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91 Suzuki DR 350 no oil on dipstick after 10 min ride.

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Hey guys. So here's the story. I bought a 91 dr 350 with just over 4k miles for 600$ score!. It had been sitting and didn't run when I bought it. I cleaned the carb, starts and runs fine. Before I even brought her out of the garage I emptied the clean looking oil out the case and frame, checked the filter and it seems very clean too. Then proceeded to not follow directions and put in about 2.5 liters of oil. Started it up oil and smoke everywhere; airbox, exhaust etc... Ran it for a minute and decided to read TT forums. Drained oil, replaced with 1700ML as specified.

 

About bike: running petcock on prime, bypassed diaphragm system. vacuum vent on carb plugged, using 10W40 castrol MC oil. 

 

Here's where I'm stuck. 

 

Started fresh with 1700 CC's of oil. Ran it for a couple minutes at idle burned off the oil that had gotten into the combustion chamber. Result- no dipstick reading. 

Ran it up and down a big hill for 2 minutes at high rpms, let idle for 2 minutes and shut off engine, still no dipstick reading.

Put in another 100CC of oil in the frame, ran it up and down the street a few times, let it sit and idle for 2 minutes, shut off -still no dipstick reading.

Added another 100 CC's of oil, ran 5 minutes, idled for 2 - STILL NO READING 

Another 100CC's totalling 2 full Liters, ran for 5min at high rpms, idled for 2- Still no reading! 

Added another 100CC's(2.1L total), started smoking out the exhaust again, and shut it off.

 

Drained oil and put in 1700cc again, ran the bike HARD for 5-10 Minutes, let it sit and idle but it died after about a minute of running. checked the dipstick and Still NO READING!!!!!

put in another 150 CC totalling 1850 Ran HARD, idled. NOTHING!

 

Right after running with 1850 cc I took off the frame plug and like 2 drops of oil came out. let it run with no frame plug for a second and little spurts of 1-2cc with air were being sprayed out.

 

 

I took off the banjo bolt to the line that feeds back into the frame at the frame and kicked it over with the decomp lever depressed and it spurts out oil. And took off the oil filter and did the same, I saw oil drawn up. 

Then I have proceeded to remove ALL the oil lines except the one from the valve cover to airbox and the case to the airbox. I blew through them with my mouth, and caped on end. no leaks that I can tell. and no obstructions. Every oil passage in the engine looks clean. no leaks anywhere. 

 

Any suggestions are much appreciated, no suggestion is a bad suggestion, idea's, oil diagrams, clymer manual pdfs? 

 

Please help. This bike is driving me crazy!

 

 

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you need to quit running the engine until you find the problem. chances are you have already done significant damage with this oil problem.  sounds to me like there is a blockage or the oil pump is not working. I bet all that oil is just sitting in the bottom of you engine and not lubricating the top end at all.

keep running the bike like this and your going to ruin allot more that 600 bucks worth of parts

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I am not sure how the oil pump works. its not a common problem with the dr at all. the majority of the oil should be held in the frame. I think your oil is just pooling in the transmission. your not lubricating your piston or cam.  I could be wrong but it sounds like your top end is toast.

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Yeah, thats the problem, the oil is in the bottom end, not very much is getting to the top end, and even less getting to the frame tank for circulation. The top end is not my concern atm, It still runs like it should. I'm getting partial return on the oil to the frame tank. Just not enough pressure to fill the tank faster than its being sucked into the bottom end. Did find the silicone rtv gasket BS on the valve cover... so hopefully its just a clump of that shit stuck somewhere in the pump or another oil passage. 

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The top end should be your concern.. The head and cam costs way more than you paid for the whole bike. They are going to be the first thing to suffer from oil starvation

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More info found. There is RTV on the valve cover. possibly too much . I put all the oil lines back in place and took the oil filter totally off to try to increase flow. I put heavier oil and got more of it to stay in the tank while running. I let it run for a minute or two and had lots of smoke coming out of the exhuast. I'm wondering if somehow the oil that goes through the head on the way back to the tank, and potentially is clogged up. which would explain the issue of partial oil flow and a head that seem to get much hotter than the cylinder in 1-2 minutes of low rpms... hope I didn't  damage any bearings. Next step I'd guess is to take off the head...

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Don't run the motor anymore ..... if you don't get return oil you end up with no supply oil , its all in the sump and your engine is getting lubed like a briggs and Stratton lawn mower , it will wipe out the cam and other bad things can happen .

I don't have a DR350 but on my XR600 there is a screen filter inside the clutch cover that filters the oil to the return side of the pump , generally they do not need regular service BUT can become clogged if the clutch has been excessively fanned ,or trying to do burnouts , coming out of corners fanning it to get revs up ... clutch material will accumulate and clog the screen ..... gobs of rv seal are not good either . Use a anerobic gasket sealer like Loktite 518

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Take off the cam cover and spin the engine over - you should get plenty of oil out the end off the cam.  I suspect there's a blockage somewhere and at least you can test it without toasting the top end.

 

Basically work backwards to the oil feed pipe and down to the pump.

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I have a 92 with almost 8,000 miles and have never seen a problem like this.  you should not have to run it "hard" before checking the oil.  A 5 min. warm up is usually good.  Warm up, then wait 1 minute and check.    I have been running 10W40 Golden Spectro Semi-Synthetic oil since I bought the bike new with no problems, just now starting to use some oil due to age & miles.  so I agree, there must be a clog somewhere in the oil system.  Oil change with filter change takes about 2 Liters of oil.  also there are 2 drain plugs on these, the main one on the bottom and a smaller one on the front of the frame tube.

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I had days where my bike wasn't registering oil when it should be (after a 5 min warmup).  I am somewhat of a noob too.  I was guessing it was a clog, cause the issue went away.  But I am always making sure the oil is circulating.  Usually I could tell with how hot the engine was to my leg.

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Ok update. After months of working on my kawi h1 I decided to look back into the DR-350. The engine is out oil lines off. So I took the clutch cover off. which exposed the oil pump(mikuni) and Everything looks real clean. I took off the drive gear and turned the pump by hand and started to cover up the oil port on the opposite side (near the shifter) and definitely felt some good air pressure/suction depending on the direction turned. The oil line goes from the oil port below the shifter up to the top end (Thank goodness for the top ends sake). 

Here's my question where should I go from here?

Is the oil just passing through the old filter faster than its being pumped up, why would the frame tank ever have oil in it? Because nothing is stopping the oil from immediately draining down into the case.  

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I think the oil pump itself acts like a valve when the bike is off, and hence why the frame oil drains back very slowly, through the pump.  There is a 2nd part of the pump that sends oil up to the frame, sucked up from the crankcase, have a look round that?

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