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FloridasFinest DRZ400S to supermoto/build thread?


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Hey everyone!

 

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Thought I would make an account and post my build and maybe if I have any questions someone here can help me out! I have a 2007 DRZ400S, it has 3x3 mod, slip on yoshimura exhaust when I got her. At first, the only thing I did to her was put some knobbies on her and I drove her around and beat the shit out of her with a smile on my face! About a week ago I ran into some problems and realized I was burning way to much oil way to quickly. I did a compression test and I was only pushing 30! Low compression it was, so I started breaking her down and expected the worse and pulled the top end of the bike. After taking it apart I realized my problem was my rings around my piston were compressed in and I believe thats how oil is getting past my piston and I am losing compression? Well I ordered a 434cc big bore kit and here is where I am now!

 

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So started off today pretty typical, search craigslist before I go and start working on my bike. Well I come across a deal that cant be true, but only it was! I found a guy local that wants to get rid of his mint condition warp 9 17" wheels! Well he wanted to trade for dual sport tires so I traded him my stock DRZ400S rims with newish knobbies on them plus $100 cash for mint Warp 9s and basically brand new Pirelli Diablo tires! The best part the guy had them on a DRZ400S too so it also came with the rotors and the front brake spacer! They bolted right up and $100 later I can now say I am almost a member of the Supermoto Club!

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The guy also gave me a bigger sprocket too! Its a 48 tooth which which I dont think imma use because I think my top end speed will be like 50 mph lol

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I also picked up a set of hand guards too! Got to figure out a way to install them because the hardware they came with wont bolt up correctly on my handle bars.

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I think next I need to pick up a new chain to make this new set up work. The new sprocket on the Warp 9s is a 42 tooth? I forget and too lazy to go look. First question is can I just take out a link in my chain? If not its all good, its time for a new chain anyways. I also plan on getting a JD Jet kit. 

 

If ya have any questions let me know, Ill do my best to answer them!

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I have a complete jd kit and kientech extended fuel screw here i used couple of ride before i switch to keihin fcr that you could have for 85shipped (paid 100 from jd ) comes with intructions and all the jets and needles

Let me know if i could help.

Anyways for the warp 9 wheels you got are you sure all lined up ? Ive heared bunch of problems with the warp9 setup (thats probably why the last owner got rid of it for clise to nothing)

Welcome to sm club hahaa now you need a new front fender

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I have a complete jd kit and kientech extended fuel screw here i used couple of ride before i switch to keihin fcr that you could have for 85shipped (paid 100 from jd ) comes with intructions and all the jets and needles

Let me know if i could help.

Anyways for the warp 9 wheels you got are you sure all lined up ? Ive heared bunch of problems with the warp9 setup (thats probably why the last owner got rid of it for clise to nothing)

Welcome to sm club hahaa now you need a new front fender

Ill let ya know about the Jet kit! and I think they are lined up right. Honestly this is my first SM build so Im kind of learning as I go but I guess I won't know for sure if they are all solid until I test ride it and get my rear tire tighten up. Do you know if I can just remove a link in the chain?

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Well it will still work with s chain guide but your chain will be all over the place and eat your rear tires (thats why your need the sm chain guide ,youll see why when you see the actual pics of the chain guide difference )

Edited by Yellow02rm250
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Wow that's a great deal on the Warp 9's, you will want to make sure they are straight and true but other than that they work just fine. I never used the SM chain slider on my SM conversion (used Warp 9 rims and a 150 Conti-Force SM rear tire). There was some very minor chain rub on the tire but not enough to warrant getting the SM chain slider, YMMV.

With a 42 rear sprocket you will want a 110 link chain (S and E models have 112 links stock). Since you say the chain is worn it is best to just replace it because running a worn out chain will just cause accelerated wear on the sprockets. If the sprockets are worn out replace them too. Chain slack should be set to 1.6 - 2.0 inches, I always do this with the chain guide removed as it can interfere with the measurement.

The stock fork boots are pretty ugly, you don't really need them if you are riding on the street. But if you do want something get some seal savers. If you like the looks of SM fork guards you can retrofit some on the S forks, though it is purely aesthetic if they are put on the lowers. 150ron did this and it looks pretty darn good.

IMO a SM kick stand is not needed, as long as you pick your parking spots wisely. They just need to be flat or declining to the left.

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Wow that's a great deal on the Warp 9's, you will want to make sure they are straight and true but other than that they work just fine. I never used the SM chain slider on my SM conversion (used Warp 9 rims and a 150 Conti-Force SM rear tire). There was some very minor chain rub on the tire but not enough to warrant getting the SM chain slider, YMMV.

