Jump to content

Blown fuse need help / advice


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I got a set of moose racing / heat demon grip warmer pads to go underneath my grips for the winter season. I blew a fuse when installing the red tap connector.

Heres what i did:

Following the thick cable coming from the turn signal, horn, high beam box on the left (clutch side) down to the coupler which there's 7 seperate wires going into, I took the yellow with white tracer wire and clamped it together with the red tap connector of my grip warmers.

From my research this was the head light wire which would be a solid power source which is connected which the main power of the bike.

Once connecting to this wire i turned the bike (not started, just turned the key so lights came on. ) and everything worked perfect. Turn signals, high beans, horn, indicator lights ect.. now. ...

To make sure i had power through to the other end of my 12VDC power wire which attaches to the heater, I grabbed a multimeter, holding one end against the negative prong on the battery and with the other (red) put it against the open 12vDC power wire which was supposed to attach to and PoPP!!

1416369389750.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You probably had your meter on the wrong scale.  Test meter needs to be set to volts.  Replace the fuse located just above the battery and you will be good to go.  20 amp blade type fuse. If it has not already been used, there is a spare fuse someplace near the one in service.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the meter was set to volts would it be impossible to blow a fuse that way? I have replaced the fuse but not done anything further. I was going to take off the red tap and sauder the wire back together and choose another wire to get power from.

would that wire i choose being the wire for starter button and engine off switch have something to do with the fuse blowing?

I got this chart for the drz switches which tells me thats what the orange with white tracer wire is.

1416444273432.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the meter was set to volts would it be impossible to blow a fuse that way?------Nothing is impossible, but unless the meter is defective, a volt meter will not blow fuses.  The fuse blew because somehow you temporarily touched a hot wire to ground.

 

I was going to take off the red tap and solder the wire back together and choose another wire to get power from-------It makes no difference what wire you choose to tap for power to you grips. It all comes thru the same fuse, same main power wire, and same ignition switch.  Choose any wire that has power on it with the key on.

would that wire I choose being the wire for starter button and engine off switch have something to do with the fuse blowing---------No

I got this chart for the DRZ switches which tells me thats what the orange with white tracer wire is.-------Orange wire with white trace is power to the CDI.

 

 

Now is about the time that someone recommends you add a relay to power your grip warmers.  A recent post covers this in detail  https://thumpertalk.com/topic/1111854-drz-accessorybattery-question/

 
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noble, on 19 Nov 2014 - 8:01 PM, said:

 

Now is about the time that someone recommends you add a relay to power your grip warmers.  A recent post covers this in detail  https://thumpertalk.com/topic/1111854-drz-accessorybattery-question/

 

 

I was hoping you would link that thread for him 👍... Chubs, read that thread, if you need help and would like to go the relay route (recommended), I could try to explain how I recently wired up my heated grips. Your not gonna like it very much though, if your gonna do it, you should do it right, lots of soldering and shrink tubing and such. Definitely doesn't involve using those cheap and easy tap connectors. I would avoid using things like that at all costs when it comes to a motorcycles electrical system, no way to guarantee they'll make a good connection. There is no substitute for doing this the right way, took me 9 hours in my garage to finish, but that's because im meticulous.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guess there is only one way to find out for sure. Just make sure you have good connections, and make sure you're trying the correct wires, I don't believe you should be tapping into any yellow white tracer wires, i don't know exactly what that's for, but doesn't sound right. Try the orange (ignition) wire if that's the way you want to approach it, in my opinion though, horrible, horrible idea doing it that way. Like Noble says, you need a relay if you want your accessories to work on switched power. You don't want to put that much load on your OEM wiring. If you don't want to wire in a relay, then hook it straight to the battery and use the supplied switch to turn them on and off. I believe those are your only sensible options.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok thanks for the info man I apreciaite it alot. The one i have tapped into is orange with white tracer which is one of the wires in the cable that comes from the signals, hi beam, horn, box on the left handle bar. I was going to continue to follow the instructions using that wire tapped and set it up with the switch to change from hi to low and off heat settings. I didnt want it to be permently on when the bike is on and not have a way of controlling it.

What would happen if i had done that?

**I am taking your advice and wiring to the battery instead.. where on the battery to i tap into and where do i attach the ground wire?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't do any "tapping". Follow the instructions on your heated grips, figure out which wire(s) goes to positive and which wire(s) goes to negative. Attach the positive lead for the heated grip to the positive terminal on the battery, then attach the negative lead for the heated grip to the negative terminal on the battery, using ring terminals, simple. This way, you'll have constant power from the battery to your heated grips, unless you turn off the switch, which you'll need to remember to do. I don't have any experience with your particular grip heaters, but it should work this way without problems, unless there is something special about them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah crap the wires are not long enough to reach the battery. In the instructions there are no negative and positives. they just give you that red tap connector with a wire attached to it and tell you to tap into the ignition power wire then plug that into the switch.

Heres a pic of the instruction

1416472220848.jpg

1416472238123.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah crap the wires are not long enough to reach the battery. In the instructions there are no negative and positives. they just give you that red tap connector with a wire attached to it and tell you to tap into the ignition power wire then plug that into the switch.

Heres a pic of the instruction

The grip panels them self's have no polarity requirements, one needs to be grounded, the other supplied power.

 

Please consider NOT wiring directly to a battery..it will only take a few minutes of leaving them on (ok an hour) and you will have a dead battery.

 

Please consider using a switched relay to supply fused  battery voltage to the grip heater switch.

 

After the grip panels are installed under the grips, use a pea sized blob of RTV to "secure" the wires where they exit the grips. It will act somewhat as a strain relief allowing the panels to last a bit longer. More important on the throttle side. 

