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New US spec TT edge tail light bracket installed (pics)

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Got this in a few days ago, and promised on another thread on this topic I would report back with thoughts on this new TT bracket when installing, along with some images.  Here goes...


First impression: Light, stealth, tough, well made, good value.


Fit: Perfect. comes with the stainless screws as shown in the zip lock bag along with the two spacers needed to fill the gap between bottom of bracket and top of mount point. Screw holes in spot on location, no drill or dremel needed to come out of the tool box!  Put a little blue loctite on the screws to keep them from rattling loose over time, as I didn't want to over-tighten with the nylon type spacers being sandwiched in there. Gave them a good tighten with large screwdriver and it felt very solid. Tail light had two flat washers and two lock washers with threaded posts coming from back. Again, didn't want to over tighten or rattle loose, so added a dab of loctite blue there too. License plate holes are perfect for my Oregon plate, and the integrated bracket looks clean and tough. I know that is the reason the Chinese bracket has been a pain here in the US, and this reason alone makes it worth it. I should point out I didn't buy the light and bracket together. I bought the light previously, it's the DRC edge LED, and been sitting in the packaging until I felt like fabricating a bracket myself (then I got the "new item" email from TT announcing this bracket).


Wiring: Edge tail light comes with a yellow, red, black wire. I simply cut off the plug from the old tail light, stripped half an inch from them and soldered them to the edge wires using the twist/solder/fold/shrink-wrap method (and then used larger shrink wrap to bind all three smaller shrinks together). Somehow I managed to pop my fuse while testing things, but thankfully the spare was there and ready for service! 


The blinker mounts worked like a charm, and the placement gives a nice compact light cluster in back. Small standard bulb turn indicators is what I used, and all 4 match. Again, just a bit of blue loctite on the blinker posts to keep them from loosening. In retrospect, should have threaded a lock washer on the wires before the nut and wires soldered...but they didn't come with the blinkers and I didn't think about it until I was done. Easy enough to tighten periodically if needed.


Below are some pics of product, install, and finished. The last pic has nothing to do with this job, just my new Zeta billet heel guard that I just put on and thought was pretty trick (compared to the oem one anyway). 


Hope this helps anybody thinking about upgrading to the new USA spec bracket. I highly recommend!


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Very nice write up and review. To all that use a DRC Edge tail light I suggest you apply silicone sealant to the wire loom going into the back of the tail light. Also a thin bead around the base of the lens. Keeps moisture out and helps circut board to not corrode or get wet causing failure. This 'fix' was suggested to me when I installed mine and has saved my expensive tail light a couple times because of rain and water crossings.

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Yeah, at first I didn't like the gap between subframe and bracket....but then I thought it was a good thing as it doesn't really take any load there, and it's one more place that "won't" rattle, as if it was barely touching.  


Good idea on the silicone Jim!  I will be doing that before it even leaves the garage. Thanks for chiming in on that, as I want this tail light to last as long as possible! 

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  • 2 months later...

I thought I would add onto this thread since my installation was a little different.  First I put some RTV around the whole lens, under the three small phillips head screws, and around the conductors as the exit the housing to seal up the light.  I bought the 12 O'clock Labs OEM rear connector kit while I was at it.  I found it was easiest to crimp the connectors with a pair of right angle needle nose pliers instead of the standard needle nose.

Photo Jan 28, 2 40 41 PM.jpg

The wiring schematic on the 12 O'Clock labs wesite is wrong (http://www.12oclocklabs.com/manuals/DRCE2%20v1.0%20Manual%20[universal].pdf) so don't use it.  Following that wiring schematic, the brake light was always on and when I hit the brakes it illuminated the license plate light.  The crimp connectors were easy to remove from the "click connector".  I used a right angle pick to push the tab in and a 3/32 flat blade screwdriver to push the connector out.

Photo Jan 28, 2 41 19 PM.jpg

I used a combination of the 12 O'Clock labs website and the packaging to get the right combination of conductors.

Photo Jan 28, 2 44 24 PM.jpg

Photo Jan 28, 2 44 02 PM.jpg

Starting at the top of my picture, OEM to Edge... Black w/ white stripe to black, brown to yellow, and white w/ black stripe to red.  I have a 2003 S.

Then everything looked and worked well.

Photo Jan 27, 8 52 47 PM.jpg

Doug, you forgot to mention the best part of ordering the TT bracket...

Photo Jan 28, 2 44 46 PM.jpg

Edited by dec699
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I'm not sure yet.  My state is weird, at least weird to me, in that turn signals are not required by law (just a tail light), but are required to pass a safety inspection.  Integrated turn signals, like the 12 O'Clock Labs board for the Edge 2, are allowed, but will fail a safety inspection for inadequate turn signals.  Since I have my safety inspection in march, and I only ride about 5% on the road, i'm going to leave them off for now.  I'll put them on real quick for my safety inspection and then decide how I'm gonna go from there.  The rear stock ones have come off many times from dropping the bike.  One front signal is held on with zip ties and the housing is covered in JB-Weld.  My personal opinion is that the stock signals are bulky, hideous, flimsy, and protrude out far enough to get damaged in the slightest crash.  I've thought about the Tuff Lites, but $60 is pretty steep for a pair.  Long story short, most likely I'll upgrade to the integrated turn signals.   

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