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DRZ 400S TIMING, VALVES AND NOISE


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Hello I wonder if you guys can help. My 2003 DRZ400S with 12000 miles on it has just started to make a new engine noise a sort of clanking noise at low rpm. So I thought I would start with a valve clearance check, these are all tight and will need re shiming, could this cause the noise? what I then looked at was  the cam timing, with the engine at TDC ( valve lobes at 10 to 2 and TDC mark on the flywheel in the middle of the window) this is the position of the cams as you can see the arrow next to the number3 on the inlet cam sprocket is not pointing straight up. Should it, has the chain jumped a tooth? Apart from the new noise the bike still runs and starts well, although uses a bit of oil. I have not yet swapped to a MCCT yet but will and also will get the Loctite job done on the stator. But one bit at a time.

 

Cheers

 

Stu

 

 

VAVLES007_zpsc97108b3.jpg

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Well, I'm certainly not an expert, but it does look like a skipped tooth.  Based on my readings and not personal experience, you might check the cam chain and tensioner.  That could be your problem.

 

That's what it looks like to me, MCCT on order along with a valve shim kit. The see if the noise is still there after that.

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Stretched cam chain...replace it and get the manual tensioner.

 

Good spot, on the cam timing info on this forum the pic shows 15 pins in the cam chain between the arrows 3 and 2 that's counting the pins directly above the arrows. Mine has the same amount but the inlet sprocket arrow (number 3) is not pointing straight up. Looks like the chain has stretched, can anyone confirm?

 

Cheers

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Hello I wonder if you guys can help.

 

1) My 2003 DRZ400S with 12000 miles on it has just started to make a new engine noise a

2) sort of clanking noise at low rpm.

3) So I thought I would start with a valve clearance check, these are all tight and will need re shiming, could this cause the noise? 

4) what I then looked at was  the cam timing, with the engine at TDC ( valve lobes at 10 to 2 and TDC mark on the flywheel in the middle of the window) this is the position of the cams as you can see the arrow next to the number3 on the inlet cam sprocket is not pointing straight up.

5) Should it, has the chain jumped a tooth?

6) Apart from the new noise the bike still runs and starts well, although uses a bit of oil.

7)  I have not yet swapped to a MCCT yet but will and also will get the Loctite job done on the stator. But one bit at a time.

 

Cheers

 

Stu

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1) yep, that's about the right time to have a worn out chain, if the stock tensioner is left on it. 5,000-20,000 miles is when it starts showing up.

2) worn chain symptom, with worn autotensioner

3) no. tight valves = quiet valves. until one gets burned, or it refuses to start up when hot. or drops a valve. 

4) worn chain symptom

5) did not jump a tooth, no

6) symptom #2 that it's time for a refresh. order rings when you order the chain and MCCT. if the piston and bore look good, slap it together and enjoy.

7) all bits at one time ! mcct + new chain + top end refresh + loctite fixes = bike is reliable for another 40,000 miles or so. 

 

🙂

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1) yep, that's about the right time to have a worn out chain, if the stock tensioner is left on it. 5,000-20,000 miles is when it starts showing up.

2) worn chain symptom, with worn autotensioner

3) no. tight valves = quiet valves. until one gets burned, or it refuses to start up when hot. or drops a valve. 

4) worn chain symptom

5) did not jump a tooth, no

6) symptom #2 that it's time for a refresh. order rings when you order the chain and MCCT. if the piston and bore look good, slap it together and enjoy.

7) all bits at one time ! mcct + new chain + top end refresh + loctite fixes = bike is reliable for another 40,000 miles or so. 

 

🙂

 

Thank you for your help. Nice clear concise info. I now have the confidence to tackle the job, was thinking of sending it to the local bike shop but would  prefer to learn. Thanks again.

Stu.

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Stripped the head and barrel off today, not taken R/H engine side cover off yet for cam chain swap. After taking the barrel off the front cam chain guide was free, you can lift it out. Should it be fixed at the lower end?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Stu

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update. Fitted new cam chain, MCCT, and top end refresh, valve shims and done Loctite jobs. Adjusted the MCCT to finger tight before the first start up. Ran the engine, still the same noise, backed off the MCCT noise louder, wound it in a little noise gone. Happy days 🙄 . Thanks guys for all your help and enjoy your holidays.

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