Quick Valve adjustment help please.

[voodoolord]

Im usually pretty good at this stuff, Ive adjusted a lot of valves on different bikes. This one is concerning though. 03 TTR225 the manual says TDC is the .T There isn't one, instead theres a dot at about bottom center then a I--I I and the last mark seems to be TDC. I did some research and a few guys though the last one was TDC so I started to adjust there after watching the piston. The valves were really tight, extremely tight. The bike ran well before this and was pretty quiet. I needed to back the bolt off a lot, probably 8 turns at least. I set the intake at .08mm and the exh at .18 mm I think, whatever the manual said I set them 1mm looser than max. I fired it up and it idled fine but there was a remarkable amount of valve clatter.

 

First thing I want to make sure is that I set it at the right mark. Which mark is TDC of the three? Second thing is the bike may have had really tight valves to begin with and maybe the bike is supposed to have that much valve rattle? I don't know. Is the bike supposed to have quiet valves when set right or am I way loose? Thanks for any input.

[LA_Thump]

I'd be cautious- it really should not have been that far off. Was the bike running horribly before you went to adjust it?   I would be overly paranoid here and (if it were me) I would call a few shops that work on TTR's - One of the wrenches will always answer a question. On my 230 it was a dot for TDC.  You can (usually) tell TDC because the valves will not move at all if you are observing them while rotating the motor into and out of TDC. you could watch the piston but you could also be 180 degrees out - everyone has their own methods I usually just go by looking at the valve train.

 

good luck I know how it goes with learning the mechanics of a new bike.

[LA_Thump]

oh wait- you said bike was running good and no valve noise- you should have had to barely turn the adjusters if it was a bit tight. so I don't think you were at TDC. it should be at least as quiet as it was before you started adjusting them.

[LA_Thump]

just thought of something- are you looking for TDC at the cam gear up top or through the sight hole on bottom of motor flywheel? My earlier comment was based on using the cam gear mark- it should be a dot or line and you line it up at 12-oclock with the mark on the valve cover.  You'll find this much easier and all you really care about here is that you have the cams in a "TDC" position so the valves are completely off the cam lobes and on the heel so you can get an accurate reading.    I use a socket wrench on the cam gear bolt to turn it clockwise to the desired position. Of course make sure the spark plug is out and transmission is in neutral   You'll know you are in the right spot because the cam gear will want to fall away a bit one way or the other once you put it on the mark, because there is little resistance at this point between the cam heel and the valve train- which is exactly what you want.

Edited February 10, 2015 by LA_Thump

[Ducky Dog]

TDC on the compression stroke

theres a thread here some where with the correct valve lash settings

[voodoolord]

Thanks for the input. Like I said Im pretty familiar with valve adjustments but it helps to know for sure what the TDC mark looks like and the manual is shiit for information. They say there should be a "T" mark for tdc on the flywheel but there isn't one. Both valves were super tight and definitely closed. Ill go out and recheck it with the cam cover off, that was a good idea. 

[LA_Thump]

good luck hope that helps- I found the cam gear method to be stupid simple on my 230-  hope your 225 is similar- I believe it's the same motor.

[voodoolord]

It looks like its the 3rd mark of the three. It lines up perfectly with the cam mark at 12 oclock and my valves are really loose. I had it 180 deg off I think. Thanks again.

Edited February 11, 2015 by voodoolord

[LA_Thump]

it is a circle / dot on my 230- hoping yours is the same.  you'll know it's right because on that mark lined at 12 o'clock with the cover the cams are on the heel and your valves will be closed. the cam gear will want to fall away slightly either way.  the other marks should not be right because they will be holding one of the valves open and you'll feel the pressure on the cam gear.  only when it is on it's heel for both valves will it feel "loosy" a bit either way, if that makes sense.

Edited February 11, 2015 by LA_Thump

[voodoolord]

Cam mark at 12 oclock, piston as high as it can go and the mark on the 3rd slash. That has to be right.

Edited February 11, 2015 by voodoolord

[LA_Thump]

I would not worry about the flywheel mark- I don't even check to see if the piston is at top i've been doing this so long I go by feel. ;p

 

there is only one point on the cam where both valves are resting on the cam heel and valves are fully closed. since you have the plug out,turn the motor and put your finger over the plug hole lightly. you'll feel the air compressing out past your finger as the piston comes up- that is the compression stroke. if there is no pressure on your finger as piston comes up  it means you are on the exhaust stroke so just go around one more me. when piston is at top during the compression stroke line up the cam mark with top mark on valve cover, rock it back and forth slightly then back to the mark,  and you'll see that the valves are closed and you can set your clearance.

 

btw it is super easy to turn the motor with a socket on the cam gear bolt so you can still reach around and put your finger over the plug hole. trans in neutral of course.

Edited February 11, 2015 by LA_Thump

[voodoolord]

Ya I got all that, I just like to be sure especially on a bike Im not familiar with. The cam mark helped a lot, It was the third mark on the flywheel with the cam straight up. Purrs like a kitten now. Thanks guys.

[LA_Thump]

Excellent! Glad it worked out. Happy riding

[voodoolord]

I ride a cr500 much less maintenance. This is my wifes ride. Thanks though ?

[LA_Thump]

I ride a cr500 much less maintenance. This is my wifes ride. Thanks though ?

 

Hey brother you know the deal - "Happy wife = happy life"   lol

 

Do you have a lot of maintenance issues with the TTR? Most of my friends that have one never do crap to it except change the oil once in awhile and put gas in it. That's the main reason I picked one up for the wife as well. I have way too many "high maintenance toys" as it is.. heh

[voodoolord]

I just rescued this bike a couple weeks ago from some mentally challenged mid 20's wannabe mechanics. They were in the process of completely ruining the bike trying to figure out why it wouldn't run. Turned out to be a bad coil. Ive been fixing their fck ups since I got it. My CR500 has been on the same cylinder for 15 years and still runs strong, hopefully the TTR will be as reliable.

[LA_Thump]

That's pretty funny but unfortunate- Lord knows how some of these wrench shops get to call themselves mechanics. -and this is one if the simplest bikes to work on IMO.  Good luck and hope it does you well.

 

I've bought a few challenged bikes in the past, most were absolutely great but one cost me an ass-load of money- a $30k custom chopper I "rescued" for what I thought was a steal at $6700, and then had to drop another $10k into it and six months of time - ouch - the things that were effed up by the shop I bought it from were mind-numbingly stupid. I think a 10-year-old would have done a better job. crazy. 

 

Anyway it's a rippin bad ass bike now that I completely disassembled every nut bolt, wire, engine component and put it all back together- Putting down 120hp and 130tq- 2001 Big Dog chopper, I have some pics of it in my "garage" here along with my other baby, a 2013 Harley Breakout (customized of course..)

Edited February 11, 2015 by LA_Thump

[LA_Thump]

Garage: https://www.thumpertalk.com/garage/?do=item_list&search_term=424667&search_field=member_id&search_method=exact

Edited February 11, 2015 by LA_Thump