First post, first bike, and first question.

Hello everyone. I'm out of Orlando, Florida. Just got a 2002 KX 250, its actually my second bike, first full size bike. Pretty much stock except for an exhaust. Supposedly a fresh top end with 15 hours. Runs and shifts fine. Can't keep the front end down. I just bought a plastics kit as the OG stuff was nasty faded grey and someone tried to kill it with stickers at one point early on in it's life. Also ordered a back tire, filter. 

 

So I am new to 2 stroke bikes, and this one in particular. My question is. The sight glass on the trans case, the fluid is green, not milky green, like Kawi green. If I remove the fill plug, I can look deep enough in to see it all, but all the gear I can see is coated and looks clean. Spells like gear oil. I know someone people are picky about what they run, but it smells similar to rear end fluid on any car, so I imagine it is gear oil. Radiator is full, no rust in there. Looks almost like a dex color pink. More than likely just pink coolant. 

 

Taking it to get a new back tire and front tube on Fri so I can ask a second opinion then, but I wanted to get on this forum as I used it to help me find a bike.

 

Thanks guys!

Some gear oils are green, some are red, some look like oil. As long as it looks clean....

 

When it's time to change it, use ATF type F. You'll be glad you did, you'll love the way it makes the clutch feel. I change mine every 4-6 hours.

 

I don't run antifreeze here in Florida. I use straight distilled water with Water Wetter. It cools better than antifreeze mix.

 

You're just missing the little rubber plug that covers the caliper pin from your rear caliper. You'll want to replace that to keep sand out of the pins, it will eat the pin and the caliper body.

Edited by Chokey

Chokey, couldn't be more grateful for that answer. Should my local parts store carry that rubber plug? I can't find anything online.

 

As far as fluid go, ganna ride it this weekend, drain next and prob go that route!

 

This would appear to be the part # if anyone can confirm: 92150-1692

Edited by flattusmaximus78

I wouldn't worry too much about the rubber plug unless you want it to be showroom perfect. The caliper is supposed to move. 

 

Adding to this, If you're anywhere near Chokey, that's the guy you want to make friends with and meet. That old man is full of knowledge. If you learn as much as he forgot, you'll be pretty damn smart.

 

X2 on the ATF Type F. But you'll probably have to do 2 changes back to back. In other words, drain old oil, put in ATF, ride about 10-15 min, then change again. That gear oil sticks to everything. 

 

BTW. hit up these threads. Many things here to help you along.

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1016220-new-guys-in-here-first/

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/601049-kawasaki-kx-kdx-faq/

Edited by SAPPERS

I'll read those, soak in as much info before I bug him again. I'd like to have it on. I guess I shouldn't let it stop me from riding this weekend?

 

Either way thanks sappers for pointing me in the right direction.

It has Motul Gear oil in it. For the life of me I can't figure out why an oil manufacturer would make an oil the same color as oil with antifreeze mixed into it but they did.

It has Motul Gear oil in it. For the life of me I can't figure out why an oil manufacturer would make an oil the same color as oil with antifreeze mixed into it but they did.

Lol, to scare people!

 

I changed the plastics, bike looks great. PO tried to see if it would kill itself with stickers. Naturally the fender bolts that go into the tank... well the spin. The nut in the tank rolls around when I tried to loosen it. Seems like there is a similar issue with just about every bike as far as the bolts that go through the rad shroud. Idk if the spiinning with a drill trick works for up top, maybe someone can comment.

 

I chopped the heads off the bolts and some industrial strength velcro kept it all looking good. Did a chain, lower roller, slide, and filter. Road it today in some rather sandy conditions, which was rough on me due to the bike being heavy and having a dirt tire on it.

 

I'm 5 ft 8... I weight about 179lbs. This bike is extremely fast. I've owned/been in a lot of fast cars, but this thing scares the life out of me. It's dead reliable, starts first kick, and wants me to beat the life out of it.... however, I'm taking it easy. But it is very fast!

It has Motul Gear oil in it. For the life of me I can't figure out why an oil manufacturer would make an oil the same color as oil with antifreeze mixed into it but they did.

