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New Husqvarna Owner - 1998 TE610 Revival

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Hi there people! I'm Guillermo, and I'm writing from Venezuela.

I'm the proud new owner of a really battered 1998 TE610 I had the pleasure of receiving for little money. The bike is really odd (to me at least) having the kicker on the left instead of the right side of the engine.

It seems to be that the bike is the competition only model some people mention on the Interwebs, as it lacks the oil filter housing and cap on the engine's right side

These are some pics of the machine in question:





I'm currently in the process of trying to make the bike run again, have given the bike a pretty good inspection and this is what I've seen/noticed

- no ignition switch

- no kill switch

- no side stand

- no stoplight

- carb starting circuit (choke) lever assembly not mounted to the bike (hanging by the side).

- no upper chain roller

- no lower chain roller

- lower shock bushing/bearing totally shot. Rear end has like 20mm of play in the suspension linkages.

My current objective with this bike is to get it to running condition and then, when that happens, I'll decide what would I be doing with the bike. Possible plans for the bike are keeping it stock and run it as an enduro bike, or maybe making a custom out of this bike. The customs I've been looking at are the street tracker ones with NX650, DR650 bases, that's what I will be shooting for if going custom.

I'm posting this here as a way to look for help from people that already had any experiences with the bike. I'm open to any kind of suggestions and opinions, help is always appreciated.

Let's begin with what I had already done to the bike :

As of receiving the bike, I arrived home, poured some gas on the tank and began kicking the bike to see if I got somewhere, I was like 20 kicks in, and the bike remained dormant.

The bike has good compression, activating the minuscule lever on the left side of the handlebar has the same effect as removing the spark plug and trying to kick. Release the lever and I encounter a normal amount of resistance due to compression. I'm waiting for a friend to lend me his compression gauge to test accordingly.

Poured the old oil from the engine. Although it was a lot less than what is to be expected inside the case, it did not have any bad smells or any kind of metal particles on it. After that, fresh new oil was poured in.

Got some new spark plug (DENSO CR8E), and spark plug cap (NGK). Installed the plug and this happens:



I managed to get the broken piece of spark plug by tapping a flat head screwdriver in, and screwing it back out easily.

Had another plug remaining, installed it and kicked the bike, nothing happened. Got the plug out and kicked the bike and no spark was seen jumping.

Next steps are testing the coils and the stator, if those are fine, then the problem is the CDI unit.

I'll keep updates coming, cheers!

Edited by dualero
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Quick little update:

Tested spark again, nothing happened. First got the multimeter and tested the resistance in the stock coil.

1) Primary winding: infinite resistance

2) secondary winding: 193k ohm

So in theory the stock coil might be faulty. Got the coil from my Chinese commuter bike, and rigged it to test it on the Husky. Again nothing happened.

Next step is to test the stator to see if there's any current coming from it and verify those values are in their correct ranges.

If the stator throws good numbers, then the problem might be located in the CDI. After I figure out the wiring diagram I'll rig a Chinese CDI in order to test.

Cheers buds!

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Did you give the carb a good inspectaroondoony? Original dellorto 40 without ac pump? I have an 01 that is clean and it is a bear to start even with modded jetting. Sort spark out sure but check that carb and enrichener circuit for bad/worn rubber.

Not yet. I want to focus my efforts in getting spark Edited by dualero
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Regarding the progress on the bike, two days ago had a one hour encounter with the bike. Removed the right side 3-bolt case cover . The generator stator is not oil-bathed as per the workshop manual.

Unfortunately I did not take any pics, I only found the magneto/flywheel and a big ass rounded nut. This nut thing really scares me as I'm afraid to be in the need to weld a nut to the nut on the bike in order to be able to be able to remove it.

Another thing than concerns me is that I have no way of locking the crankshaft to undo that nut. I think I'll have to manage a way to build some sort of tool/stop to do so.

I'll be away from tomorrow, Saturday 27th until January 5, holidays, friends getting married and a little road trip (Gran Sabana, oldest place on earth) will keep me away from the husky, but I'll be back soon enough!

