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Rad xr650r biuld

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Alright so I have a few threads here and the biuld is kinda scattered all over, so this is my attempt to keep everything together, easier to find, and keep updating the progress.


I will just review what I have done so far and what the plans are.  Begging is posted here on a different thread but I will summarize.


Early in 2014 I traded my 2007 kawasaki 600ZZR for the 2001 XR650R.

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I really liked the bike, but it had its issues and I wanted something different. So this is what I found on craiglist one day and decided to go meet the guy and check it out.



It was plasti dipped black, motor was just rebiult with a high compression piston and stage 1 cam and added the motard rims. Took about a week to finally talk myself into it and I sold the kawasaki and bought the Honda.


It was dirty as hell, everything was scratched up, the Trail Tech Vapor gauge thing wasnt hooked up correctly and the speedometer didn't work, turn signals turned on but stayed steady (PO said he just toggled the switch on and off for it to blink...) the brakes didn't work very well, the lights were dim, the grips were falling off....

There was a lot of things that needed help, but I thought I started with a pretty good base as I couldn't touch any of the nicely done bikes for what I paid for this.




First thing I decided to work on was the electrical crap so I could safely ride on the road and up the power abit for future mods. (Somewhere in there I also got pro taper bars and a motard front fender and modded a crf450 rear fender to the back, more on the process in the first link at the top)

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Every god damn wire on this bike was yellow (pretty much) and instead of trying to fix this mess I ordered a Vancouver Supermoto Warness and I couldn't be happier with the result. It was more expensive then the alternatives I looked at, but it was easily expandable and had a lot of futures I wanted to add in already on it. 

I added on the Rick Stator with the 200 watt regulator and wired it all as a single DC system (only been running on the one leg 100watt since my only real load was the 35 watt headlight and rest was turned to LEDS)




Fing pictures don't work....

Edited by RadRider77
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So next I bought the Species headlight and wired it up.



Put on the new grips along with Zeta Quick Turn throttle tube, new cables and replaced the beat up clutch lever assy with the MSR clutch lever with the Hot Start.



That however did not work out very well as the Hot start was really hard to push down with the thumb and it would also hit the control box with the switches to the left and any further away would make the lever stop too soon.



Got rid off that set up pretty quick and found a xr400 decomp lever on ebay and bought that to rig something better up. I first put the lever at the bottom and it was nice and out of the way, but there was very little throw in it and I couldn't not get it to totally release all the pressure so It was still hard to kick.



It is currently mounted at the top right where the bars bend which gives me a ton of room to actually fully hold down the lever and get the bike to easily turn over.

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After that I got some TrackSide clutch perch from Cycle Gear on sale and been running those since, they are shorter and also adjustable for throw.

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After I put on the Pro Taper Fat Bars I ditched the PO's bark busters (LOL) and found some cool Zeta guards that had the turn signals in them.

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Bike was finally starting to look like something. I scrapped off all the black plasti dip and was left with this multicolored mess.

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So the bike wasn't together for very long before it went back under the knife. Changed the sprockets to 15/42 (Which is great on the highway but it does really take away all the bottom end acceleration that makes it the BRP so I got a 44 to go back on soon). Also got a new case saver since the PO had to grind down the old one to paper thin to fit in a 16T up front.

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Next I spent probably 2 good solid weeks sanding, sanding, sanding and painting the plastics so at least the bike looked somewhat presentable and try to smooth out some of the deep gashes in some areas.

Radiator guards?

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Air intake cover was probably the worst and had such deep holes and scratches in it I had to actually add some material and sand everything smooth... Took forever but it does look a lot better now.

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Bike was finally in one color.

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Added in some Spoke Spinz for a good measure

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Clutch was next, it was always kinda funny since I got the bike but one day I was going WOT to clear a yellow light at an intersection and above 5k got nothing but clutch slip. It got progressively worse so I pulled it apart again. Replaced pretty much everything in there with mostly OEM stuff besides: Barnett clutch, Hinson Clutch Basket, XRs Only HD clutch springs. Also since the bike was an 01 I changed over the clutch bushing to the updated one.


