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You know spud786, always asking inquiring questions.

Well I tried to buy a Husky 501, but they wouldn't budge on full price plus premiums, So I test rode a new ktm 690, I didn't like it, vibrated too much, and kinda funny handling and not enough oats. So I bought a 2015 KTM 520 EXC, I scared chitless on the reliability, and I haven't road the bike yet, pick it up tomorrow morning.

I need the TPs cable, I just know it, the first item, or maybe a oil filter

This is my first KTM , God help me!

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So tomorrow is supposed to be rainy and cold, But I have a 30 mile ride to get back to the house from the dealer. Normally I run a bike 300 miles before the first dump for the street. It seems they do install the 10w60 motoerex from the factory, I asked about dumping it to mineral oil , but they said KTM recommends that oil to start, but they require a short dump fairly quickly. What is the recommend first dump on the EXC?

Just debating dumping it when I get home to complete the breakin with rotella t6 , or just running my usual 300 miles and then dumping? Meaning I may not come home right off the bat, also do you think its good to install spoke weights opposite of the rim locks to make it to the house?

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Yep balance wheels.

I would prolly change oil after a couple of hours.

Quit frekin the bike is reliable as a rock...

Okay Etech I'll try to stop freaking out, its just such an expense Im skeered!!! and charting in unknown waters. Ive never spent more than $5000 on a dirt bike

more than likely I balance the wheels when I get home, Im just thinking of having then add 2 ounces on each wheel, to make it home opposite of the rim locks.

Edited by Spud786
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So tomorrow is supposed to be rainy and cold, But I have a 30 mile ride to get back to the house from the dealer. Normally I run a bike 300 miles before the first dump for the street. It seems they do install the 10w60 motoerex from the factory, I asked about dumping it to mineral oil , but they said KTM recommends that oil to start, but they require a short dump fairly quickly. What is the recommend first dump on the EXC?

Just debating dumping it when I get home to complete the breakin with rotella t6 , or just running my usual 300 miles and then dumping? Meaning I may not come home right off the bat, also do you think its good to install spoke weights opposite of the rim locks to make it to the house?

Go for a leisurely ride and dump the OE oil after an hour or so. Refill with Dino; I like Rotella 15-40. Enjoy!

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Welp I picked up my bike, and the bike was pushed out the door into the rain, I guess its going to get punished right off the bat. The bike felt extremely awkward, way to much throttle pay and its raining with knobbies and unfamiliar, I rode it home about 30 miles trying to get good decel and accel loads on the motor. They added weight to the wheels to try and counteract the rimlocks, I don't know how much good it did, but it definitely isn't right, so that's my to do list tonight.

I had to pull the tank , throttle cable adjust way down by the throttle body, that sucked, but now the throttle is much better, The tranny seems very slick no problem there. I took it up to about 83 mph but the balancing need work. I have about 60 miles now, I guess I'll dump the oil and see what comes out.

I have more questions but I have to get back to the bike, lots of set up to do.

Edited by Spud786
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1227180836.jpgOkay the oil is done, nothing there really in the screens they were clean, after dumping the oil out of the drain pan and shining in bright like you could see very fine sparkles, buts everything looks okay, no chunks.

pic is below but not very good. I need to order a block off kit, but im not having any popping , but I rode in 45 degree wet weather. One time I removed the gas cap and felt like I heard some suction, anything I can easily do about that, what happens if I cut the cas cap line to the air, will that cause issue?

anyway, now I have to figure out how the get the front wheel off to balance. Ive done a couple of cold starts it starts great, but is there any kind of choke or fast idle pull out?

Edited by Spud786
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My fuel tank is holding pressure(not a vacume) atleast the last time I opened the cap, does that need to be addressed promptly? I would think a vacume would be more an issue, but I don't understand if it supposed to hold pressure.

Balanced the front wheel, they put 2 ounces tape weight opposite of the rim locks, the front tire needed more, but I only had center rim weights, which do work on this bike, I only had one spoke weight, so I added that, its close, definitely closer than it was. I'll probably ditch the rimlocks, I normally run streetable pressure.