With a 42 rear sprocket you will want a 110 link chain (S and E models have 112 links stock). Since you say the chain is worn it is best to just replace it because running a worn out chain will just cause accelerated wear on the sprockets. If the sprockets are worn out replace them too. Chain slack should be set to 1.6 - 2.0 inches, I always do this with the chain guide removed as it can interfere with the measurement.

The stock fork boots are pretty ugly, you don't really need them if you are riding on the street. But if you do want something get some seal savers. If you like the looks of SM fork guards you can retrofit some on the S forks, though it is purely aesthetic if they are put on the lowers. 150ron did this and it looks pretty darn good.

IMO a SM kick stand is not needed, as long as you pick your parking spots wisely. They just need to be flat or declining to the left.

Thanks alot! that really cleared alot up for me! Ill double check the sprocket size but yea I will order a new chain and run it and see how they are. Now just need to finish my top end and ill be good to go! Ill keep ya guys posted on here, should be done by next weekend!

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Thanks! I still can't believe I got a set for so cheap! Very nice on the new SM Im jealous! Im in Orlando, you from Florida? Lets ride!

I'm currently stationed in New Mexico at the moment however I grew up in Titusville and was also stationed up in the panhandle. Hopefully I will be going back in about a year or so. I am gonna have to get a hitch mount hauler so I can take my bike with me on vacation to Florida when we go! Good luck with the build can't wait to see it all done. Also check flea bay for an SM kickstand.
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did you disable the auto decomp mechanism before the compression test ? i'm going to assume you did not, because the engine would not run with only 30psi. 

 

the piston looks good, as does the bore. that's normal carbon build up for a bike with 10-20,000 miles on it. 

 

when, and how are you checking the oil level ? you might have missed the proper way to check it- ? 

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did you disable the auto decomp mechanism before the compression test ? i'm going to assume you did not, because the engine would not run with only 30psi. 

 

the piston looks good, as does the bore. that's normal carbon build up for a bike with 10-20,000 miles on it. 

 

when, and how are you checking the oil level ? you might have missed the proper way to check it- ? 

It wasn't running when I did the compression test and yea the valves are still good and are sealed when they are closed up. The piston and cylinder are also still pretty good which is why I might return this big bore kit. I was told these high performance kits dont last much longer past 20 hours because they are light weight and get warped after a good amount of heating and cooling. Honestly I might just re hone my cyclinder and buy a high compression stock size compression and return the big bore kit and save some money.

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I was told these high performance kits dont last much longer past 20 hours because they are light weight and get warped after a good amount of heating and cooling.

 

The CW big bore kit is quality, I've never heard of any problems with the kit itself. But sometimes the increased power/displacement can cause an already worn out bottom end to die an early death.

 

Honestly I might just re hone my cyclinder and buy a high compression stock size compression and return the big bore kit and save some money.

 

Don't get a high compression piston unless you want to run race gas. You can take apart the 3 piece S model base gasket and use just one piece (Don't use the center piece that is just a spacer), this will bump compression from 11.3:1 to 12.2:1, but you will need to run premium (91-93) gas.

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The CW big bore kit is quality, I've never heard of any problems with the kit itself. But sometimes the increased power/displacement can cause an already worn out bottom end to die an early death.

 

 

Don't get a high compression piston unless you want to run race gas. You can take apart the 3 piece S model base gasket and use just one piece (Don't use the center piece that is just a spacer), this will bump compression from 11.3:1 to 12.2:1, but you will need to run premium (91-93) gas.

 

So do you recommend I use the big bore kit I brought? I guess if anything does happen I can just buy a new gasket kit and switch back to my old stock cylinder and piston? 

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So do you recommend I use the big bore kit I brought? I guess if anything does happen I can just buy a new gasket kit and switch back to my old stock cylinder and piston?

Yeah, I would install the BBK. If the engine is high mileage consider getter a service manual and checking out the bottom end. I can't remember exactly what should be checked, maybe someone else will chime in.

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I have a complete jd kit and kientech extended fuel screw here i used couple of ride before i switch to keihin fcr that you could have for 85shipped (paid 100 from jd ) comes with intructions and all the jets and needles

Let me know if i could help.

Anyways for the warp 9 wheels you got are you sure all lined up ? Ive heared bunch of problems with the warp9 setup (thats probably why the last owner got rid of it for clise to nothing)

Welcome to sm club hahaa now you need a new front fender

I bought a complete Warp 9 SM set from Moto X Industries and they bolted right up (came with the proper spacers). 

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