Clutch carnage


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Don't have much for pictures of that for some reason besides drilling out the rivets on the stock basket.

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And that's pretty much where I am at now.



Stuff thats on order/ waiting to be installed.

- Spal 4" fan, thermostat (190 on, 165 off)

- EK Chain 520 RXOZ SM Series 120 Links Gold  (red was almost $100 more, it was tempting)

- volt guage

- header wrap (red)

- swingarm chain adjuster bolts (broke one)

- 44T rear sprocket



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Got home today and found some presents at my door.


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Looks like I will spend the weekend at least trying to wire in the fan, more details on the install in the next post.

Just FYI, the adapter you need for the radiator hose is a 22mm like in the picture above... The fan kit I bought off ebay (that said it would fit the xr650r) came with a 32mm adapter that was bigger then the hose that was suppose to go over it... Koso makes cheap smaller sizes for ATVs though and it seem like it will work now.


The EK SM chain does seem a little smaller then my RK chain that came with the bike, so it will hopefully not gouge up the tire as bad, just waiting on a new chain slider and that will be ready to go on along with hardened swingarm adjuster bolts.




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Nice to see new life being breathed into a brp. Keep up the good work! I have been thinking about addind a fan to mine, how much did that kit set you back? What is all the webbing for?


Thank you.

The kit was $75, but it was pieced together by someone who decided to sell it (think it was because it wouldn't run with the stock stator). I did find directions online on how to make a bracket for one a while ago, but this kit came with one that fit perfectly and was very well made (wish I knew where it came from). It also came with the wrong size adapter that goes into the radiator hose... I will go into more detail on everything once I try to install it this weekend.


The red webbing that your talking about is header wrap. With my oversized tank the fan is super close to the radiator and the exhaust is close to everything as well. So I'm hoping it will help insulate everything a little bit (plus the PO took off the head shield and sometimes I feel the top of my boot get very warm).

Had no idea they came in different colors, I tried using 2" wide one I had left over from another project but it was too hard to get tight on the small diameter pipe, so this one is 1" wide.

Edited by RadRider77
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Well I didn't get as much done as I wanted today, mainly because the high today was only like 45 and it was windy as hell.

The first thing I worked on was the header wrap, with everything being so close to the exhaust on these bikes this should be a must. I have done it before, but a few tips for the people doing it the first time is

1. Wear Gloves (thick ones, fiberglass strands in your skin will make you itch for a long time)

2. Soak the wrap in hot water (it makes it softer and easier to work with along with being able to stretch it and wrap it tighter)

3. Hold the end you start with a zip tie (that was in case you mess up or pull the wrap from under the tie you don't waste an expensive stainless clamp)


I had 2" wrap laying around but it is too think for this tiny diameter pipe, so I bought some 1" on ebay for cheap and was happy to find they make this stuff in colors now.


I did not have the tank on it to start as I was working on the fan so I never got to burn the wrap in and I stopped there with it since it was getting way too windy.


I did finish the fan though.

The kit did come with a bracket that worked out great. The only thing I had to change in the bracket is drill out the holes bigger for the bigger bolts I put in it. There is directins online somewhere on how to make a simpler square bracket online with dimentions.


The bracket bolts into the right side with the 3 holes that are alrdy there.



Here you can see the fan attached to the bracket with 4 allen head bolts. I did have to cut some of the fan so the bolts stayed flush.

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The holes in the radiator are huge. I wanted to get some kinda spacer in there so I could use a smaller bolt instead of getting 10 different size washers so I found a grommet kit at AutoZone that had perfect size grommets that I could sandwich between 2 washers.

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Then just bolt it all in and move onto the temp gauge.



The temp gauge is easy enough, you cut the hose and slide in it with the 2 clamps to secure it tightly. With my oversized tank I really had to get it super close to the bend under the thermostat as the tank hangs over the water neck on the engine.

