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Chain and Sproket questions & 10,000km parts replacement helpN

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Hello! I have hit 10,000km on my 2014 DRZ400sm and have some questions.

 

1. What kind of chain do I need to get? I am going be buying a bunch of new parts in this order with my chain and one of those parts is a spare sproket to give me more low end torque or wheelie power  :p  :thumbsup: I was going to get a 14 tooth front sprocket. I dont know mubh about changing sprokets other than less teeth in the front is more wheelie power and more teeth in the rear sprocket is more wheelie power. 

 

The riding I do is mostly street. I do go offroad in the summer but 80% of the time she is a pavement princess. I ride highways alot and mostly sit around 80 - 100km/h. I would love to hear anyones opinions on the 14t sprocket change and am open to other suggestions. Ideally if its not the best for a full time change I would like to swap between a 14 and 15 for days I want to wheelies and days I will be mainly just commuting.

 

2. Do i need to replace the rear sprocket with the chain? There are aluminium and steel ones available. whats the different and advantages of one over the other?

 

3. What is the different between X and O ring? This is my first experience with this stuff so I dont know any knowledge and am all ears to any info I can get.

 

I dont know what I would do without you guys on TT. This is by far the best knowledge in the world for DRZ400. because of you, I have been able to learn everything I have dreamed of and am able to do the maintenance and put in new parts myself which is something I ahve always wanted to gain te knowledge of.

 

So thanks! You guys rock!

:ride:  :ride:

Happy and safe riding folks!

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@ 10000 km. time to replace both sprockets and chain. Good idea to get the 14 and 15 t for gearing change ups. For durability I would go with a steel rear sprocket. X ring chains are supposed to be better than O ring. I am a big fan of the Superlite steel sprockets. Chain and sprocket kits are readily available through Thumpertalk venders and  http://sprocketcenter.com/off-road-sprockets/suzuki/drz-models/drz-400s-2000-2012/new-520-superlite-rs8-series-steel-sprocket-set-with-your-choice-of-x-ring-chain-suzuki-drz-400s-00-13.html

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1) You need a 520 O-ring (or X-ring or Z-ring) chain, don't get a non O-ring chain. SM's come with 110 link chain and S/E models come with a 112 link chain, if you change the gearing from stock it may require a different amount of links depending on how far away from stock you go. Typically chains come as 120 links and you cut to the required length.

 

2) It's common practice to replace the chain and sprockets as a set, because if a worn sprocket is used then it will wear out the chain prematurely. IMO steel is the only way to go on the street, and aluminum for race applications. Steel is heavier but lasts longer than aluminum, and aluminum is lighter but wears faster than steel.

 

3) The difference is just the cross section of the ring, there is currently O-ring, X-ring, and Z-ring. The X-ring and Z-ring are supposed to have less friction than the o ring.

 

Go to www.gearingcommander.com there you can play around with gearing and see how it could affect the ride. Personally I would keep the gearing stock (or very close to stock) for the riding you are describing.

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i second the recommend for steel sprockets, you'll probably not like the lower gear if you ride street alot .. i would definitely not skimp on the chain, they are NOT all created equal, you more or less get what you pay for with a chain, i got a renthal oring chain and its been a very good chain with little to no stretch so far  .. also, a chain-tool kit or at the very least a chain breaker really simplifies dealing with chains, its always best to buy them long if you plan on using the same chain on multiple gears, then see where you want to break it after you have everything mocked up ..

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Agree with above. If you are mainly street, you won't be happy with the 14/44 at 80 mph. It will be screaming at you. 

 

If you want wheelie power, and 80 mph sustained speeds you will probably want to look at other power enhancing mods like FCR carb, full exhaust, maybe hot cams, better clutch, etc. 

 

If anything, you should be looking at going with 41 rear sprocket, if not already (if SM, might be stock 41 not sure). Be much easier on your engine on those extended 80 mph sessions. 

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Agree with above. If you are mainly street, you won't be happy with the 14/44 at 80 mph. It will be screaming at you. 

 

If you want wheelie power, and 80 mph sustained speeds you will probably want to look at other power enhancing mods like FCR carb, full exhaust, maybe hot cams, better clutch, etc. 

 

If anything, you should be looking at going with 41 rear sprocket, if not already (if SM, might be stock 41 not sure). Be much easier on your engine on those extended 80 mph sessions. 

 

Thanks for reply Doug, So if i went down to 14 it would be putting way to much stress on my engine? would it only be putting stress at 100+ KM? I do have an 39mm FCR and should be getting my MRD SSW full system in a few weeks. how much do hot cams cost and What would a new clutch do. any recommendations for a specific kind?

1) You need a 520 O-ring (or X-ring or Z-ring) chain, don't get a non O-ring chain. SM's come with 110 link chain and S/E models come with a 112 link chain, if you change the gearing from stock it may require a different amount of links depending on how far away from stock you go. Typically chains come as 120 links and you cut to the required length.

 

2) It's common practice to replace the chain and sprockets as a set, because if a worn sprocket is used then it will wear out the chain prematurely. IMO steel is the only way to go on the street, and aluminum for race applications. Steel is heavier but lasts longer than aluminum, and aluminum is lighter but wears faster than steel.

 

3) The difference is just the cross section of the ring, there is currently O-ring, X-ring, and Z-ring. The X-ring and Z-ring are supposed to have less friction than the o ring.

 

Go to www.gearingcommander.com there you can play around with gearing and see how it could affect the ride. Personally I would keep the gearing stock (or very close to stock) for the riding you are describing.

Great! Thanks man I understand the different chains now. I think I am going to go with a DID medium O ring gold chain. what would you choose? I would pay lots it doesnt matter.

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Thanks for reply Doug, So if i went down to 14 it would be putting way to much stress on my engine? would it only be putting stress at 100+ KM? I do have an 39mm FCR and should be getting my MRD SSW full system in a few weeks. how much do hot cams cost and What would a new clutch do. any recommendations for a specific kind?

Great! Thanks man I understand the different chains now. I think I am going to go with a DID medium O ring gold chain. what would you choose? I would pay lots it doesnt matter.

Sorry Chub, 

 

I read as 80 mph....oops, my bad.  You are only talking about 50-65 mph actually...you are absolutely FINE with 14/44 at those speeds sustained and even faster. I'm running that gearing and it loves those speeds.  Sorry I read wrong....wheelie away!!!

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The rule of thumb is the replace both sprockets and chain all at once.

 

Also use a rivet master link.

 

My buddy did not do this and had a chain failure on the freeway locking his rear wheel up at 70MPH, it was not pretty.

 

O ring chains are the way to go unless you are pro racing.

 

DiD makes top notch chains.

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Wee! Got a new gold D.I.D chain and waiting on two new sprokets to come in. I got a 14 front and 42 rear

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