Jump to content

2009 crf150r problems


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just traded my ltz 400 for a crf150rb yesterday. When I was getting the bike, the kid was having trouble starting it and said it hasent been run in 3 months, which was believable because he had a 250f in his garage and he said he had moved up. Once he finally got it started , he let me take it for a test ride and it ran great. So today after getting home from school, I took it out for a ride. It was again, really hard to start. Choke on, finally got it to pop off. When I start it, I noticed that when the choke is on it idles normally, until I give it a little throttle and it revved up to higher rpms, lime it should sound with the choke on. Turned choke off. Bike idled normally. I give it a little gas and it stays at a low;mid rev. It stays like this. I was riding it around and it went back down to normal idle here and there, but as soon as I'd give it a little gas it goes back up to the mid-high rev. , sounding like the choke is on. After a little more riding I noticed anti freeze leaking out of the weep hole. Figured this was an overflow of some sort. Not too sure though. It leaked a good amount and stopped, then after I got home and shut the bike off it leaked a little more.

Please help

Thanks,

-GrXoG

P.s- how much do you think this will cost to fix?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Leaking out the weep hole means the impeller shaft seal needs replacing

You should pull the pilot jet and replace it with a new one, and clear the passage above it with fishing line and spray cleaner.

If this bike has not had a valve adjustment, it needs one, or it will always start poorly

If the intake valves are sinking into the head (shim required is too small) then it's time for a valve job

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get 2 each #40 and #42 pilots... I run a 40 in the summer and sometimes 42 in the winter. Have an extra on-hand because they can get plugged up/corroded quickly by ethanol fuels or failing to drain the carb between rides. Same for main jets to a slightly lesser degree, but good practice to keep an extra on hand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I just change the pilot jet without having to change the main? I adjusted the fuel screw and its not at a constant high rev , it idles but when I rev it, it stays for like half a second then goes back down. Plus when I try to quickly turn the throttle it stalls now so I'm guessing it's the jets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I just change the pilot jet without having to change the main? I adjusted the fuel screw and its not at a constant high rev , it idles but when I rev it, it stays for like half a second then goes back down. Plus when I try to quickly turn the throttle it stalls now so I'm guessing it's the jets.

Yes, you can change the pilot without having to change the main; OE #138 main is fine.

Sounds like you need to go through the carb and ensure your accelerator pump is working correctly (O-ring mod) and you have no air leaks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How would I find an air leak?

How would I find an air leak?

get the bike of to operating temp. With the bike running at idle, spray carb cleaner on the intake boot, carb top cover, adjustment screws etc. Only spray one area at a time, with a small amount (short blast). If the idle jumps up or stumbles, you have a probable air leak at the area you sprayed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to add a bit info.  In my case, I went 48 pilot, AP mod, 40 leak (very important), R&D Powerbowl, flexible fuel screw (makes life easier), and a splitter.  Result is instant response, no bog, more bottom from the splitter.  But, I'm running a DMC pipe, which you can't get.  However, just do a valve adjustment (can't hurt), and try different set-ups.  Temps, humidy, elevation all play a factor.  There used to be tons and tons of good threads on this, but I know some got dumped a while back. 

Edited by socalxr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to add a bit info.  In my case, I went 48 pilot, AP mod, 40 leak (very important), R&D Powerbowl, flexible fuel screw (makes life easier), and a splitter.  Result is instant response, no bog, more bottom from the splitter.  But, I'm running a DMC pipe, which you can't get.  However, just do a valve adjustment (can't hurt), and try different set-ups.  Temps, humidy, elevation all play a factor.  There used to be tons and tons of good threads on this, but I know some got dumped a while back. 

 

My experience is very similar. QS/3 and FMF pipe here. Flow splitter was the biggie for me, and I would go nuts without the flex screw. There are still a lot of good jetting threads, and some are only a page or two down. Here's one:

 

https://thumpertalk.com/topic/1061864-2007-crf150r-carbidle-issues/

Edited by Old Plonker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've seen a lot about the o ring/ap mod - what exactly does it do?

Does the dub r 400 do as well as your run of the mill 250 2-smoke with a paddle? I've ridden in some sand at Ocotillo Wells (east of San Diego 60 miles however; no really tall dunes and such.

I've seen alot about the o ring/ap mod. What exactly does it do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bike also bogs pretty easily... Would this be an adjustment or an air leak? Im planning on rejetting soon.

 

Although it's more money (or you can make your own if you are careful) a flow splitter like the FMF Snap really makes the bottom-end more responsive (no bog, no hesitation, just clean pull off idle to 5,500 rpm where there's not a lot of response stock) and it makes pilot jetting much less critical. The o-ring mod is quick and easy and there's a reason everybody does it: it really helps the a/p do its job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...