Need lighter clutch lever

[heavenstrails]

Bent my new OE lever. I'd like to replace it with a nice light 1-2 finger lever. The lighter the better. What's good for my WR250F?

[Jon-D]

go with a Rekluse, then you wont need it.  a broken lever is a good excuse to buy one anyhow.

[BazookaJoe]

What year is your bike? Two things you can do:

Change to a newer YZF cable which is shorter and routes out in the open. You will also need the frame bracket by the radiator too. One thing to watch is that Yam has changed the diameter of the cable at the quick adjuster in the later years and those cables may not fit. I think this was the early years (2001 and 2002?) that had small diameter cables ferrules. I can help you with the measurements of newer cables if you need.

The other thing to do, is to install the clutch actuator arm from a 2010-2013 YZ250F. Note that your clutch may be more apt to drag with this different arm. If you are an aggressive rider, you are probably less likely to have a dragging clutch.

If you change to both of these, your clutch lever pull will be smooth like butter.

[heavenstrails]

2013 WR250F.

 

I thought the Rekluse only changes the engagement feel (harsh to soft or something).  I was thinking of getting a Rekluse so please tell me more.  But yes, I could always do clutchless shifting.

 

I'm a newbie rider but I will progress but not likely to an aggressive level. I plan on mostly trail riding, light MX every now and then. So a dragging clutch may not be the best for me.

 

I was thinking of the Magura 167 hydraulic lever but wow, its quite expensive just for one lever and hydraulic line and cylinder. 

 

If I do both the YZ mods and the Rekluse, how might that affect lever effort?

Edited October 31, 2014 by heavenstrails

[chittyrox]

To clarify, you do still need to use the clutch to up or downshift...

For the rekluse, I also run an EXP Core 3.0 in both ma yamadawgs. Easy install and setup, just fine tuning adjustments after a couple rides was needed. Call the guys at rekluse and they can give you a run down on how it all works. EXP Core is the highest version they have, and expensive but I liked it once I got used to it. I, personally, still use my clutch in situations that I need to. Some do, some don't. Guess that's a feeling I still have to not feel completely lazy, haha.

I have a pair of ASV breakaway levers that I like.

Edited October 31, 2014 by chittyrox

[Swappa]

Get your stock clutch working the best it can as a first priority. Good, clean and lubed OEM cable (possibly a shorter one as mentioned above) or Motion Pro t3 cable (dry), strip the clutch perch, clean and lube every pivot and the quick adjust with light grease. If you're picky, service every two or three rides like this. Replace the clutch perch with an OEM one and the pivot bolt if your bike has a few hours on it.

This should make your clutch feel like one on the showroom.

Does it feel like this at present?

Many aftermarket manufacturers make a clutch lever with a needle roller pivot. Works connection and ARC come to mind. These can make a difference, but best to sort out cable and service your current system.

A new WR clutch is not difficult to pull. If it's working as intended ... you might just need to practice. Many thousands before you have mastered the clutch without the need for spending hundreds/thousands on rekluse.

[Harvo]

I have the Magura Setup and it's no easier than a properly operating cable pull.  It doesn't provide any mechanical advantage, it just removes the hassle of a cable (but introduces the hassle of bleeding etc.)

[speedtoad]

The other thing to do, is to install the clutch actuator arm from a 2010-2013 YZ250F. Note that your clutch may be more apt to drag with this different arm. If you are an aggressive rider, you are probably less likely to have a dragging clutch.

 

The clutch actuator arm from a yz400f and I believe 426f is also longer then your stock.  I put one in from a yz400f to make the pull easier.  It helped, but the biggest difference I noticed was it was easier to modulate the clutch. The best example I can give is going from an on/off light switch to a dimmer light switch.  Well worth the $10 I spent.

[YZEtc]

When you write "lighter clutch lever", are you referring to how much effort it takes to pull the clutch lever, or how much the clutch lever weighs (which is the first time I heard anyone ask that, if that's what you mean).

 

If you shoot some thin lube like Bel-Ray 6-in-1 through the clutch cable before you head out riding, I can't imagine an easier-to-pull clutch lever than with what you've already got.

An XR-80R clutch lever takes more effort to pull.

[Harvo]

The clutch actuator arm from a yz400f and I believe 426f is also longer then your stock.  I put one in from a yz400f to make the pull easier.  It helped, but the biggest difference I noticed was it was easier to modulate the clutch. The best example I can give is going from an on/off light switch to a dimmer light switch.  Well worth the $10 I spent.

 

Since it's longer, will the lever pull it far enough to totally disengage the clutch or do you get some wicked drag? Hard to find neutral with the bike running?

[speedtoad]

Since it's longer, will the lever pull it far enough to totally disengage the clutch or do you get some wicked drag? Hard to find neutral with the bike running?

That was my concern before I installed it.  No everything still works as it should, plenty of freeplay and plenty of travel after the clutch disengages.

[heavenstrails]

I have the Magura Setup and it's no easier than a properly operating cable pull.  It doesn't provide any mechanical advantage, it just removes the hassle of a cable (but introduces the hassle of bleeding etc.)

Really? No easier? That's no good. I would think it should be totally lighter effort.  One thing is at least it should be consistent since its not prone to drag from dirt build up .

[heavenstrails]

That was my concern before I installed it.  No everything still works as it should, plenty of freeplay and plenty of travel after the clutch disengages.

