Locktite mod

I am in the process of changing the oil on my 2014 SM with 385miles on her. While im doing that I am doing the stator and flywheel bolts. Stator was pretty easy. However the flywheel bolts and pretty damn tight to get out. I pulled one and it is coated in blue loctite. So should I just put new locktite on the one I pulled and leave the rest or should I put high strength on all the flywheel bolts?

since its a brand new bike and at least still under the one year warranty, personally i would probably look at it like i should probably not monkey it up yet, ya know, the best thing you could do is dab alittle grease on your swingarm bolt and maybe on the lips of the swingarm and wheel seals  .. put a dab of blue on the bolts you have out and call it a day .. reds going to give you grief if you ever have to take things apart, you'll be rounding off bolt heads and everything else ..

If one was done, the others are probably done and I'd leave them alone.

Kudos for being preventative!

Yeah .. It's smart to check them , I would too on a New Bike . It's easy and cheap to do .

Well it seems like a lot of bolt on this thing were locktited. Went ahead and left the flywheel bolts alone. Murphy is alway lurking behind me and it will be hard to explain why I bolt a bolt in the motor when its brand new to the wife! Plus I didnt want to jack with the warranty if I really needed it. I was more nervous about the oil drain plug. I was able to find a crush washer at Napa and had to install a copper washer on the frame drain plug!

Yes, waiting for something to destroy itself, then wait for a warranty decision on if it will be covered, followed by a long wait in line to get the job done by either fully qualified Tech factory trained, or the monkey that the shop hired that got a cool set of tools for christmas last year...is a MUCH better plan then doing some simple, cheap preventative reliability work.... :rolleyes: 

And NO High strength anaerobic thread lock is not going to cause grief and rounded / broken fasteners .. you simply have to remove that fasten in the manner specified and required for correct removal/..

 

 

Heat the fastener up to 250c and the High Strength thread loc is softened and will not cause any extra resistance to removal. 

 

The untrained monkey with the craftsman 125 piece Xmas special tool set mentioned above??? Yes he will round off thread locked fastener heads .....as will many others becuase they do not bother to READ the product Tech sheet and know how to use it. 

Bearing mount 
LOCTITE®
620
 March-2012
 

 

 

And many others, different one for each task, and different removal instructions for each product (through heating is common to all removal procedures) 

Yes, waiting for something to destroy itself, then wait for a warranty decision on if it will be covered, followed by a long wait in line to get the job done by either fully qualified Tech factory trained, or the monkey that the shop hired that got a cool set of tools for christmas last year...is a MUCH better plan then doing some simple, cheap preventative reliability work.... :rolleyes:

And NO High strength anaerobic thread lock is not going to cause grief and rounded / broken fasteners .. you simply have to remove that fasten in the manner specified and required for correct removal/..

Heat the fastener up to 250c and the High Strength thread loc is softened and will not cause any extra resistance to removal.

The untrained monkey with the craftsman 125 piece Xmas special tool set mentioned above??? Yes he will round off thread locked fastener heads .....as will many others becuase they do not bother to READ the product Tech sheet and know how to use it.

Medium Strength

LOCTITE®

242™

Technical Data Sheet

LOCTITE®

271™

March-2012

Bearing mount

LOCTITE®

620

March-2012

Low strength

LOCTITE®

222

January-2009

And many others, different one for each task, and different removal instructions for each product (through heating is common to all removal procedures)

Thanks well I haven't put oil back in so I will pull the Stator cover again and re locktite the remaining 5 bolts. ---- Done. Pulled all the bolts and used the Red 271 Looctite. Now just got to button her back up and fill her full of some rotella. I will say I was surprised on how dirt the oil looked after 385 miles. But then again its brand new. Edited by ospreyfe55

 

And many others, different one for each task, and different removal instructions for each product (through heating is common to all removal procedures) 

ah yes .. the ol' 'torch on the new bike' trick .. ive heard of that before :thumbsup:

ah yes .. the ol' 'torch on the new bike' trick .. ive heard of that before :thumbsup:

Only if your the monkey mentioned above

Otherwise you would chose any of a dozen more correct methods

Erik,

What is your most succesful and preferred method of heat application the those flywheel starter clutch bolts? I have used a soldering tip on a propane torch with a heat shield, micro tweker torch, heat guns, and e rest came out on there own.

Thanks

Erik,

What is your most succesful and preferred method of heat application the those flywheel starter clutch bolts? I have used a soldering tip on a propane torch with a heat shield, micro tweker torch, heat guns, and e rest came out on there own.

Thanks

Pencil torch works well, heat gun works but takes longer, red hot heated 1/2 round bar slightly pointed at the tip..works with one or two applications to transfer enough heat to the fastener. 

I haven't tried the round bar method, great idea and nothing gets flame scorched! I like it.

I haven't tried the round bar method, great idea and nothing gets flame scorched! I like it.

Its cheap and easy if you have an Oxy/Acetylene torch handy and a hunk of bar ....heat the last few inches of the rod to cherry red, touch it to the fastener head and hold 90 sec or so, then do again.

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