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Quick connect jump-start system idea (thoughts?)


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Hey guys,

 

We have 2 DRZ's that are usually going out on dual sporting / trails together. Sometimes these bikes can fight you a bit on starting, especially when cold, flooded, etc. Being a tiny battery, it doesn't take that much cranking for it to reach that "oh crap, my bike won't start" point.  Both bikes have free power mod, new true gel batteries, and permanent battery tender quick connects for keeping them topped  up when in the garage. No back up kick starters (at this point).

 

We were going to go for a quick ride yesterday (cold but sunny) and one got a ran down battery before it would start and run. Waiting for the trickle charger to get the job done would take hours. Removing the plastics for "traditional" jump would be a major hassle, as one bike has stock rear rack that needs to be removed to get the seat/battery cover plastic. As fans of quick connectors for trickle charge, we got to  thinking that it would be really nice for a quick jump start system too. But those battery tender wires/plugs can't handle the juice for a jump. Did some digging, and found this little setup on TT store, see below link and image for my plan. Read about it on the manufacturers site too, and seems pretty cool for the money, at under $20. Says it can handle 2000 amps (really?). 

 

https://thumpertalk.com/shop/Brookshire-Innovations-Jump-Start-Kit-EK1-115-p4729574.html

 

THE PLAN (see also image attached): 

1) Cut off the spring clamps on section "C"

2) Direct wire section "A" and section "C" direct to battery terminals on both bikes, zip tie connectors to hang down inside battery cover.

3) Store section "B" (jumper cable) in one of our fender bags.

4) If a bike gets a dead battery, grab the section "B" cable, plug into each bikes quick connector, make sure bike with good battery is running, and start the other bike. Unplug and store section "B" cable. Go have fun!

 

Anybody do anything like this? Good idea? Bad idea? Better ideas?

 

Thanks in advance! 

bike quick jump start system idea.jpg

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I did something very similar, but I use a dangerous battery chemistry. I have banana jacks on the battery side panel to power ham radio gear . Since electric rc aircraft were a past hobby of mine I had big lithium polymer packs, and a spare cell checker. The cell checker goes in the balance port on the battery to monitor each cell voltage ( 3 cells equaling 12.6 volts). The batteries I had were capable of 120 sustained amps until the cell voltages drooped to 3.9 under load (11.7 overall). And I carried a 9 ah batt . NiMh batteries are safer and cheaper and i recommend using those. If you over draw a lipoly u get a lithium fire.....which is a lot like a magnesium fire. I have even jump started my small block chevy with the packs. The lithium pack is the size of two beer cans, my nimh is a bit heavier, less capable and the same size. You can get away with charging the nimh with your bike if you do your home work, but you cannot easily charge lithiums with your drz ( without carrying a charger that takes possibly hours to replenish the batteries).

Hope this helps in some way, just be safe.

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^ I agree, I think even 20 amps is going to tax those wires.

 

Free power mod and a healthy battery should be all you need unless you stall the bike every ten feet. Ten minutes of ride time should fully recover it from a cold start.

 

With today's pump fuels, fresh gas in the bike (and starting on 'Pri' if the bike has been sitting) make a big difference.

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I browsed around and found the wire size is 12 gage.  All of the adds and installation instructions use the term 2000 amp jump start kit.  It is more like the 2000 is a part number or kit number  rather than actual current capacity of the wire.  It is not only misleading it appears to be intentionally mis-leading.  I have not so far found anything that says what the actual current carrying capacity is or a jump start procedure.  NO this is not going to work to jump start bike to bike in the conventional sense.  Good for jump charging.

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All you really need is a remote positive battery connector...located close to battery but not behind a cover.....then all you need to carry is a light set of jumper cables....I think that #6 would be heavy enough, but they have to have good ends.

Then positive to remote connector and other to frame.

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I'd sort out the hard starting.......

Thanks to Siscoken and Blkrawb for the idea there. Much simpler and can pick my own wire gauge, etc. I'm sure there is a readily available product to make the end of the "remote +" wire capped off/waterproof when not in use. I didn't think about going to frame, but why not? Ground is ground after all. 

 

As far as Muzz comment...we are on that too! In my experience, with good gas and carb in good shape (proper jetting, etc) hard starts are not that common and would reflect a bigger issue like stator, battery, fuel supply, etc.   The issue with the bike that i mentioned hard started the other day, is that the PO installed the edelbrock quick silver carb. It does run quite nice I must say (pulls hard through entire throttle range) but has NO enricher or choke. It's a pumper carb, so you have to rely on a few throttle blips to pump in some gas for starting. But haven't figured out the magic formula yet between not enough (waste of battery juice) and too much (flooded). I have two other Mikuni oem carbs here, so just ordered a rebuild kit and JD jet kit (bike already has 3x3) as my father in law (his bike) is old school and wants a choke. After seeing how well my bike starts, runs, pulls, with new JD kit, 3x3, and uncorked tailcap, he wants to get it back to modded stock and sell the edelbrock to someone that wants a pumper style carb with the quick elevation change screw. 

 

On a side note:  Another good idea would be to put a headlight toggle switch in-line to the headlight...or maybe an older or aftermarket handle bar headlight switch that has on/off/bright positions (that would be nice). That headlight sucks serious juice, that would be nice to divert to the starter when there is a challenge on starting. Anybody do this? 

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Search out some silver plated stranded wire with silicone insulation for brushless rc stuff. It handles heat and current like a boss. I was putting 2kw at 16 volts thru some 8 guage stuff. As read after the wires and before the speed controller.

I know everybody isn't swimming in tools and meters here, but good grief to they make life easy. Data helps....

That said I used 50 amp rated gold plated bannana connectors and silver solder for.the higher temp ratings. I have melted solder joints in radios when causing trouble.