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For the water temp gauge in the adapter, it came in the kit, it is internally set to close the circuit at 190 degrees and then open back up once it hits 165. That was I don't have to bother with more electronics like those adjustable ones you can get for cars. It also made for simple wiring.

Starting from the fan, connect a power wire to the one terminal of the fan, the other terminal goes into the water temp sensor, then connect another terminal to the sensor and then to a ground (they also recommend putting a 10Amp fuse in line there so I did that).


At that point I tried to start the bike to test the fan,  but I couldn't get it to start after a few kicks and got tired of the cold. So ill finish wrapping the other part of the exhaust another day and then run the bike to test it all.

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Nice work. Does it have a big stator/regulator-rectifier/battery?

Yes, it has a Rick stator 200 watt, Trail Tech regulator/rectafier,  a small 1.3 alarm battery that came with my VSM Warness from Vancouver Supermoto.


You can kinda see it all right there, fits pretty tightly under the seat.

Edited by RadRider77
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Today was definitely not my day to work on the bike.

Got the bike fired up to melt in the header wrap... well there goes the cool color.

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At this point I don't really care about ripping it back off... Gona leave a crapppy review about it though so the next guy knows better.


Went ahead and left the bike running for a bit to see if the fan will work.... hit 210 and never turned on, I got scared and turn the bike off... the sensor was also leaking fluid out of the treads. I took it back out and put more teflon tape on it and tried to tighten in more.... Results

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Then I moved onto putting on the 44T rear sprocket which was simple enough, then changed the rubber chain slider and cut the new chain to length... This is where thing started to go south.

Trying to adjust the bolt on the swing arm and it snapped the end portion....

Ok no problem, most people say they snap it in the swing arm so I was lucky. I had enough threads left that I just put 2 bolts back to back and worked some more of the threads out that way... After a while even that stopped working and so I got a friend to weld the nuts together and hopefully get the rest of it off.



So that worked to get a few more threads out and then this....



FML, called it a night and beat my head on the wall...

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Wow. Sit back throw back a few and relax. Tomorrow is a new day

Yeah at that point I just had to.... well spent sometime at work today working on the radiator adapter and got the threaded part of the sensor out and cleaned up the threads so I'm good there.

Spent a good portion of the day looking up what other people did for the swing arm, and I'm not sure what to try first.


1. One solution was to file the edge that snapped off flat and dremel a slot into it for a flat screwdriver.... but if I snapped it off with 2 welded nuts that I was undoing with a 3/8 wrench whats the chances of getting it to budge with a screw driver....


2. Another option someone suggested was the easy out.... id have to file it straight and center punch it and drill a small hole to start it... my issue with that is that because the drill has to clear the wing arm it will have to be quite a long drill bit which dont really come in small sizes.... and it also seems like a lot of people ended up snapping the easy out, and then your really stuck in shit creep without a paddle...


3. Option Im leaning at most now is to just drill it out with a bit that a couple sizes smaller and hopefully not f up the threads, and then just run it with a thread chaser.... figure worst scenerio if i hit the threads is to drill it out bigger and put a fitting in or just tap it for the next size and put a bigger bolt in there.... and order a gallon of anti seize..


Has anyone else here had to deal with a snapped off adjuster bolt? what method worked for you?

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I wonder if it would screw back in? You think it would work to thread two nuts on, tighten against each other then get it started back in then center punch and drill and try to just spin the rest of the bolt into the swing arm. I just throwing out ideas.


When I had the 2 nuts welded, I was going back and forth to work in the penetrating spray and slowly backed it out more and more, so the threads sticking out should be pretty clean. I wish I knew how much of the swing arm is threaded so I know how far I need to go. So you might be onto something, but there is maybe enough threads for one nut which wont do much.

I do think just drilling it out is the best way to go, even if i get it thru and the end piece breaks off in the swing arm, I can just chase the threads and use some expanding foam (another suggestion online) inside the swing arm so it keeps the loose parts in there from rattling around.



