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2001 CR250 clutch problem


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Hi all I'm new here and new to 250 2 strokes. I do have a thumper too though and that is my CRF250X! Anyways I just got my 01 CR250 and I'm thinking it might have clutch problems. When I was riding it it felt like it wouldn't shift from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th and sometimes 2nd to 3rd when I was on the throttle really hard. I thought maybe I was just used to the wide ratio of my 250X but my dad said it sounded like I was mis-shifting. After trying varying speeds and throttle amounts I can tell it will go into those upper gears but it seemed like only if I wasn't accelerating really hard. Upon further inspection my dad said the clutch felt pretty weird and we tried to adjust the cable and got it to feel a little better but my dad still thought it felt weird. I didn't get to try riding the bike with the new adjustment because it was getting dark and we had to get going. Later that day I noticed that I cannot roll it (rear wheel drags or engine cranks over) while in gear with the clutch pulled in, not sure if that is normal or not, and the engine turned off. I started it today just to fiddle with putting it in gear while idling to see what it did. It seemed to jerk a bit harder than normal when putting it into 1st but after that it didn't feel like the clutch was dragging since the bike didn't want to lurch forward until I let the clutch out a bit. However when putting it into 2nd while idling it sounded/felt like there may have been a bit of grinding. I didn't test this again since I didn't want to mess anything up. I searched with google and found a few possible problems but none that were specific to my case. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be as thorough as possible. I was going to try changing the oil and inspecting the clutch but I wanted to post here first to know what exactly to look for or if I'm looking in the totally wrong area. Any ideas guys?

 

P.S. - Compared to my 250X my CR250 makes me feel like I need to hold on for dear life when I bury the throttle!  :D

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My 2000 cr250r had bad notches and even one of the bolt holes for the pressure plate springs was "removed".  Expensive to put into a $1400 bike but a new basket and the other part solved it.  Now the rekluse (same as 450x's) works perfectly too.

 

PS Rocky mountain matched the OEM prices from Partzilla or anywhere you can find it cheaper!

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I will be checking the clutch this weekend since I will finally have the time then. If the basket is notched I was probably going to get the wiseco clutch kit. Should I also replace the inner hub or pressure plate or would it be fine to keep using the stock ones? Thanks!

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Okay so I pulled my clutch apart. It looks like the previous owner hasn't changed the oil in awhile since it was pretty black and felt pretty thin. The pads on the fiber discs seem to be almost completely worn off. And in person it was kind of hard to see since the notching on the basket but it's there and I can definitely feel it. I'm not too sure how much notching is considered too much although I'm guessing any bit of notching is too much. Here are some pictures. So I'm thinking I need a new basket and pack, what do you guys think? And to change the oil of course!

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Your basket doesn't look that bad, I see some notching in the one picture but the other picture theres none.  I think you could still get some life out of that.

I would buy a new clutch kit (plates and springs) and throw a good oil in there.  I use BelRay Gear saver in all my bikes and have good results ...its basically ATF 80w.

I am curious as to why you are having trouble shifting at speeds (4/5th gear) because technically you don't need the clutch to shift other than pulling out and stopping.  Sounds like maybe bent shift forks or something???  

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I noticed all the notching was on one side and from looking at the way it works and direction things spin that seems logical that the plates press against the basket on one side more. But all of the gaps in the basket are notched on one side and smooth on the other. I just thought pictures of all of them would be redundant. I probably won't get the time to really ride it soon so I'll just leave it for now and order a new clutch kit. Oh and I looked to see if any of the plates were warped or anything and they all looked to be pretty flat.

 

I hope one of the shift forks aren't bent. And like I said it was erratic and not able to always be duplicated consistently. If I remember correctly it would not shift into 3rd from 2nd every now and then. I wonder could it just be that the oil is bad? I thought I read somewhere that really high quality oils make shifting smoother and what not.

 

EDIT: And by one side I mean on all one one side of the basket fingers/posts or whatever you call those things that the fiber plate tabs push against, and ever single one of the basket posts are notched on the same side.

Edited by 250rider250
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how old is the oil in your bike?

it notches on the power side, as in when you let the clutch out the plates slam against the basket, over time it notches it.

I have no clue. It looks pretty much completely blackened. Doesn't really feel super oily to the touch and just looked like the previous owner left it in there way too long. I usually change these things when I get a bike used anyways. The only time I rode it was around some private property as a test ride to see how it functions. So could the oil be the bigger problem? Or is it likely a combination of clutch and oil causing shifting problems?

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not usually the oil, i would drain it, put new stuff in (i run atf fluid) run it for 3 or 4 mins, then drain that and re fill with more new stuff.

file the notches down a bit, do the oil swap and try it out.

Ok. One thing I did not notice when I test rode it was the clutch slipping so I guess the plates are okay. Just for clarification, by atf do you mean automatic transmission fluid? And should I remove the basket to file it or is it OK to leave it in the bike as long as I flush it after running for a few minutes?

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yes automotive atf, a lot of people run it.

 

i dont think the basket is removable without taking the whole side cover off.

 

drain the oil, with the bike upright you can slide the clutch out enough to not get too much shavings(they should be small anyways) in the bottom end.

 

there should be oil in the bottom end still, after filing tilt the bike further over to get the remaining oil to sweep out the shavings.

 

add the new oil and run then flush and re fill.

 

post a pic of your clutch plates, top and from side.

Edited by Excitable
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Personally I wouldn't try filing it while still connected to the bike. You don't know how good your seals are and you dont want those shavings getting into your bottom end bearings.  At least that is my logic but I'm probably overly safe.

Really I would just put new clutch plates/kit in there and new oil and see how it performs.

Sounds like your problem is beyond the basket though....that basket doesn't look nearly as bad as the one I took out of mine and I didn't have any problems shifting between gears.  My problems were putting it in gear, moving while the clutch was pulled in, and slipping.

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I won't be able to take pictures of the clutch plates for awhile, I'm usually pretty busy during the week and may not have the time to take it apart. The bike is temporarily being stored outside until the garage is all sorted out and I didn't want to leave anything open while being outside so I put it all back together.

 

I always replace gaskets on stuff like that when I remove them. Since I won't be going riding soon and the basket is notched I think I'll just go ahead and get a clutch kit with plates, springs and a basket. Also that way I'll know what's in it and the usage and all that. 

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