, Kennedy Meadows.  Put on new tires before this ride along with fresh oil/filter and new air filter.  Bike ran like a champ and we made it up some some pretty nasty climbs first try 
      The Hand Grips are new. The front and rear fenders along with radiator shrouds are a year old.  Side # plate cracked as seen in picture.
      Still an awesome ol' powerful bike.
      Negatives are a heavy clutch pull and a grabby clutch.
      Selling because I've replaced it and have no intention of using it anymore.
      Pink in hand.
      I'm asking $1,500 OBO for the bike as is.
      No trades.
      Cash only please.
      Serious inquiries only.
      Thank you.
       
×