Ride in snow

My bike 02 426f has the factory jetting setup, and works just fine and start`s easy in temperature from 10c to 30c deg. But when it`s cold out side (-2 to -15c deg), it just won`t start at all.will my bike get lean when it`s getting colder outside? or is this bike just hard to get started in cold wheather? any smart advice to improve starting abillity?

Yamaha four strokes are known for difficult starting in cold weather. Larger starter jet and pilot jet will help along with liberal throttle openings before kicking it over.

Or you can take her inside and warm her up overnight before the ride. Your wife will love the new entry way display. :)

Yeah I've heard that they are hard to start, but I've never had a problem starting mine in the winters. It just fires up. :)

Last weekend it was about -30C. and after two hours of hualing the bike in the back of the truck to the ice race. She deffinetly did not want to start. It took about half an hour of kicking for her to start. The bike was so cold the e-button wouldnt even work at first. :)

I didnt feel to bad there were lots of people getting pulled around to fire up there thumper's.


How'd you do in the race? At -30C did you loose any body parts to the cold? :)

We didnt do to bad had a few little mistakes but came in sixth. For the losing body parts not sure yet I froze four of my fingers quite bad. I am hoping they will be good enough to ride for this weekend. For now on I am making sure my heated grips work before going to the race.

This is why I hibernate in the winter.

This is why I live in Arizona...70 degrees and sunny

this weekend,,Im goin ridin !! :)

Dude... :):D :D :usa::D :D

Body parts are not something to fool with. I can't even imagine what kind of gloves to wear that would still allow control of the bike.

Should be nice and warm this weekend for the Chestermere Lake race. Good luck. Hope the fingers get better. I can tell that you will be spanking me in the woods next year (as long as you get to keep your fingers :D) :D:usa:

I'm going riding tomorrow, fresh washes, lots of moist dirt for traction and a few mudholes....should be great weather too, mid 60s, partly cloudy with lots of sunshine...we've had a few days of that rainy stuff from California and everythings :):D


I'm going riding tomorrow, fresh washes, lots of moist dirt for traction and a few mudholes....should be great weather too, mid 60s, partly cloudy with lots of sunshine...we've had a few days of that rainy stuff from California and everythings :D:)


Yea we will be thinking of you when this summer when it is 75 and suny up north and 110 down by you :D

I live 194 miles from the Arctic Circle and have been riding my '99 WR 400 a couple of times a week, 'summer'and winter, since it was new. I have no problem starting it down to -35C now that I've got a little routine figured out. I run a #185 main jet at -20C and now have my #190 in for -30. I'm at sea level here so I have to run a bit richer even when it's not cold, which is not very often. I did order richer pilot jets years ago but they were back ordered and the bike works fine so I never did re-order them. I also use 0 W 40 synthetic oil and Polaris premix antifreeze good for -52. I used to mix my own automotive stuff but a one cold day I popped the rad cap and the green slush scared me.

The most important part of starting in the cold is do not touch the throttle while kicking over the engine or once it initially starts. You can only go near the grip after the bike is warmed up a bit and idling smoothly. Don't even hold the throttle grip while attempting to start because if it moves 1 RCH the engine won't fire. I hold the crossbar with my right hand. When it does fire it'll stall if you try to feather the gas before it's got some heat in it.

Here's what works for me.

#1 - Increase your idle speed by 1 turn of the adjuster knob.

#2 - Pull out the choke knob.

#3 - Set the bike up on TDC like you would for a normal start.

#4 - Prime the engine with slow full twists of the throttle. The number of squirts depends on the temperature. At -25C I give it 8 shots. If you overdo it and think you're flooded, pull in the decomp lever and kick over a dozen times while holding the throttle WFO. That should clear it and then you can start over.

#5 - With your right hand no where near the throttle grip, kick hard. Usually the first kick won't do anything. Still not touching the throttle, set up on TDC and kick again. Mine usually fires on the second or third kick, only for a second though, but this puts a few BTU's into the engine.

#6 - Repeat the entire procedure of priming the engine, kick without touching the gas, run for a second, reprime, kick...... The engine will run a little longer on the 2nd or 3rd kick after priming and will eventually stay running. As the idle speed increases you can turn the knob back to it's original position. I find that the engine will usually stall if I touch the gas at all until it starts to rev high with the choke on. Flip off the choke and let it warm a bit more and you should be good to go.

When it's colder than -35, pop out your rad protectors and carefully heat them up with a heatgun. When it's that cold you can clearly see the frost on the rads and can tell when they're warming up. If you don't have heat it just takes more squirts and kicks. Once it's running all you have to remember is the seat and suspension aren't as soft as you remembered. If you plan on getting serious about snowriding, get yourself a frontwheel ski. It's the best snow ride investment I've made. I spent my first 2 years making daily trips over the bars and haven't racked up a single frequent flyer mile since I installed mine. It comes with all hardware for each specific model. You can find it at http://www.pcracingusa.com/moto_ski.htm

Whereabouts are you guys getting studded tyres for your bikes?

I'd like to get a pair and go for a sub-arctic winter rip but I can't find anyone up here who sells them..


Just build'em yourself. Most bike shops can get in the case hardened ice racing studs. They look like sheet metal screws but work a lot better. For some quick fun buy short screws that won't push through to your tubes and screw them into the knobs. 1 per front knob is fine but you'll need a couple per rear knob for good coverage. If you want some extreme clear ice traction buy long screws, 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Measure the inside diameter of your tires by sticking masking tape inside and making a loop. Take the loops to a bike shop and find old street tires whose outside diameter is the same as your inside. Take a jigsaw and cut the sidewalls off of the street tires leaving only the tread part intact. Then you force the street tire inside your knobby. It's gotta be a tight fit to work properly and you usually have to beat the last bump in with a sledgehammer. Then you measure the inside of that and get another tire to fit inside. You build up the rubber thick enough so the screws don't poke all the way through. The most I've had is 3 street liners in the rear. Usually only 1 in the front. The idea is that the screws are locked in so much rubber that they don't flex backward under hard cornering or acceleration. If you just screw short screws into the knobs they'll flex and you won't get near the traction. The tire is fun to mount with all that rubber too. We used to hang the tire over a rippin' wood stove fire until it was near dripping and then grab some oven mitts and mount it on the wheel. The beads and everything are a lot more flexible and the job is much easier. Or if you really want to get into it and spend some money you can pop in some sled studs which is what I run. They're not nearly as good on clean ice but are better for all around riding and are carbide tipped so they don't get dull like the ice race studs. Here's the rear rear spikes

and here's the front front spike

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