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Rekluse on the street


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 I bought a used one a while back and haven't put it on.  The bike is 95% street use with motard setup.  Anyone using it primarily for street riding and what do you think?  I expect most of the advantages to be in off road conditions, but would be nice to take off from stops with no clutch. Not that it's a big deal.  😉

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It will be interesting to see what people have to say on this.  Obviously auto clutches have tremendous advantages in the dirt according to auto clutch users.  On pavement the only possible advantages that I can see would be on the starts and to keep the engine from stalling at any time.

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 I bought a used one a while back and haven't put it on.  The bike is 95% street use with motard setup.  Anyone using it primarily for street riding and what do you think?  I expect most of the advantages to be in off road conditions, but would be nice to take off from stops with no clutch. Not that it's a big deal.   😉

How do those work?  

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I have put 30,000 miles on mine. Draw backs are you are essentially clutch less shifting. Tranny is starting to shift not as nice as it used too. Its hard on oil. Shifts harder after about 1000 miles. Likes 10W50 best. Its great for lugging thourgh neihborhoods @25mph in 5th gear with my loud exhaust. I try to limit my down shifts on pavement. remember once rpms are above lockup, about 2500 you are cluthless shifting.

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pjk, on 20 Nov 2014 - 4:25 PM, said:

I have put 30,000 miles on mine. Draw backs are you are essentially clutch less shifting. Tranny is starting to shift not as nice as it used too. Its hard on oil. Shifts harder after about 1000 miles. Likes 10W50 best. Its great for lugging thourgh neihborhoods @25mph in 5th gear with my loud exhaust. I try to limit my down shifts on pavement. remember once rpms are above lockup, about 2500 you are cluthless shifting.

That does not sound at all pleasant. I think i'll stick with my manual clutch. And what about wheelies?? I guess you can't really do those anymore. Sounds highly ineffective for a supermoto.

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I have put 30,000 miles on mine. Draw backs are you are essentially clutch less shifting. Tranny is starting to shift not as nice as it used too. Its hard on oil. Shifts harder after about 1000 miles. Likes 10W50 best. Its great for lugging thourgh neihborhoods @25mph in 5th gear with my loud exhaust. I try to limit my down shifts on pavement. remember once rpms are above lockup, about 2500 you are cluthless shifting.

 

I thought you still had use of the hand clutch if needed, is that not the case? Or maybe it was an option or something like that...

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I have put 30,000 miles on mine. Draw backs are you are essentially clutch less shifting. Tranny is starting to shift not as nice as it used too. Its hard on oil. Shifts harder after about 1000 miles. Likes 10W50 best. Its great for lugging thourgh neihborhoods @25mph in 5th gear with my loud exhaust. I try to limit my down shifts on pavement. remember once rpms are above lockup, about 2500 you are cluthless shifting.

 

When the transmission starts to shift not so nice, it's time to change the oil.

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I have one bought it for dirt but use it on the street. Advantage would be leaving it in gear at a light incase some one is going to rear end you you can bail quickly. That's probably the only advantage. I run 15/40 rotella mine didn't like synthetic oil in high gear on the street.

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That does not sound at all pleasant. I think i'll stick with my manual clutch. And what about wheelies?? I guess you can't really do those anymore. Sounds highly ineffective for a supermoto.

30,000 miles?  LOL   Don't need a clutch to do wheelies.  Why are wheelies "effective" for a supermoto?

Edited by MindBlower
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MindBlower, on 20 Nov 2014 - 10:32 PM, said:

30,000 miles?  LOL   Don't need a clutch to do wheelies.  Why are wheelies "effective" for a supermoto?

So what your just restricted to power wheelies then? That's no fun. I like versatility.

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I use one and like it for dirt but for 95% street I wouldn't use it. It is hard on oil and mine slips mid 5th gear no matter how it is adjusted. But in the tight stuff it can't be beat.

 

If it slips in 5th gear then either it is not adjusted correctly or you have the wrong auto clutch.  For instance, if you have a big bore high torque bike and are running the standard Rekluse EXP you need to step up to the Core EXP or the Pro.

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If it slips in 5th gear then either it is not adjusted correctly or you have the wrong auto clutch. For instance, if you have a big bore high torque bike and are running the standard Rekluse EXP you need to step up to the Core EXP or the Pro.[/quote

The only current Rekluse for the DRZ is the EXP 3.0. I have these in multiple bikes (not exp models) and do not have this issue. I have just swapped to the heaviest springs as a test but doubt that will relieve it. It will be removed from this bike for street riding. I have monitored my oil and clutch parts since install. The pressure plate is starting to groove and my steels are turning blue. All within 1000 miles. The adjustments were also checked by members of my club and verified 1/8 play and 1900 rpm. To make the plates blue I would need huge slack in my cable. Maybe others will have better results but I will save my clutch.

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Do the heavier springs firm up the clutch in the EXP?  With my standard Revloc clutches, lighter springs lower the clutch engagement point rpm so that the clutch locks up sooner.  Have you thought about heavier wedges for a stronger lockup?

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