Found a new option, "swing arm buddy."  Read about it on http://www.xr650rforum.com/t1450p25-my-xrr-or-all-i-want-for-christmas-is-a-bionic-leg with good results. Still requires drilling it out and all, but then you can just press in the new insert and won't have to worry about the dissimilar metals bonding together.  Ordered a kit, so when it gets here next week hopefully I'll work on getting the bolt drilled out.

Edited by RadRider77
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Finally got some time to get back to the bike and finish the mess of the swing arm.

From reading other posts about the easy outs I decided to just bypass that step and go ahead and drill out the bolt. That started off pretty bad as well though, first I just sanded the end of the bolt totally flat and got it ready for the center punch... for some reason I could not find one in my garage anywhere and it was kinda too late to go get one so I had to sacrifice an old screw driver. It was already pretty beat up and it was bent, so after a couple mins in the vice with a hammer and another minute on the grinder I made myself a very sharp and tough center punch.

Lined in up in the center, a good wack with a hammer and it looked pretty spot on. Followed it by another blow from the hammer for a good measure and moved onto a 1/8 inch drill bit.


Well, even with the drill bit as far out as possible in the drill gun was just barely enough to clear the back part and this is as far as I could get...


So the following day I went to Home Depot and picked up these 2 guys. Sorry its a bit blurry, but they are 1/8 and a 1/4 sizes.


The 1/8 one was probably 2x the length that I needed and when ever I was applying some pressure the whole drill bit would bow out and I thought I was going to snap it.. So I did end up chopping off like 8 inches from it with the dremel and it made the whole operation a lot easier.


The bolt is probably a good solid 4 inches in the swing arm. Next I followed up with the 1/4 bit. I was hoping to just go thru the center and leave the threads untouched and then just thread chase the hole and put a stock bolt in, however after I drilled it out with the 1/4 I could see that it was probably not as straight as it seemed and the threads were pretty beat on the bottom.

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I did order the "swing arm buddy" just in case and it worked out pretty good.


Couple notes on it though.. It came with the drill bit (think it was 3/8), but the insert you hammer into the swing arm is an odd thread and you can't use the factory adjuster on it. Nothing really too bad with that besides the problem that  the hex on the end of the adjuster is huge, think it was like a 13mm instead of maybe like a 9 mm on the stocker, so it is a pain to adjust cause you can no longer use a socket with a ratchet on it, you have to get an open wrench from the side.

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Overall though, It was not as bad as I thought it was going to be. I probably didnt need to drill it 3 sizes either, since trying to drill the 3/8 after the 1/4 really did not want to keep itself centered. So if I had to do it again, I'd just drill out the 1/8 and then hit with the bit that came with the kit and called it a day. I'm very happy at least this part of the bike is finally done and over with.

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Alright, got everything on the swing arm done. Put the new chain on finally and got it adjusted, but when I roll the wheel the chain makes noise.. So seems the old chain wore groves into the bottom chain roller and since the new chain is narrower it was kinda bouncing along. So a new roller is on order along with some new rear wheel seals and bearings while I'm at it.



Next to finally fix the radiator fan setup. I was looking on Trail Techs website and they listed a whole cooling setup for Honda (that fits CRFs) and it had a programmable on/off for the fan along with a little read out. It also had a probe that went into the CRF radiator drain plug... which I don't have.  I got talking to Justin at Trail Tech and he was able to send me parts of a kit that you could not get on the site separate. Here are the numbers if anyone is interested.


732P-S00: TTV panel mount fan kit meter. 

7500-3060: 22mm Inline temp sensor. 

732-WH1: Fan kit harness.


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The fan kit harness is not necessary really, it just has a inline fuse and the connector for the fan meter for the power. Which you can actually buy at Radio Quack ( I will try to get a pic of the part number tomorrow) if you don't wanna cut the connectors off the meter.


I didn't really have a place to put the meter along with my volt gauge so I made myself a little panel box to attach to the bars, along with a turn signal indicator since I never know if they are on always randomly tape the cancel button just in case. More info later once I finish it and run the wires.


The Batman duck tape was the best I could muster at the time since it was like 35 all day and wayyy too cold to paint. Eventually it will be painted black




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