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Engine is cutting out.


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Hey all, I'm having what I believe to be a ignition problem. 2 weeks ago, a buddy and I were riding at Wayne National Forest. We got about 70 miles into the ride and I started having stuttering problems and I blew the main fuse. We replaced the fuse, but it would still cut out from time to time. We cut the ride short as I didn't feel like pushing a dead bike through the woods (been there, done that). I got the bike home and started looking it over and found 2 wires had been smashed at the steering stop (thanks TT for having all this info). I soldered/ shrink wrapped them and everything was fine. I rode around my shop for a little bit of time and all was well- problem solved, right?

 

So, this weekend I wanted to go down and check out Hatfield McCoy. Called up a friend of mine that I had sold my old WR to, and got him to meet me there so we could get in a couple of good days of riding. We got in 4 miles before my bike decided to start cutting out. It definitely feels like ignition, it's very sharp like electric not bogging like a fuel issue. If I let the bike cool down, it fires right up. We rigged up the coil of of his bike thinking that may be the problem, but it acted the same- get a few miles and  dead bike. We tested as much of the electric system as we could with a multi meter and the only problem we could find is charge voltage while above idle. At idle we get 13.3 volts roughly, above that it drops to 12.5 roughly. We went over every connection we could find, none of them were hot or discolored. We also cleaned every connection we could find even though they all looked good.

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 the only problem we could find is charge voltage while above idle. At idle we get 13.3 volts roughly, above that it drops to 12.5 roughly. 

Where are you checking the voltage? Go through the diagnoses https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/541623-charging-system-diagnoses-plus-the-free-power-mod/

and find where the power cuts off. 99% persperation

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We went through that. The only oddity we could find is we were getting 100 volts instead of 60 volts when checking the yellow wires. The only thing we didn't do was check voltage right at the red/ black wires at the RR.

 

BTW, this is a 2000 E model.

Edited by 4ward
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  • 2 weeks later...

Figured I'd give a follow up for those that run across this in a search. After checking the entire charging system and every plug I could find, I couldn't find anything truly wrong. I searched locally for a week for a cdi box to swap on to see if that was the problem. A buddy had a 04 S model that has a blown motor so he brought his RR and cdi over to swap. Couldn't get the bike to fire at all with his cdi, plug mine back in and it would fire right up. We swapped out the RR and it changed the way it was cutting out, but it still died after 2 miles or so. Put my RR back on and it acted the same. Ordered up a cdi off of ebay and crossed my fingers that this was the problem. It came in yesterday and I slapped it on. Put 5 miles on the bike with no problems. 3 miles of it was on my little test track behind the shop and 2 miles of it was pinned on the road (no tag on it yet). I'm thinking it's fixed. If the rain lets up today, I'm hitting the trail tomorrow to find out for sure.

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Fingers crossed you solved your problem.

The 'S' CDI won't work unless you modify the harness slightly. On an S the CDI needs a ground on a certain pin to say it is ok to fire and the kickstand/neutral safety circuit is satisfied. On an 'E' version of the CDI that same pin gets ground from the kill switch to stop the engine. Removing the wire from the connector can make it run but then you don't have a kill switch. The wiring diagrams are available for both bikes https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/839366-anybody-know-what-this-wire-is-for/?p=8681883

Typically charging and cutting out problems are related to the stator. CDI's tend to be bulletproof but of course there is always the exception. R/R's generally don't give many problems either.

Did you connect one lead of a meter to engine case and then with the other lead probe each of the 3 yellow wires (at the plug that goes to the R/R) and to the signal coil wires at the CDI plug? Meter set on resistance. ANY reading is a bad stator as it indicates a coil is shorted to the stator frame. The stator frame is bolted to the engine case which is why attaching a wire to the engine case completes the test circuit.

What meter setting were you using to check the stator output when you got >100V? AC is the correct setting.

If you have any further problems take the time to lean the bike to the right side (this avoids oil draining) and remove the stator cover. The stator is attached to the inside of the cover and if the stator is failing most of the time there is evidence of overheating or some frayed wiring. Occasionally there is significant physical damage from a bolt that has backed out of the stator or the starter clutch.

If it is a problem with the signal coil (the signal coil is part of the stator) the typical symptoms are yellow instead of blue spark, and it is at the wrong time so the bike won't run.

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Follow up. It was definitely the cdi box. Put in 40 miles on the trail on Saturday. I'll be doing the free power mod this week as I go through the bike for this weekend's Baby Burr dual sport ride.

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