 

 

Oil with antifreeze in it isn't green, it looks like chocolate milk.

Yes, but the same thing that happened to the op happened to me. Bought a slightly used ktm from a friend. Took it out once and parked it in the shop. Staying going over it a week later. When I checked the oil it looked like antifreeze was in the bottom end. Upon draining it I realized it was just the color of the oil. It looked like the whole quarry if antifreeze was in the bottom end with the oil still separated. Not a good feeling at first.

I understood what you meant. When you said antifreeze thrown into it, I think Milky came to mind, but you meant literally just looks like antifreeze in the sight glass. That is what it looks like. The shop I took it too to install some parts said it all checked out. Recommended changing it after two rides or so to be safe. Next time I swing it by it will be for a fluid change, and new front brake line, as my stocker has been rubbed thin. Still stops like a mofo. 

Figured I'd update this, will get put pics up soon but I ended up TRYING to change the trans fluid. Of course the case was stripped. I wasn't too mad as I was warned that was common. So drill and tap and a new plug later she was riding fine again. Road it for a little Saturday. Still getting a feel for it. It's a heavy bike that requires some muscle, most because I'm still nervouse about the power it makes. Starts first kick still and straight rips so I'm happy there!

 

Edit: I ordered a caliper pin plug and it was NOT the rubber cover for the pin. Does anyone know an exact part number. I clean the bike every ride but I don't want a ton of sand in the caliper.

Edited by flattusmaximus78

nickbike.jpg

Small update. The nuts on the inside of the gas tank for the fenders were spinning thanks to the PO cross threading the bolts. So my fenders would flap in the wind. The zipties looked so ugly but a new tank is too much $$ to justify. So my friend is a fabricator and I had him make up some brackets and weld them up, and within 5 minutes I had the bike looking pretty good for free!

 

IMG_6817.jpg

 

 

This shows how close we were able to eyeball fitment. We didn't spend a lot of time on it, but I feel it came out nice for the effort!

 

IMG_6821.jpg

 

IMG_6822.jpg

 

IMG_6823.jpg

 

I had the drain plug replaced and case drilled and tapped as the PO jacked up the threads. Unfortunately I only road it one time and its leaking. Going to take it back tomorrow for repair and see if they have ATF, did a little bit more reading and am interested in trying it out as no one had any last time.

Edited by flattusmaximus78

Nice job on the shroud fix!

 

I'll look and see if I have some caliper parts.  The drain plug was probably not tapped perpendicular to the case which will cause it to leak.  You can use a rubber washer on it or fine tune the fitment by coloring the seal area with a black magic marker, lightly screw in the drain plug until it marks the ink, that's the high spot, then carefully file that area down.  You need to keep repeating the marker and filing until you get a perfect ring after screwing in the drain plug.  There's a tool that does it too, I forget the name, a face seat or something like that, but the file thing works if you're patient.

Nice job on the shroud fix!

 

I'll look and see if I have some caliper parts.  The drain plug was probably not tapped perpendicular to the case which will cause it to leak.  You can use a rubber washer on it or fine tune the fitment by coloring the seal area with a black magic marker, lightly screw in the drain plug until it marks the ink, that's the high spot, then carefully file that area down.  You need to keep repeating the marker and filing until you get a perfect ring after screwing in the drain plug.  There's a tool that does it too, I forget the name, a face seat or something like that, but the file thing works if you're patient.

 

That sounds like a sound method; however, I'm going to give them a shot a fixing it first, then go from there. I didn't do it on purpose to avoid JUST that happening, but it is what it is. We are all human.

 

And thanks in advance for looking.

 

After I get the leak fixed and the plugs in 15 I'm going to yank the shock. The snubber is briddle and turning to peices, plus the bike is set up for someone much taller and heavier than I.

Quick question, on the side of my engine it has the letters TRM etched into it, and it doesn't look like someone did it because they were bored with a pocket knife. It appears to be laser etched into the metal. Any meaning?!

possible work done by a engine mod?

 

pic might help.

image.jpg

 

This is the best I can do lol. I don't store my bike at my apartment.

Usually means someone messed with the porting.

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