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Hey all!

 

So despite being only about 65º out and being down in a valley where it was even cooler, I managed to get my '06 WAY too hot this weekend on some tight techy single track with lots of big slick boulders.  I have a Trail Tech on there and it read 271º at its hottest.  At that point it was shut off and the fluid was boiling over a bit.

 

I know that fans are a common addition but if POSSIBLE I would like to avoid that route for now.  My buddy suggested a new radiator cap (not sure how that helps) but that was all he could really come up with....For reference, the modifications I have that I imagine have some sway on this are:

• Megabomb Header

• Q4 muffler

• Applied smog delete kit

• Devol radiator guards

 

Any suggestions are very much appreciated!

 

-Chris

 

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Just because your bike overheated once does not mean you have problem. You can put your bike on the stand in the garage at idle and it will overheat. 

 

Cool that you found a trail that is tough enough to heat up your bike. I seek them out every weekend...

Edited by JackAttack
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Hey all!

 

So despite being only about 65º out and being down in a valley where it was even cooler, I managed to get my '06 WAY too hot this weekend on some tight techy single track with lots of big slick boulders.  I have a Trail Tech on there and it read 271º at its hottest.  At that point it was shut off and the fluid was boiling over a bit.

 

I know that fans are a common addition but if POSSIBLE I would like to avoid that route for now.  My buddy suggested a new radiator cap (not sure how that helps) but that was all he could really come up with....For reference, the modifications I have that I imagine have some sway on this are:

• Megabomb Header

• Q4 muffler

• Applied smog delete kit

• Devol radiator guards

 

Any suggestions are very much appreciated!

 

-Chris

 

You make no mention of jetting

If it's stock, it will overheat

 

Going up to a 1.5 radiator cap will raise the boiling point, hence less overheating/boiling over

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I would stay away from high pressure caps. Your bike was designed to release pressure. Maybe just make sure your cap is working properly.

 

Some guys run Evans coolant. I do not think it is necessary for a singletrack bike, maybe for desert guys. I like the ability to add coolant I the field.

 

Your bike will begin to detonate and probably stop running if it gets way too hot. Just make time to let her cool down. If it is maintained properly you should be fine.

 

If the fuel in your tank is not boiling yet, you are doing well...    😏

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Fix the stock jetting and that will help quite a bit. You could also get oversized radiators for added cooling, a higher bar rating radiator cap, change coolant to water wetter or engine ice mix and put fans on. All this will help with cooling the X. Since you mentioned you still have stock jetting, I would do this first because the bike will run much better and cooler and would be the biggest help overall.

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Thanks all! I have been hesitant to ask this as I know there are so many variables out there, but in looking at the database the nearest recommendations I have found would be:

Pilot Jet: 45 
Main Jet: 165
Needle: NCVS
Needle Clip Position: 3rd
Fuel Screw Type: Stock
Fuel Screw Setting: 1.5 turns out
AP Modified: No
Leak Jet: 50

 

For reference, I ride in 40-100º temps and am usually at 500-3000 foot elevation.  Again, I am running FMF megabomb, FMF Q4, stock airbox, and smog block-off.  Any insight is appreciated. Tentatively looking at the JD setup.

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I ride in +100F temps in AZ on tight singletrack and difficult hills. On occaisions, I can smell the radiator fluid boiling into the resevoir. I go an entire season without having to add fluid, so this seems normal and expected to me. My bike is derestricted and rejetted.

Seems wrong to go to a higher pressure cap? Why not let the fluid pressure release with a stock cap and go to the resevoir? Again, I don't understand why people add the weight of a fan when its not really necessary? If your bike is boiling over more than occaisionally on very hot days riding difficult terrain, shouldnt you just solve the problem with slightly richer jetting?

Seems high pressure caps and fans are just masking the symptom of too lean jetting?

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Are those Boysen super cooler kits worth it or just a waste of $200?  

 

I am starting to have more and more boil over issues on my bike, maybe I am riding it longer with less breaks then when I started. I feel my jetting is set right, I don't have the number right but will look in the garage and see if I have them written down, they are not stock numbers that's for sure. I replaced the radiators with cheap Chinese ones that are a little bigger then stock and run engine ice but that doesn't really seem to help. I am about to install a fan since I am not really sure what else to do (assuming jetting is good) other then run a waterless coolant and or one of those Boysen deals. I run the same stuff Sofiedog does (both of us being in Tucson).  Even had the damn thing boil on me last week when it was only 80 out. 

Edited by rharr
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I am ordering stuff to rework my carb today but had a few quick questions.  If it looks like I am ordering anything wrong, please let me know:

 

• 2008 AP Diaphragm kit

• NCVS Needle (planning to run in 3rd position)

• Keihin Pilot Jet (48)

• Merge Racing AP Spring

• Keihin Leak Jet (50)

• Main Jet (???) Or should I just order the JD Jet Kit? What all does this include besides mains and needles (I would not get the NCVS needle then, I imagine)

• Anything else?

 

2006 450X - Megabomb Header, Q4 Muffler, Applied Emissions Block Off, Stock airbox, NoToil Filters

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Double check the pilot jet size for your altitude. I think the 45 would be better for your altitude. (I'm running a 45 and had no issues last weekend at 0- 4000'.)

I think the OEM needle is a NCVS if I am remembering correctly but wouldn't hurt to replace it to take it out of the equation.

The JD jet kit is nice because you get the correct sizes for most setups but you would still need to order the leak jet separately because they don't come with them. The needle is different in the kit but its also a good needle. Most setups either use the needles that come in the JD kit or the NCVS. Both are good.

Update the diaphragm and spring with either the Merge or the Tokyo Mods spring. The Tokyo Mods spring I believe was even stiffer then the Merge from all the research I had done when doing my carb.

You may want to also get a manual cam chain tensioner. The OEM ones had issues and would eventually fail.

*Don't mix manufacturers of jets. They are not all the same and the numbers from one brand are not the same as another brand. 👍

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