Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Powdercoat costs?

Recommended Posts

How much should i expect to pay to get my frame amd swingarm powdercoated? I assume you should have all the bearings out right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know how much people charge for it I have done it before but my buddy did it and anyways only cost me the price of powder. But the reason I replied is... Dude don't do it it looks cool at first but not worth it. Especially if you have to pay for it...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How much should i expect to pay to get my frame amd swingarm powdercoated? I assume you should have all the bearings out right?

Prices vary for many reasons. Make sure it's a reputable place. If it's done right it will last for YEARS. Also if done right. You should be able to hit it with a hammer and the metal dent and the powder coat conform to the metal in tact. It will be marred but still stuck to the metal. Yes remove all bearings and fasteners. You will have to tap holes and sand bearing surfaces when you get the items back. Be sure to shop around.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sand bearing surfaces????? HUH????? Remove the races, and ask the coater to mask the area, so you can get the race back in. Thread old bolts into all threaded holes before sand blasting, and coating, to preserve threads. Although pc is one tough paint, I am not exactly sold on it for dirtbike frames. It will chip, and wear, and from what I hear, is a real bugger to touchup, and ends up looking like ass

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sand bearing surfaces????? HUH????? Remove the races, and ask the coater to mask the area, so you can get the race back in. Thread old bolts into all threaded holes before sand blasting, and coating, to preserve threads. Although pc is one tough paint, I am not exactly sold on it for dirtbike frames. It will chip, and wear, and from what I hear, is a real bugger to touchup, and ends up looking like ass

Emery cloth or scotch brite. Not 60 grit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll answer your question. It's cost about 150 to 250. They need to stip it clean by sand blasting. Apparently other people hate it. It isn't a armor coating but it holds up much better than paint for me. I've done it 2x and will do it again. I had my frames done a satin black. Gloss is very shiny and shows imperfections big time

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a buddy that owns a powdercoating business, and luckily, he powdercoats stuff free for me. I think he normally charges about $200 to do a frame.

The finished product is awesome. Like others here have mentioned, the finish is extremely durable.

Here's a 1986 and a 1995 CR125 frame, freshly powdercoated...

Picture245.jpg

And the 1986, close-up shot...

Picture243.jpg

The '86 finished, minus the motor...

Picture258-1.jpg

I found that '86 swingarm on ebay, beariings and all, new old stock never used, for $25. What a deal.

Anybody have a good '86 CR125 motor (with a good clutch cover) for sale?? I'm looking for one...

Randy

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Coated swingarms look horrible. A nice condition brush finish on the swingarm is about as good looking as you can get, the only color to ever do a swingarm otherwise is black..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Emery cloth or scotch brite. Not 60 grit.

Ya, you go and sand pc off with emery, or scotch brite. Let us know how far you get with that

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you ever had anything powder coated? Shops don't intentionally PC races and bolt holes. But PC is statically charged and can be drawn into any crack or crevice or improperly masked area. Prep work may be required before finally assembly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just recently priced having my frame and swingarm done by the best shop in town and it was $250 for the pair.

Sounds pretty fair, cost me about $110 per. Of the 2 frames I had done. Both looked virtually unmolested when I sold them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got an estimate of $350-$400 for coating my frame, subframe, and swingarm, from a recommended local shop. At this point that's a lot more than I'm willing to spend!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By FOXBROOK
      One little spill today and snap. Levers are crap



    • By BDubb106
      Just as the title says... I enjoy looking through the rebuild threads, but what I love more than that is seeing the pics of the neglected machine givin a second chance to be cared for without having to read through 30+ pages to see them. So lets see the pics and give a slight description of what you found when you tore the bike apart.
      I just got into doing complete rebuilds and did one last winter and this winter. I plan on making this a hobby and doing one rebuild a year.
      Here is the first one. 00' Yz 125 I bought for $400 with a seized crank, top end was destroyed and the bike had more rust on it than a car thats sat at the junk yard for 10 years, and the suspension was the same.
      Before:

      After:

      My second was a 96' Yz 250 that was shoved in the back of a garage, missing parts, most bearings on the bike had never been greased let alone changed. Top end was on its last leg and out of spec. and most seals on the bike were dry rotted.
      Before:

      After:

      Still need tires and a graphics kit but she's 100% mechanically sound and super tight.

    • By Jmac310
      hey everyone, i am a pretty new rider, im 6'2 260lbs, i just started 3 years ago. i am 22 and i started on a 1995 xr250 and now i have a 2005 crf 450r. i wanted to see what other people thought about what bikes are better for guys my size. also what kinda parts should i get for my bike. and finally is there any special riding styles or technic i should try to focus on?
    • By Chevrolet396
      First off, here's some background info...I currently ride a 300ex thats pretty much stock besides an fmf exhaust and jetted. I really want to get a bike because im done with ATV's. The only experience i have on a bike is a crf150f i road for awhile a few years ago. Im about 6'1" and 205 lbs. Im trying to stay away from a 250F because i dont wanna deal with the cursed valves and other complexities on those pigs. ive narrowed it down to either a yz125 or a yz250. I know the 125 would be better to start on, but im worried that I will grow out of the power too quickly because of my size. I mostly ride trails and field, but when i get a bike ill go to the track every now and then. I guess my main question is will the 125 be too small? and will the 250 be too much? Any answers will be greatly appreciated!
    • By jacej86
      Hey Guys,
      I got a DR 650 about 2 months ago, and ever since I've had it it has gotten terrible mpg (best 34 mpg, worst 30 mpg) When I got it, it was a bone stock 06 DR650 with 18,000 miles on it (very clean). At first I noticed an oil leak from the infamous cam chain tensioner gasket, which I promptly replaced. After that I changed spark plugs (ngk cr9ek), new air fliter (twin air), and added a jet kit (pro cycle w/ air box mod). Before the procycle jet kit I had to switch to reserve consistently at 88 to 91 miles on the trip meter. I just got done tuning the carb with jet kit, and I had to switch over to reserve at 73 miles. The carb is tuned with the 155 procycle/mikuni main jet (or the 165 for you dynojet guys) on the 5th notch of the procycle needle jet, counting from the top down. I know it sounds a little rich, but it's what the engine liked. Also when I got the bike it never needed to be choked, even when it was 35 degrees out, just two hits of the starter and I cranked right up. The OEM choke cable was seized up and would not move, so when I put the procycle jet kit on, I replaced it with a knob choke, which got it starting up like a normal engine, ie) need choke when cold. I have replaced the o rings on the carb float, and set to proper float height, along with all new carb gaskets.  I will say though with all the jetting and new toy syndrome I have been driving the bike like a bat out of hell and have had long idles to warm up engine for jetting purposes, but it is hard to believe that that could have that much of an effect on my mpg.
       
      Any idea what could be causing this terrible gas mileage? It runs real strong, but something has got to be going on considering the mpgs this bike is supposed to be getting. Thanks all, this site members have helped me get at least this far with diagnosing.... I'm thinking dragging brake pad or bad fuel petcock. I don't think it's leaking gas through the stump into the oil, or else it would be way too full. Please help...I need to get better gas milage than a 4 door sedan 
×