Out of options...What am I forgetting?

[Dust_Devil]

You need to remove all jets, the fuel screw, the accelerator pump, and the slide.

 

Then you need to blow out all the orifices and the accel pump nozzle with spray shit and compressed air.

 

Then you need to check your squirt.

 

Then you need to make sure your floating plate seal is not upside down.

 

Good idea to get an o-ring kit and an 08 accel pump kit for re-assembly.

 

Unless you have done this you are spinning your wheels.

[WhiskeyBadger]

Yes, I pulled the carb completely out when I rejetted since I needed to get it out of the way to rebuild the starter motor.  There wasn't any dirt in there and the passages were clear, of course I did miss the clogged pilot jet, so is there anything else I should be checking?

 

 

Ok, from reading some other threads, It does sound like my shifter fork is bent, I will dig in there tonight and see what I can find.  I'll post what I find

 

 

Ok, So the shift issue has been resolved.

 

Had pretty much the same problem as this guy:

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1055942-2008-450-shifter-end-play-shift-collar/

 

I know that when I had the right side cover off, I was messing with the shift lever.  The arm mustve gotten on top of the collar, then when i clicked down to first, there was nothing to lift it back to neutral.  I'm putting it back together now, Will report back after I try starting in neutral.

 

I see the light at the end of the tunnel...hoping its not a train

[WhiskeyBadger]

So no go. Pulled the carb out and I cleaned every tube, jet and orifice. the plug was still wet so I swapped out the 48 for a 45 and put the jet needle back to 3rd clip. Still 170 main.

The only other thing I can think of is the valves being tight but it ran before I took it apart so it should run right??

[StonedInNy]

That should have been the first thing you took care of. Tight intakes = no start when cold.

[WhiskeyBadger]

That should have been the first thing you took care of. Tight intakes = no start when cold.

It just baffles me that it won't start at all. Before the teardown it wasn't hard to start at all, and since I didn't touch the valves or change anything there, I feel like I it should still start right?

I know those need to be addressed next, but I wanted to make sure that the problem wasn't in anything that I've been tweaking with

[Dust_Devil]

Forgive me for not reading all of it over again.

 

Got spark?  It is easy for wires @coil to fall of during dis/re-assembly.

[WhiskeyBadger]

Forgive me for not reading all of it over again.

Got spark? It is easy for wires @coil to fall of during dis/re-assembly.

No problem, it's a long post haha.

Yes I do have a spark, brand new plug, looks good

[StonedInNy]

It just baffles me that it won't start at all. Before the teardown it wasn't hard to start at all, and since I didn't touch the valves or change anything there, I feel like I it should still start right?

I know those need to be addressed next, but I wanted to make sure that the problem wasn't in anything that I've been tweaking with

Valves don't act like that one day it starts next time no. You aren't even close to spec. Shim them to take it out of the equation. Edited November 16, 2014 by StonedInNy

[realfun1]

Yes valves can do that. The last time it ran was your last Howrah. My bike ran Perfect on a all day ride. The next week. The bike wouldn't start. The valves were done. It gave me no warning at all. If your bike has more than 200 hrs on it. That could be your problem. Check your valves! Take that out of the equation. When you check the valve with the decompression lever. You need to use two feeler gauges. One for the valve clearance and one for the decompression clearance. If I remember the total should be .023 . set the valve clearance. Leave the gauge in place, than do decompression clearance? Again total .023. . If you can get those specs in place, look elsewhere.. Check the book for the correct numbers. Its been awhile I could be wrong. You still need to add both together.

Edited November 17, 2014 by realfun1

[BigRichard]

You should shim the valves but I don't think that's your culprit. If you have fuel, spark and compression it should start even with a .09 gap. Its got to be something else. Look for the obvious - I worked on a bike for 3 months only to find out my kid had turned the idle all the way down.

[Dust_Devil]

You should shim the valves but I don't think that's your culprit. If you have fuel, spark and compression it should start even with a .09 gap. Its got to be something else. Look for the obvious - I worked on a bike for 3 months only to find out my kid had turned the idle all the way down.

 

Good idea!

[WhiskeyBadger]

IT STARTED! Such an awesome sound. The intake valve on the leftside was so tight. Went from at 1.70 shim to a 1.40 to get it in spec. Got it buttoned up and first button press and Braaaaapppp!!

Thanks for all your help, I've learned a ton.

[StonedInNy]

Good deal. Glad ya got it running.

[realfun1]

IT STARTED! Such an awesome sound. The intake valve on the leftside was so tight. Went from at 1.70 shim to a 1.40 to get it in spec. Got it buttoned up and first button press and Braaaaapppp!!

Thanks for all your help, I've learned a ton.

your valve adj. Will be short lived tho. Start getting prepared for a valve job. Once they need adjustment. $$. . Install with SS valves and your problem won't happen again.