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2013 crf 150rb vavle adjustment.

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Howdy Honda lovers,lol. I'm wanting to help someone adjust the valves on their crf. I've rebuilt 2 KTM top ends so I have a reasonable understanding of mechanics. They were older bikes without shims. First of all, is it as complicated as some people like to make it seem? Do the shims usually have their size on them. If not I imagine I would need a good accurate  micrometer. Is the tool for the cct really needed or can I just take the tensioner out completely. Do these bikes chew through valves like earlier Honda's? Does the gap close up quick or rarely move? How many adjustments before it would be recommended to pull the head and inspect the valves.  Any known pitfalls to watch out for working on these bikes? Sorry for the random questions but I would like to help with the bike and have a reasonable understanding of what I'm getting into.

Thanks for any help. :)

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It's not that it is mechanically complicated, but there are things you need to know before you begin.

 

If the person you want to help really wants your help, they should do you the courtesy of making a shop manual available to you. Otherwise they are trusting your best guesses as to disassembly and assembly procedures, clearance, torque, and other specifications.

 

You don't need the special tool. Search TT (maybe use Google search engine) and you will find how to do the job without it.

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Not too bad to do; definitely have a shop manual available. The CRF valves do move; My 2012 valves move more than my '07 or '08 valves did; right intake tends to close up fastest.

As a rule of thumb, when shim sizes get below 1.50mm it's time to rebuild the head; original OEM shim sizes typically ~2.00mm+/-. Always measure shims; never trust the markings. Micrometer is more accurate than digital caliper, but a $20 digital caliper is generally accurate to .01mm. Mic your feeler gages to confirm size. Aftermarket shims are coarser increments (.05mm) than OEM (.025mm). Err on the side of more clearance and shoot for upper limit of spec.

Edited by mjruopp

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Thanks for the help guys. I have already downloaded a manual for the bike. I'm just wary of doing it on someone elses bike. It's good I can make a tool easily if needed but I have read you can just take the whole tensioner out if you don't mind a bit of oil coming out. Correct? 

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Thanks for the help guys. I have already downloaded a manual for the bike. I'm just wary of doing it on someone elses bike. It's good I can make a tool easily if needed but I have read you can just take the whole tensioner out if you don't mind a bit of oil coming out. Correct?

make sure to have loctite and feeler gauges as well as a micrometer. And telescoping magnet. Edit:and torque wrench,everything else is just basic tools Edited by JohnCameron

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