I'll try to tackle some of the tasks before me before leaving. Cheers! Thanks for the support!

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  • 3 weeks later...


Yesterday I spent some quality time with the bike. As the no spark issue remained, I went south and began testing components.

First unplugged the stator, connected the multimeter and when kicking the bike the multimeter showed some voltage.





Connected everything back, stator, CDI but left the coil unplugged, and then the multimeter, showed signals coming from the coil main connector (the one that feeds the coil).

Plugged the coil and spark plug back in, touched the plug against the engine. Kicked the engine, and a big, fat, blue spark could be seen jumping! SUCCESS!

Went for the tank and gas, mounted everything, filled her up, spark plug in, kicked her. Nothing happens for 40 kicks plus. Tried the various methods explained in this thread, several times:

http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/gsuarezlecuona/media/Husqvarna%20TE610e%201998/VID_20141219_170832_zps8szeagqo.mp4.html '> http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/gsuarezlecuona/media/Husqvarna%20TE610e%201998/VID_20141219_170907_zpsz0omqoji.mp4.html '> http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/gsuarezlecuona/media/Husqvarna%20TE610e%201998/VID_20141219_170907_zpsz0omqoji.mp4.html

I'll keep you posted!

Edited by dualero
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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update.

Got the spark sorted. Bad earthing was all the problem. Got the right bolts for the CDI.

I had the carburetor disassembled yesterday and cleaned throughly today for reassembly. Reassembly has been already finished.

Tomorrow is test day.

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  • 2 weeks later...

2...? Hahahaha

All right, I went to test the bike on the 28th.

Got all the wiring off the way, mounted the radiators and hoses, filled her with water. Then the tank, seat and gas. Checked spark one last time, and went off.

I was towed to a big uphill near my apartment and then went down the hill. I got to make the engine turn (engine is so tight and has so much compression, that I had to try 2 or 3 time's to get it down right), being the gearbox in third gear.

While I had the engine turning I opened the throttle carefully, until I heard the engine sound begin to change. Nothing happened, from then on, opened it from full closed to WOT like 4 or 5 times, but nothing happened. No intention to come alive at all.

Before leaving, I also went and checked if the bowl of the carb was getting fuel, and it did.

So, there are 2 only more things to check that could be making the bike not to start:

1. Bad timing, for some reason the timing might be off. I'm waiting for a friend to lend me a gear puller to pull the generator rotor/flywheel to check that.

2. Wrong valve clearance, this might be an issue also, maybe too tight or too loose, but I didn't really hear loose valves as the engine turned. I'll check anyway

Edited by dualero
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  • 2 months later...

Hello folks! I'm back with a little update.

Life got in the way, but am seriously back. The bike still won't run, but although I was away for a lot of time I have made small but important progress.

As seeing that the bike has spark, but no intentions to run, or at least make some sounds through the exhaust, I went to check if the flywheel/rotor magnets where shifted out of position, making the ignition to spark out of sync.

When I removed the right side cover, I found myself a little bit of trouble, mashed nut on the flywheel. Socket wouldn't grip it so I went and welded a nut to remove it as I explain in this thread:


Another little project I managed to tackle was to fix me some bike stand/table. Got some scrap tubing and build this little fella, a bit tall, but REALLY comfortable nonetheless

Getting the bike onto the stand, on baby steps:

IMG-20150407-WA0017_zps7gkidlmk_edit_1429102492193_zpsjkhyqjam.jpeg" alt="IMG-20150407-WA0017_zps7gkidlmk_edit_142">

On the stand:

IMG_20150407_210715_zpsaoctlo0m.jpg" alt="IMG_20150407_210715_zpsaoctlo0m.jpg">

IMG_20150407_210639_zpsdls4tlzr.jpg" alt="IMG_20150407_210639_zpsdls4tlzr.jpg">

So now I'm waiting for a machinist friends to make me some extractor for the flywheel. This might take long as my friend won't charge me for the job, good thing is I have material readily available and ready to be machined.

