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Ktm 500 vs Husky 501FE Engine Oil


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Unimportant observation, I'm sure I'm not the first person to bring this to TT attention....

KTM now owns Husky. My cousin just bought a 2015 Husky 501FE. It's even got a KTM stamp on the frame data sticker. I was told it is the same motor as the KTM 500 with the exception being a different head gasket. That being said, I think it's interesting KTM is still stamping a "Bel Ray oil use only" sticker on the side case. Just figured it would have said liquid gold AKA Motorex only. Anybody ever use Bel Ray's oil in anything before?

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Back in 2003 I used their EXS 10w50 very stout stuff($10 per quart), but way too pricey for me nowadays, at least my Locale Yam dealer wants like $19 per quart, but all their oils are outrageously priced. I think belray is a Husky thing, Im not seeing it advertised on my new KTM.

Edited by Spud786
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I've been running Bel Ray 10-50 in my 12' 500 from 6 hrs to 77 @ 20-25hr change intervals. No real negatives or positives to report, the engine runs the way it should. I could probably run a cheaper oil with no issues, but for piece of mind I don't mind spending a few extra bucks in a year on "recommended" oil.

Edited by sniper_101
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You could use Full synthetic Double Ester oil and never have to change, it, if you want the best oil.

Just change the oil filter every ride, and it will literally last forever, because it cannot break down due to heat.

 

...and it's only $75 a 1/2 gallon, so it's a real bargain.   :doh:

That is false. ALL oil breaks down eventually. Double ester oil may shear at a slower rate compared to others, but it is not indestructible. In fact if oil sits for longer than one year (inside the engine) it should be changed. I would not run ANY oil more than 50 hours in a dirt bike. No matter how "good" it may be.

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The oil brand recommended by the bike manufacturer is chosen more based on business relationships with the oil companies than on which oil is "best". Any name brand oil that meets the stated specifications will be fine. And in dirt bikes, oil change intervals have as much to do with the oil getting dirty as with the oil actually breaking down.

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Rotella is a very good oil. But it's too bad they don't have a 10w-40 full synthetic. 5w-40 is a little too thin for my liking. Honestly dino oil works just fine as long as you change within 15 hours or so.  


 based on business relationships ..........

 

Most certainly.

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That is false. ALL oil breaks down eventually. Double ester oil may shear at a slower rate compared to others, but it is not indestructible. In fact if oil sits for longer than one year (inside the engine) it should be changed. I would not run ANY oil more than 50 hours in a dirt bike. No matter how "good" it may be.

 

 

So, all the sealed truck transmissions sold that last 200k miles are working with destroyed oil?  I don't think so. 

 

Oil does not break down by anything but shear forces beyond it's rating or heat exposure beyond it's rating, assuming it does not outgas or receive high moisture exposure.

 

So if you use and oil that is rated beyond the environment it is used in it will last a very long time (ok, not forever).  

All you have to do is keep it clean, which is of course not that simple, and tjhere is no real savings to 'cleaning' your oil.

 

I was trying to make a point that the important part is  not to use it past it's useful life, and to keep it clean.

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So, all the sealed truck transmissions sold that last 200k miles are working with destroyed oil?  I don't think so. 

 

Oil does not break down by anything but shear forces beyond it's rating or heat exposure beyond it's rating, assuming it does not outgas or receive high moisture exposure.

 

So if you use and oil that is rated beyond the environment it is used in it will last a very long time (ok, not forever).  

All you have to do is keep it clean, which is of course not that simple, and tjhere is no real savings to 'cleaning' your oil.

 

I was trying to make a point that the important part is  not to use it past it's useful life, and to keep it clean.

 

you said it will "literally last forever" ....which is obviously not true.

 

Also, you cannot compare motorcycle oil to transmission oil in a truck, that's apples to oranges.

 

Yes it is important not to use oil past it's useful oil life. And, in my opinion, the useful oil life in a motorcycle in no more than 50 hours, no matter what oil type or brand. KTM recommends oil changes every 15 hours. And people should stick to that, if they want a long lasting engine. That is MY point.

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Rotella is a very good oil. But it's too bad they don't have a 10w-40 full synthetic. 5w-40 is a little too thin for my liking. Honestly dino oil works just fine as long as you change within 15 hours or so.

I don't run synthetics... I run the 15/40 diesel oil. Main reason for that is the diesel oils have the highest concentration of ZDDP (zinc EP/anti wear additive). ZDDP (and most "good for bike" additives) is bad for emissions equipment, and is one of the main reason why auto-rated oils are not so good for bikes.

Another note: the greater the disparity between the multi-grade numbers... I.e. 10w60, 0w50, et al... The more polymer viscosity index improver is used, and that is the first element in the oil to be depleted by shear force regardless of the base stock. So beware of extended oil changes on that fancy Motorex race oil

Edited by mjruopp
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Theres two types of synthetics, real synthetics and the fake synthetics, the real ones don't have all the polymers like the fake ones do.

Like and amsoil or redline, or high end silkolene or motul, they aren't going to have all those polymers like grabbing a (synthetic) bottle off the shelf at the local walmart.

Or an easy way, anything below 10 or 11 dollars per quart, aint the real stuff that's recognized world wide as real synthetic. In the U.S. they have approval to sell about anything labled synthetic.

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