 

You can use any wire that is powered by the ignition switch to trigger the relay as the relay draws only a few watts.

Use 12 gauge tinned multiply strand primary wire. I prefer marine grade as the insulation is usually better and the wire strands always tined for more corrosion protection.

Each connection should be soldiered or use good crimp connectors crimped with a crimping tool. Protect all connections with heat shrink tube.. better if it is adhesive lined like the 3M™ dual wall adhesive lined Heat Shrink Tubing EPS-300

 

 

GripHeaterInstall.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The grip panels them self's have no polarity requirements, one needs to be grounded, the other supplied power.

Please consider NOT wiring directly to a battery..it will only take a few minutes of leaving them on (ok an hour) and you will have a dead battery.

Please consider using a switched relay to supply fused battery voltage to the grip heater switch.

After the grip panels are installed under the grips, use a pea sized blob of RTV to "secure" the wires where they exit the grips. It will act somewhat as a strain relief allowing the panels to last a bit longer. More important on the throttle side.

You can use any wire that is powered by the ignition switch to trigger the relay as the relay draws only a few watts.

Use 12 gauge tinned multiply strand primary wire. I prefer marine grade as the insulation is usually better and the wire strands always tined for more corrosion protection.

Each connection should be soldiered or use good crimp connectors crimped with a crimping tool. Protect all connections with heat shrink tube.. better if it is adhesive lined like the 3M™ dual wall adhesive lined Heat Shrink Tubing EPS-300

GripHeaterInstall.jpg

You are right, he should do this, but as he says, he has no electrical experience, he's not sure on how to extend wires let alone wiring in a relay system and a fuse and soldering all joints and exposed wires along the way and not forgetting to put the shrink tubing ON the wire before soldering together (I'm sure we've all done that one). I just did it for my first time the other day, and it took me quite a long time, but I had basic electrical and soldering skills to help me along the way. That being said, what would you recommend for a beginner to do? I still say, he needs to hook it straight to power like the instructions say, but beginner shouldn't be cutting into ingnition wires, that could open another set of problems that he won't be sure how to handle. So Chubs, only you can assess your skills and determine the safest course of action. I'd say if your hell bent on doing it yourself, extend those wires and hook to the battery, I can even help you do that with step by step pictures. Otherwise it would be highly advised to listen to Noble And E.Marquez and do this the right way, with a relay, an inline fuse, soldering iron, solder, shrink tubing, an assortment of connectors and ring terminals, and some 18 ga and 14 ga wire. Do you know anybody who could help you out with this? Someone you could take it to?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are right, he should do this, but as he says, he has no electrical experience, he's not sure on how to extend wires let alone wiring in a relay system and a fuse and soldering all joints and exposed wires along the way and not forgetting to put the shrink tubing ON the wire before soldering together (I'm sure we've all done that one). I just did it for my first time the other day, and it took me quite a long time, but I had basic electrical and soldering skills to help me along the way. That being said, what would you recommend for a beginner to do? I still say, he needs to hook it straight to power like the instructions say, but beginner shouldn't be cutting into ingnition wires, that could open another set of problems that he won't be sure how to handle. So Chubs, only you can assess your skills and determine the safest course of action. I'd say if your hell bent on doing it yourself, extend those wires and hook to the battery, I can even help you do that with step by step pictures. Otherwise it would be highly advised to listen to Noble And E.Marquez and do this the right way, with a relay, an inline fuse, soldering iron, solder, shrink tubing, an assortment of connectors and ring terminals, and some 18 ga and 14 ga wire. Do you know anybody who could help you out with this? Someone you could take it to?

I understand your position, and yet.

I choose not to do my own dental work..I have some of the tools, and a basic understanding of filling a cavity yet I understand the task is best left up to someone more experienced with the right tools.

Same concept should be used by the DIY....... if your willing to do the research, ask questions, read the manual, use the right tools... most any job can be tackled.. if your not interested in doing that, it'll be cheaper and more reliable in the end to secure the services of someone else for the job.  

I've watched many a tech spend 30 min or more with a pair of wire cutters on a customers bike just so the requested job could be completed... that means the customer PAID for that time to have his hack work removed, placed in a plastic bag and returned to him when he comes to pick up the machine after servicing. 

I have other options and simply turn down jobs that come to me wired with electrical cord, speaker wire, T taps ect unless the rider agrees to have it all removed (at his cost) or removed and re installed correctly. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nevermindpulse is right. I have no skills in the electrical field and I'm confident i could tackle the job if i had 2 full days to work snd research it but, unfortunately I don't have that time right now and won't until a few weeks away. I am riding 130kms to my ski cabin tomorrow and needed the heat for the ride and while riding around up there.

Originally I was just gonna do it off at a shop and get them to install them even though i enjoy working on my own bike and like to learn new skills and of course save some money and most importantly, know what has been done (i dont trust sone shops as they just do the minimum lazyiest jobs sometimes just say its complete and get it out of there. They don't treat it like it's something of their own or of value to them which imo they should. Also, i called to get a quote and they said 260$ to install them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just remember what Noble said, he said the Orange with white tracer wire is for power to the CDI. I would imagine that is not a good wire to tap into. Seal that one back up and try the solid orange ignition wire. And btw, I just added some pictures and details to my "Drz accessories/battery question" thread https://thumpertalk.com/topic/1111854-drz-accessorybattery-question/page-2 explaining how I hooked up my heated grips using a relay. Might be worth the read incase you want to do it the right way in the future. Good luck on your trip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for helping and the info. I dont mean to be ignorant by just doing it the cheap crappy way and not take your advice, i just had no time and it really was my only option for now.

I will be pulling them off to Re do with relay and what you all said to go with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...