Anyway, what am I looking for if the TPS needs attention, and whats the trick removing the tail pipe end screen now that its welded?

BTW that crank ventilation device is open to air theres a black looking plastic filter at the end of the hose, but its open both ways , If it sucks in , its sucking unfiltered air, or does it just blow out?

I don't seem to be using any oil, and no smoke on start up, so that is promising.

Edited by Spud786
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Here's my reply to a similar question I posted in January...

Removing the EVAP canister will eliminate vapor lock in the tank causing hesitation and erratic throttle response. Removing the SAS valve on the right side of the engine will lessen the backfire on deceleration. The bike will still run lean but much better. Changing the map or adding an injection tuner will make the motor come alive. After doing my research here, I removed both smog systems and added the JD tuner. My 500 did not run properly until I made these changes. I now have over 2000 miles and 80 hours with no hiccups!

Not sure if the pressure in the tank is due to a clogged valve or an obstruction in the line. Also adjusting the TPS to .61-.64 will improve the lean issue. I now have 110 hours and over 2800 miles on mine.

Edited by KTMPete
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Here's my reply to a similar question I posted in January...

Removing the EVAP canister will eliminate vapor lock in the tank causing hesitation and erratic throttle response. Removing the SAS valve on the right side of the engine will lessen the backfire on deceleration. The bike will still run lean but much better. Changing the map or adding an injection tuner will make the motor come alive. After doing my research here, I removed both smog systems and added the JD tuner. My 500 did not run properly until I made these changes. I now have over 2000 miles and 80 hours with no hiccups!

Not sure if the pressure in the tank is due to a clogged valve or an obstruction in the line. Also adjusting the TPS to .61-.64 will improve the lean issue. I now have 110 hours and over 2800 miles on mine.

Did you make any changes to your exhaust? Like the end screen

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Did you make any changes to your exhaust? Like the end screen

Yes, on my 13' it had a screw in type screen that fell out before the second oil change. Not sure what guys have done to remove the welded ones but I'm sure there's a thread here.

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Yes, on my 13' it had a screw in type screen that fell out before the second oil change. Not sure what guys have done to remove the welded ones but I'm sure there's a thread here.

The screen on the new bikes comes out, but takes a little more effort. Removing it does make a bit louder, particularly at idle, if you have sensitive neighbors.

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You know, the positive ventilation thing on the cylinder , the big hose that runs off of it into a black orifice that goes no where(open air), you could pop a 1 inch rubber plug over that thing and would serve the same purpose. Im just wanting to test the effect, before I actually start removing stuff, anyone tried this?

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The thing with the emissions equipment is, it works fine and does not adversely affect performance. So disabling it and leaving it on the bike is kind of pointless.

The problem with the smog parts is they are potential failure points in stock trim, but even more so when disabled. The AIS and solenoid on the throttle body, in particular, will be problematic with any kind of air leak. Other than that, it's additional weight and clutter during maintenance.

My personal opinion is either remove it completely using the correct parts, or just leave it alone.

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Im about to order the block off kit, I just wanted to try plugging the big hose, to see. I was just trying to confirm my intention would equal the same thing.

If the result was positive, then of course I couldn't order the kit fast enough. Im just asking cause maybe there's something Im missing.

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My Bill, Im thinking what are your talking about, then I looked at my original post and yep, a 520, well its close I guess having 510 cc, I also noted the KTM exc uses the same head gasket as the offroad model, the Husky 501s uses a thicker head gasket to lower compression. I was back and forth on the 2 bikes.

Edited by Spud786
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Its only about 38 degrees (don't know if that's a factor?), but I am occasionally getting some popping between gears , and if a do a power wheelie and come down with the rpms up, it does a lot of popping. Ill get the kits ordered today, TPS and block off.

You guys under 6 foot, what bar location are you using, bars seem a little tall, I can stand up completely holding the bars, I moved them back alittle but Im still in the default location for the clamps. Lookin for more Honda like feel?

I took it up to about 87, the front balance job is much better, still breaking it in, so Im avoiding full all out rpm but hits 300 miles and there will be an extended top end run for glory.

Edited by Spud786
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