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2013 KX 450f problem


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Alright TT,

This is driving me nuts.  It started off as a random bog, and then it became hard to start when hot and was steadily getting worse and harder to start.  Took it to a shop and then put their scanner on it but there is no engine light on so their scanner showed nothing.  They said it ran fine and started fine even when hot.  As soon as i get it back from them it became really hard to start when cold also.  Tested the resistance on the stator and seemed to be funny readings kind of jumping all over the place.  Also checked voltage output at half throttle and it read 5 volts.  Service manual says it should be at least 37 volts at 4000 rpms.  I can unplug the stator, plug it into the wiring harness from Kawasaki that reads the codes when hooked up to 12 volts and you can hear the fuel pump come on and run for a few secons and cuts off.  After that, plug that stator back in and it will fire right up first kick.  So I assume its a bad stator.  Ordered a new one from Kawasaki and put it in and it does the exact same thing.  still hard to start even when cold.  haven't ridden it yet because obviously the problem isnt fixed.  but everything ive read and tested is pointing at the stator.  has anyone ever gotten a bad new stator or does anyone have any input on this? i've checked all the electrical connections and put the dilectric grease in all plugs.  The bike did sit for 3 months due to an injury and first ride back, it started the bog and has gone downhill since.Any help is appreciated!

 

 

thank you

 

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Have you checked out put of the new stator?  How about the capacitor?

 

I have also seen flywheels cause this problem.  The best option is to have a known good donor bike to borrow parts from and do tests on until you find the solution.  You could check the stator output of a donor bike to see if it matches yours.

 

I am actually fighting a similar problem on a 2011 KX450f.  The only symptom is it now takes 6 to 10 kicks to start after it has been sitting an hour or more.  As you know, they normally start in 3 or less.  I am certain it's not a valve train issue.

 

I just started digging into this one then I had to get shoulder surgery so it will be awhile before I get back to it.

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Output of the new stator was the same as the old. 10 volts at idol and at half throttle it goes down to 5 volts. Should go up to 37 or more right? Checked the regulator last night and it's making right under 14 volts. Service manual says that should be around 14.5 volts.

It had 93 octane in it while it sat. I knew I should have drained it but didn't think about it possible screwing with the fuel pump. But the first time it was ridden it started right up on the 3rd kick. And by putting 12 volts to it and then it fires right up tells me that the fuel system is ok from what I understand

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It's weird because Output of the magneto should be 37 volts AC which I'm only getting 10. And the output of the regulator should be 14.0-14.5 volts DC and I'm getting right at 14. Everything is pointing towards a bad flywheel

 

are you getting 10 volts ac? does you meter read ac and dc voltage? Most meters you would have to switch to a different setting.

 

 

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Edited by CLacroix
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It's weird because Output of the magneto should be 37 volts AC which I'm only getting 10. And the output of the regulator should be 14.0-14.5 volts DC and I'm getting right at 14. Everything is pointing towards a bad flywheel

Also if you are getting 14 volts out of the regulator, that would lead me to believe that your magneto is working... if you mag wasn't working you wouldn't be getting anything at the regulator. 14 volts is within tolerance... how old is your spark plug? you can also check some of the other electronic components pretty easily if you have the manual... it shows it all.

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Yes I disconnected the capacitor to put 12 volts on but there's a test for the capacitor. If it holds the 12 volts after being disconnected from the battery then it is ok which his what it's doing.

And I have an auto meter so it switches from AC to DC on it's own. And yes it's still connected to the battery when I start it. I felt like I was doing everything by the book. The spark plug is the original one that came in the bike. Could that make a difference? It had plenty of spark so that's why I ruled it out. I've never had problems with spark plugs on a 4 stroke. What other electrical components are there to test? The manual says if the stator ohms out fine then the flywheel magnetism has probaby weakened

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Yes I disconnected the capacitor to put 12 volts on but there's a test for the capacitor. If it holds the 12 volts after being disconnected from the battery then it is ok which his what it's doing.

And I have an auto meter so it switches from AC to DC on it's own. And yes it's still connected to the battery when I start it. I felt like I was doing everything by the book. The spark plug is the original one that came in the bike. Could that make a difference? It had plenty of spark so that's why I ruled it out. I've never had problems with spark plugs on a 4 stroke. What other electrical components are there to test? The manual says if the stator ohms out fine then the flywheel magnetism has probaby weakened

 

Do you have another meter you can try? just to make sure... Spark plugs can do some weird things... they are cheap enough to try.... If the magneto is actually bad Its weird to me that you would get 14 volts at the regulator...

Edited by CLacroix
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Do you have another meter you can try? just to make sure... Spark plugs can do some weird things... they are cheap enough to try.... If the magneto is actually bad Its weird to me that you would get 14 volts at the regulator...

i had 3 meters and they all said the same thing.  i took it to a shop yesterday and they told me the condenser failed.  i ordered a new one and will see if thats the problem.  

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My local shop told me the condenser had failed so i ordered a new one and it didn't fix it.  the condenser did test out no good though.  I talked to a guy at rick's stator and he said if the stator tests out good then there is a 50/50 chance its the flywheel and it can steadily get worse for no reason.  which is what is happening but I really dont want to buy a new flywheel for $500 without being sure

Edited by thormx181
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My local shop told me the condenser had failed so i ordered a new one and it didn't fix it.  the condenser did test out no good though.  I talked to a guy at rick's stator and he said if the stator tests out good then there is a 50/50 chance its the flywheel and it can steadily get worse for no reason.  which is what is happening but I really dont want to buy a new flywheel for $500 without being sure

 

I'm sure you can find a known good flywheel for much less than 5 bills. 

 

I'm sure if you call Honda East and ask them to give you a racer discount you could buy a new one for around 3 to 350.

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  • 1 month later...

so im going to try to bring this topic back to life to get some more feedback.  still having issues.  Hard to start cold, runs fine until it gets hot and will either bog or not restart after being shut off. its been in and out of the same shop for 3 months...they basically tell me they've been on the phone with kawasaki this whole time and say there's no way the flywheel has gone bad.  They've tried replacing everything else electrical wise except the CDI box.  Maybe i am not understanding the flywheel and stator output voltage test.  At idle, i have 9-10 volts.  As i rev it up it goes down to 5 volts pretty much on all 3 phases.  one of them stays steady. I have been told by other people and another kawasaki shop the voltage should be 15-20 volts at idle and steadily climb to 30-40 volts as rpms go up.  does anyone know any more about stators and flywheels? they have replaced the stator twice.  That tell me it is the flywheel but the shop its at tells me all of their number are fine.  Someone please help

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