Edited by BLKRAWB
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Search out some silver plated stranded wire with silicone insulation for brushless rc stuff. It handles heat and current like a boss. I was putting 2kw at 16 volts thru some 8 guage stuff. As read after the wires and before the speed controller.

I know everybody isn't swimming in tools and meters here, but good grief to they make life easy. Data helps....

That said I used 50 amp rated gold plated bannana connectors and silver solder for.the higher temp ratings. I have melted solder joints in radios when causing trouble.

A little bit of voodoo there, but some good stuff to research on wire, etc. My RC stuff (traxxas stampede stadium trucks, etc) is older and still using brush motors and nimh batteries. But my daughter and I still have a ton of fun with them...fewer winds, digital speed controls, and 4500 mh batteries still kick up some dirt pretty good.  Need to check into the higher tech stuff you're talking about for jump wire...sounds cool.  Thanks!

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Thanks to Siscoken and Blkrawb for the idea there. Much simpler and can pick my own wire gauge, etc. I'm sure there is a readily available product to make the end of the "remote +" wire capped off/waterproof when not in use. I didn't think about going to frame, but why not? Ground is ground after all. 

 

As far as Muzz comment...we are on that too! In my experience, with good gas and carb in good shape (proper jetting, etc) hard starts are not that common and would reflect a bigger issue like stator, battery, fuel supply, etc.   The issue with the bike that i mentioned hard started the other day, is that the PO installed the edelbrock quick silver carb. It does run quite nice I must say (pulls hard through entire throttle range) but has NO enricher or choke. It's a pumper carb, so you have to rely on a few throttle blips to pump in some gas for starting. But haven't figured out the magic formula yet between not enough (waste of battery juice) and too much (flooded). I have two other Mikuni oem carbs here, so just ordered a rebuild kit and JD jet kit (bike already has 3x3) as my father in law (his bike) is old school and wants a choke. After seeing how well my bike starts, runs, pulls, with new JD kit, 3x3, and uncorked tailcap, he wants to get it back to modded stock and sell the edelbrock to someone that wants a pumper style carb with the quick elevation change screw. 

 

On a side note:  Another good idea would be to put a headlight toggle switch in-line to the headlight...or maybe an older or aftermarket handle bar headlight switch that has on/off/bright positions (that would be nice). That headlight sucks serious juice, that would be nice to divert to the starter when there is a challenge on starting. Anybody do this? 

 

 

ditch the toggle switch and use an interrupt relay instead to kill power to everything besides the starter/ignition system. a switch on the shroud will tempt the rider into leaving the headlight off in the woods to "save the battery" but in practice overheats the stator by dumping another 55-60 watts to it to dissapate. this is debatable. i hope someone does. ;-) 

 

 

 

for bump starting, you can put two drz's back to back and bump start off the rear tires. it's faster than digging out jumper cables, and you won't blow up a battery in the process either. if you're even lazier (YAY!) just get your buddy to put a boot on your exhaust pipe and push you. in third gear it takes about 10 mph to get it started in dirt. the ride the piss out of it for 20-30 minutes and the battery will recover fully. 

 

just my experience. 

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ditch the toggle switch and use an interrupt relay instead to kill power to everything besides the starter/ignition system. a switch on the shroud will tempt the rider into leaving the headlight off in the woods to "save the battery" but in practice overheats the stator by dumping another 55-60 watts to it to dissapate. this is debatable. i hope someone does. ;-) 

 

 

 

for bump starting, you can put two drz's back to back and bump start off the rear tires. it's faster than digging out jumper cables, and you won't blow up a battery in the process either. if you're even lazier (YAY!) just get your buddy to put a boot on your exhaust pipe and push you. in third gear it takes about 10 mph to get it started in dirt. the ride the piss out of it for 20-30 minutes and the battery will recover fully. 

 

just my experience. 

I'll have to look into the relay idea...not much of an electrical guy, but sounds like a decent idea. 

 

I don't think the bump start would work for us, just two old guys out there, with trials tires on rear (not knobs).  Not exactly dealing with light 125cc dirt bikes.

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I have a battery tender and just us the set that came with it. All you do is plug into you battery tender and you have jumpers.

I also however have a kickstarter so I only carry the jumpers for other riders.

Have you actually used those cables that came with your battery tender for "jump start" not just charging it back up?  My understanding is the wire gauge is fine for that 5 volt trickle charge at less than 1 am (my battery tender says 12 volt output at 750 mA...but my multimeter does not agree), but a bit undersized for a full battery to battery "jump".  In fact, we left the blade fuse holder on the hot wires, that come with the battery tender setup. Those are like 3amp for the quick connect, and 7.5amp on the "battery clip" cords that also come with the set. I don't think either 3 amps or 7.5 amps would handle a battery/battery jump through those wires/plugs without popping a fuse. Again, the reason for this thread was to find a quick and easy way to jump one bike from the other (garage or on the trail) without removing all the racks and plastics...or causing some kind of overload or meltdown. Not great at electrical, so I do appreciate all the ideas and advice!

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I just mounted my battery upside down so the terminals protrude from the bottom, that way I don't have to remove any panels to jump start the battery.

I have to say, that is a pretty good idea. Our sealed gel batteries are supposed be able to be place in "any position". I must admit, that the idea of mounting it upside down just doesn't sit right...just so unconventional. Been looking at bike and car batteries with terminals facing the sky for 40 yeas...so my mind is bucking the idea.   But sure does solve the problem of being able to quickly reach those terminals! What kind of battery are you using? Any issues with doing it that way. 

 

Pretty sure I would have to make + wires longer (don't like messing with stock  wires and terminals), as this would put + on right side down low. No way it would reach there in stock configuration.

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