So, the longer arm doesn't drag? Did you have to extend the reach on the lever? I mean I'd think there'd have to be some allowances for that longer amount of cable to pull. 

[heavenstrails]

Get your stock clutch working the best it can as a first priority. Good, clean and lubed OEM cable (possibly a shorter one as mentioned above) or Motion Pro t3 cable (dry), strip the clutch perch, clean and lube every pivot and the quick adjust with light grease. If you're picky, service every two or three rides like this. Replace the clutch perch with an OEM one and the pivot bolt if your bike has a few hours on it.

This should make your clutch feel like one on the showroom.

Does it feel like this at present?

Many aftermarket manufacturers make a clutch lever with a needle roller pivot. Works connection and ARC come to mind. These can make a difference, but best to sort out cable and service your current system.

A new WR clutch is not difficult to pull. If it's working as intended ... you might just need to practice. Many thousands before you have mastered the clutch without the need for spending hundreds/thousands on rekluse.

This is a brand spanking new bike. So maybe there's some drag just from the housing and cable interface breaking in or it could be dry from the factory.  I didnt think of that. I like the idea of the roller bearing pivot. 

 

I'm after the lightest pull/effort I can get. 

 

In adding up the parts for a mechanical aftermarket perch, it comes up to about $300.  That's more than the Magura hydraulic perch. This is using two Motion Pro cables (One clutch, one hot start, $50 each for a cable and housing? Oh my), either of the Works Connection levers (one is a complete perch, the other is piecemeal), and the YZ actuator. And these levers arent advertised as reducing effort, just OE replacements with better adjustability and crash-protection features. 

 

Maybe the Magura with the YZ actuator is the way to go. 

Edited November 1, 2014 by heavenstrails

[Goatse]

To clarify, you do still need to use the clutch to up or downshift...

I have a pair of ASV breakaway levers that I like.

I don't use the clutch to up or down shift, ever. The only time I use it is for starting from a stop, popping up the front wheel, or to keep from bogging out in slow terrain.

I have the same levers as well and would buy them again.

[speedtoad]

So, the longer arm doesn't drag? Did you have to extend the reach on the lever? I mean I'd think there'd have to be some allowances for that longer amount of cable to pull. 

If you think about it.  The YZ400F uses the same clutch mount and lever, and the clutches are very similar in design.  Sure I had to adjust the cable, but other then that it was nothing.  The clutch actuator arm isn't that much longer.  I guess your just going to have to have to give it a try.  It's not the most expensive mod.  Your going to have to buy a clutch cover gasket also, but at the same time you can examine your clutch.

Here is a link.

http://www.thumperfaq.com/clutch_act.htm

[heavenstrails]

If you think about it.  The YZ400F uses the same clutch mount and lever, and the clutches are very similar in design.  Sure I had to adjust the cable, but other then that it was nothing.  The clutch actuator arm isn't that much longer.  I guess your just going to have to have to give it a try.  It's not the most expensive mod.  Your going to have to buy a clutch cover gasket also, but at the same time you can examine your clutch.

Here is a link.

http://www.thumperfaq.com/clutch_act.htm

Excellent.  I'm also thinking of going with a Rekluse Z Start or Core Exp.  I may hardly need to clutch at all with the Rekluse. In which case a simple OE replacement lever will suffice. But I'd still go with this YZ mod. Thanks for the info and link. 

[BazookaJoe]

You do not want a longer arm. It mucks up the alignment and your cable will get drag from the friction.

Listen carefully here- the newer 2010-2013 actuator arm is interchangeable with your OEM arm, but is different down inside where the arm meets the push rod. The new arm has better geometry, and THAT is what makes the difference.

Your 13 is going to be just like my 07, so nix on a different clutch cable. The slight cable improvement of the 10-13 YZF routing is not worth the $$, so just use your current cable.

I have swapped to the 2010 YZ250F actuator, and you can get those on Ebay for about $20. It's worth a try for you. My clutch lever pull with a low priced RMMC Tusk clutch lever is remarkably light, and if it's still too hard for you, well, then you really need to do some arm strength exercises.

I mention the clutch dragging possibility b/c YZFs and WRFs do have a tendency to develop a dragging clutch. My experience with that issue, is if the bike is ridden mildly, the clutch drag is more likely. And if your bike gets a clutch drag, for the love of everything blue, please do not put washers under the springs like some misinformed people will suggest.

Hope this all helps.

Edited November 1, 2014 by BazookaJoe

[heavenstrails]

Your 13 is going to be just like my 07, so nix on a different clutch cable. The slight cable improvement of the 10-13 YZF routing is not worth the $$, so just use your current cable.

I have swapped to the 2010 YZ250F actuator, and you can get those on Ebay for about $20. It's worth a try for you. My clutch lever pull with a low priced RMMC Tusk clutch lever is remarkably light, and if it's still too hard for you, well, then you really need to do some arm strength exercises.

I mention the clutch dragging possibility b/c YZFs and WRFs do have a tendency to develop a dragging clutch. My experience with that issue, is if the bike is ridden mildly, the clutch drag is more likely. And if your bike gets a clutch drag, for the love of everything blue, please do not put washers under the springs like some misinformed people will suggest.

Hope this all helps.

Excellent advice.  Why is there more drag if ridden mildly? And what do you mean by mildly? 

[BazookaJoe]

Mildly = puttering at low rpms. The low rpm running delivers less oil to the clutch plates, leaving the clutch plates more likely to become coated with sticky oil residue.