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1994 RM125R


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So I picked up this RM125. With a free vin decoder, its a 94 125r. Whats the distinction of the 'r' model? It fires up on 1-2 kicks no matter the temperature. Even though its my first 2 stroke, it sounds extremely healthy. It has a lot of rust in the rear wheel. I have to order a set of bearings, but the question I have is why does it use 3 bearings inside the hub according to the schematic? At any rate, its a basket case, but I'm extremely excited to see what it turns out like. Now, I'm at a crossroads...do I tear it all the way down and start frame up, or should I put it together as is and ride it for a while? Either way, the wheels are getting bead blasted and powder coated flat black this week. I hope to keep this updated as I progress. Let me know what yall think. I bought it for $200

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They use a letter in the vin to distinguish the year, R=1994. An extra bearing on one side is for extra support and strength.

It looks like it sat outside for a while. Moisture gets inside and everywhere. Your going to need to replace a lot of bearings. Bearings are steel and will rust, including the main crankshaft bearings. All your linkage and swingarm bearings too. If you are already going with powdercoating then it looks like you are sparing no expense on this build. Myself I would tear it all down and inspect before thinking of cosmetics.

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The reason for the powder coated wheels is for the strength of the finish and the fact that I have a good friend that will do it cheap. Expense is definitely a factor. How can I check the engine bearings easily? I will be taking the swingarm and linkage off this week. At any rate, here are some pics of todays work. These certainly aren't perfect, but this just saved me around $200 including the fork covers that I have yet to do. I picked up a good looking seat off Ebay for $35. Picks to come when it arrives. Does anyone have any spare side panels they would like to part with? I will have the steering stem apart by next weekend as well. Updates to come. Oh and I'm pretty sure if the claim that plastic shavings and dust cause cancer in the state of California, then I'm a dead man walking in SC lol.

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Edited by Chevyspd
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Theres no way to see if the crank bearings are rusty without splitting the cases, but 2 ways to check it are remove the stator and try to wiggle it up and down, and remove cylinder and rotate the crank and check for smoothness. If there is NO play up and down and the crank turns and the bearings feel perfectly smooth, then your probably good. If the bearing balls and races have ANY rust on them, they will fail.

Check your suspension linkage and swingarm pivot for play before pulling apart, but I would say by the looks of things they are rusted to hell.

Take some time and look at some rebuild threads on these forums. It doesnt matter what brand, you will get an idea how much time effort and money it takes to fix a bike up, costs ad up fast!
A lot of the time the costs outweigh the value of the bike.
Tons of info on the forums, have a look.

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With the rear wheel off, I cant feel any play in the swingarm. Im still going to replace the bearings there. Im sure they are rusted. I am going to have to pull the clutch cover and see why the clutch isnt engaging. I wonder what I will find in there. The lever has spring pressure when squeezed, but the front sprocket still won't rotate freely if the trans is in gear. Hopefully I can get an idea of shaft play with the clutches removed.

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With the rear wheel off, I cant feel any play in the swingarm. Im still going to replace the bearings there. Im sure they are rusted. I am going to have to pull the clutch cover and see why the clutch isnt engaging. I wonder what I will find in there. The lever has spring pressure when squeezed, but the front sprocket still won't rotate freely if the trans is in gear. Hopefully I can get an idea of shaft play with the clutches removed.

 

If its in gear with clutch lever pulled in, it wont turn freely. There will be a fair amount of resistance, same on any bike.

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I have some white 93-95 side covers somewhere.  They're pretty chewed up but not broken that I remember.  I'll post some pics when I dig them out.  You can have them if you want them, just pay for the shipping.

Very awesome! I greatly appreciate that. As it stands, there were none with the bike so that would be killer.

If its in gear with clutch lever pulled in, it wont turn freely. There will be a fair amount of resistance, same on any bike.

With that being said, I will check it with rear wheels mounted back up and engine running. I certainly appreciate the insight.

I have a decent sized parts list to put together. Will keep posted as stuff comes in. The ebay seat says next Tuesday. We shall see.

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Got a bunch of parts from the local cyclegear yesterday, and got a bunch ordered from rocky mtn. Repacked the exhaust today, bled the front brake, took the rear master cylinder apart to find the shaft was stuck. Fixed that and bled the rear. Used a bunch of scotchbrite today lol. While bleeding the fronts, I found that the throttle tube assembly was broken where the cable goes in. So I guess im gonna have to go back to cyclegear lol. Had to drill outthe bolts from the rear master cylinder...that was fun. The wheels are being bead blasted as we speak and the bearings should be here Wednesday. Good thing I dont have to work Wednesday night lol. I picked up some Pillow Top grips with yellow ends. I picked up a new set of sprocket bolts. As soon as I get the wheels back on, Im gonna roll it outside and get to work with a fresh SOS pad. Its friggin amazing what they did for the forks. Speaking of which, fork seals should be here Thursday. I also picked up some new rim locks. The guy at cycle gear gave me some amazing deals. Hes going to mount the tires for me. He even told me that he would trade some tires that I already have (brand new, wrong size) for the tires I need for the RM. I would have taken pictures today, but I couldnt feel my fingers to use the phone. As soon as it warms up, I will try to get more pictures. Everyone have a great weekend!

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On the throttle I would be kinda leery, would stick with the OEM one myself. 

 

Would love to find a RM like you one you bought, still looking!

Edited by ar2stroke
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Next question...does anyone happen to know how to tell the difference between the right and left rear wheel spacers. They have different part numbers according to the fiche, but they look the same to me. Keep in mind before the heckling...these were separate from the bike when I got it all lol. The rear wheel was already disassmbled. Any insight will be greatly appreciated!

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Next question...does anyone happen to know how to tell the difference between the right and left rear wheel spacers. They have different part numbers according to the fiche, but they look the same to me. Keep in mind before the heckling...these were separate from the bike when I got it all lol. The rear wheel was already disassmbled. Any insight will be greatly appreciated!

There is a few other fellas that got this year range in here, I am thinking on the wheel spacers it will not allow the rotor to go into the caliper. Been so long since I worked on the early 90's RM's like doing tires ect.. can't rememeber

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Going to be a fun night. I will start off by offering some advice on cleaning aluminum and lots of various other surfaces. I just know this method works good on mud-stained aluminum. Take scotch brite and cut discs out of the pad. They need to be a little larger than a quarter. Then use your dremel tool and the attachment shaft that has a tiny screw threaded into the tip. Now press that screw through the center of 2 or 3 of those discs you cut out and thread it down into the shaft. Turn your dremel tool on up to about half speed and clean away. If you go too fast, it will pull the scotchbrite discs apart. Worked great for me, and its flexible enough to get into small crevices. Now onto other stuff... A few other things im looking for...I need a metal bracket that the air filter cage attaches to. I need an airbox lid...and I need a front number plate. Also, I need a chain guide for the swingarm. This one e is totally gone. If anyone has any leads besides the ones im watching on ebay, let me know. Thanks guys...oh and im still waiting on the wheels to get blasted... :(

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Here are those covers.  They are rough and it looks like the right has had a small repair cover by a decal.  Message me if you want them, you might be able to work some magic on them.  I got lucky and found UFO replacements on Ebay for $31 shipped instead of messing with these.

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