I'll come back with more updates when I remove the rotor. In the meantime I'll check the valve clearances to make something productive while waiting for the tool to be made.


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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi there!

Update coming your way.

I've already received the puller my machinist friend made me. It only took 4 weeks, but it being for free, was worth the wait.

Here are some pics of it for you to drool over. It just looks like it was bought, quality wise.



Today when I arrive from work, will be the day I can finally tackle disassembling the rotor from the engine (at last). Pics will be meticulously taken, I'll also remove the stator so you (also) can take a look a it.

Uptite, is there any chance that you could help me re-setting the magnets to their correct position in relation to the crankcase and advance mechanism?

My worst fear is the fact that when I crack the flywheel free the magnets are glued to the flywheel, but in an incorrect position in relation to the crankshaft. If this is the case, what would be harder to achieve? Machining the flywheel to accept the Woodruff key in a new, final, and correct position, or try to unglue the magnets and relocate them?

As you mentioned before not to glue the magnets if I didn't have the knowledge. Although I've never had the opportunity to work on a bike like this (only Chinese commuter crappie bikes), I have plenty of knowledge in terms of engine function and problem diagnosis, so I feel capable.

Thanks in advance! And thanks to all the ones following this turtle-paced

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Hello! I'm back.

Removed the rotor successfully with the extractor first try. Finding this.



Then I went to check the flywheel. My worst fear has come true, the magnets are glued in place but they seem to be out of phase. So here we go.

So first thing I did after removing the rotor and stator, was to find TDC. Grabbed a 1/4 ratchet extension and threw it through the spark plug hole. As I didn't want to remove the valve caps on the head to see when the valves moved I turned the crankshaft until I had the extension all the way up. Then, I put a carb hose through the spark plug hole and blew air in, if I heard air coming through the carb, I was at the wrong timing. Found compression TDC (valves closed, no sound through the intake).

When I found TDC, the Woodruff key would be at 12 O'clock, rightly aligned with the mark that's on the crankcase (first pic on this post), just like this:


In my deep search in the web during this restoration, I found this thread:


In the selected post (#16), poster describes his problem about mis-placed magnets on his TE410. His (REPLACEMENT) flywheel ID numbers and my flywheel ID numbers and markings are the same so, in theory the rotor/stator combo I have, should have the same advance for the "deep hole magnet", irrelevant from being a 610 or a 410. (DHM from now on):


I'm sure I did not make a error when re-bonding the magnets on the original flywheel, mine and other's experience would suggest that there have been several versions of the Ducati flywheel / stator , can anyone confirm this and any identifying markings ?

My TE 410 (99) flywheel (with trigger magnet set at 30 deg BTDC) identification / markings:

Colour : grey

The following markings (working clockwise) are stamped into it:

An arrow indicating direction of rotation (clockwise)

arrow head (Ducati Horizontal TDC ?)

“Ducati e.”


“31 72 2100”


My original flywheel which I re-bonded was causing ignition at 29 deg BTDC (idle) , advancing to a maximum of 49 deg BTDC : way too aggressive. To fix this I am hoping to get another slot for the woodruff key machined 19 deg anticlockwise of the original locating slot."

So. Following what this poster said and if all of that is true, my flywheel should have a 30 degree BTDC advance. Went and marked the position of the DHM. Found this.



After drawing a 30° line BTDC with the help of a square, it appears to be that the DHM, is around the 45° mark. As the magnets are already glued I am unable to re-set them. What would be the best way to solve this? Could I make some holes on the aluminum stator carrier thing, 15 degrees back? Or should I machine a new Woodruff key slot on the crank 15 deg anticlockwise?

I dont know what else to do from here. What do you guys suggest?


Regarding the stator, it looks OK. All the wires seem to be OK and soldered good to each ones of the leads on the stator coils. What would be a good diagnosis for this stator? Wich values should I be reading? Aaaand... Some pics of the part in question.






Thanks guys! Keep you posted!

Edited by dualero
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  • 7 months later...

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