sticky/not always engaging/dragging clutch.. Help :( plenty of reference info inside

[DeanR]

Howdy all... This is dean from sw of denver here.  I try not to post help me threads and usually don't because i go OCD on reading every thread possible that might help me. After spending 20+ hours over the fall and winter researching meticulously and finally taking apart the right cover of my bike I think that I have some clarity now.  But would LOVE for any helpful insights...  

 

here are all the mods that i am aware of on the bike...

 

Race tech springs
Race tech gold valves
MSR shifter
Jetting and easy idle adjustment screw
3x300 mod... Someone cut a big hole on top and drilled 30 1/2 inch holes on the right side?!? 
Aluminum case covers
Devol radiator guards
Devol rear disc guard
Kick start
Large lithium ion battery
Tug straps
4 gallon ims fuel tank
Carbon fiber skid plate
Electric grip heaters
Drz400s cooling system (with fan)
MCCT
fat bars
Brothers triple clamp
Full Yoshimura RS3 exhaust.. FOR SALE unless it is under 97db.. Haven't checked yet
Rekluse 2.0 auto clutch FOR SALE previous owner said it had 500 miles on it... Works perfectly..
Digital speedo
Front wave rotor
Extra knobbies
Extra sprocket sizes
All stock parts taken off came in a box!

 

 

OK.. lets begin....

 

I bought a heavily modded 00E at the beginning of last year.  Have riddin the crud out of it and crashed it plenty as well (new radiators, hoses and cyrca hand guards).

 

 But my current problems began at the end of summer last year.

 

 I took out the recluse 2.0 exp clutch that was installed because i prefer the standard method of clutching.  If you are not familiar, the recluse replaces a few of your middle drive and driven plates... So I took out the outer drive and driven plates to get to the recluse, leaving the the inner couple of drive and driven plates as they were, added the drive and driven plates that the recluse replaced and put everything back together properly (double checked when i took apart). 

 

Everything was fine for the first ride.  But when i went to to a precheck on the bike on the second or third ride, crud started to happen.  when I started the bike up and put it into first with the clutch in, it grabbed way harder than normal with the clutch lever squeezed and killed the engine.  So i revved it up more and put it into first and the clutch lever would only release half way!  (clutch cable has been checked, replaced and calibrated properly.)  It made a terrible squeeling and grinding noise and felt like the clutch was grabbing at 20%.  I finagled with the clutch and throttle until the clutch grabbed and then the bike worked great most of the time.  But when i came to a stop and tried to clutch it in first the grinding and squeeling noise would come back and the clutch wouldn't release.  Sometimes it works and most of the time it squeels, grinds, doesnt release and doesn't grab when i try to take off.  

 

I thought it might be the clutch basket.  I took everything apart today to checkout (kickstarter was a pain and i have to figure out how to reinstall gears and springs).  Well, the clutch basket looks almost perfect!  And the inner one that holds the driven plates was only worn a little bit, i am going to file, but not worn bad enough to make the plates stick.  The driven plates are in great condition with no burning and are flat.  The drive plates check out as well.  The clutch springs checked out bad, they are mostly at 49mm and are supposed to be 49.9mm, not terrible but i will replace.  

 

So!  on my teardown and inspection everything checked out great besides the springs... EXCEPT for one thing,  there is supposed to be a drive plate that has a bigger circumfirence than the other 7... All 8 of mine are the exact same at 116mm, there isnt one that has the measurement of 122.5mm.   And the kicker?  Both shudder springs (flat and curved) were still installed.  One weird thing, although all 8 of my drive plates are the same size, there is one that has a thicker metal part in the middle (look at the picture in the next post)

 

 Now my too many hours of research has informed me that if an aftermarket clutch is installed that doesn't have the larger drive plate... you take out the shudder springs...  COOL! PROBLEM SOLVED!??????   Hopefully, I am going to order parts here in a little bit.   

 

But here's my thing.  Would having the shudder springs on contribute to how my bike is acting?  And if that is the case, why on the first 6 rides or so with the recluse clutch in did it not have any problems?  the first drive plate was not of a larger size and the clutch acted perfectly...  

 

I am about to hit up the online parts store of my choosing and order some gaskets, springs, oil and whatnot.. but if anyone has further insight, please help me ?...   also if you live in the area, i wouldn't mind a second eye

 

[DeanR]

Here's a pic of 2 drive plate.. although they all have the same inside circumstances, one of the 8 has a thicker middle part.

Could this be the reason for the .9 mm thinner clutch springs?

[araitim]

Of the shudder spring was installed in the correct direction and one of the friction plates isn't bigger to accommodate the shudder springs size then I would guess maby someone installed a new clutch with the flat ring and shudder ring in when it should have been removed. The way I understand it, most aftermarket clutches dont have them. How much were you wanting for the Rekluse? I have been looking at these since I bought my bike and really want to give one a shot bit can't swing the price of new. Obviously it wasn't for you since your selling it. What didn't you like?

Edited March 3, 2015 by araitim

[DeanR]

Sorry. . I copied pasted that part. . Already sold that to someone on here

[DeanR]

And yes, I get that the shudder springs shouldn't of been there. Just wandering why everything worked fine when the recluse was in and the shudder springs were still improperly still in. And if having the shudder springs in and the clutch springs being a Lil too short would make my bike act so bad..

Just ordered a new clutch cover gasket, clutch springs, oil, rtv (water pump minor ly leaking) and thread locker.. I'll keep up to date on my progress and implore anyone to give their 2 cents.. about to loose it with this bike ; (

[DeanR]

Friendly bump... does anyone have any thoughts on any of this?parts Should be here tomorrow any insight

[Rock Monster]

 I know this is a stretch but did you ever disconnect the cable from the lever arm at the motor?

[Rock Monster]

Oh, and PS very well written post! Great info for the question asked! Your OCD reminds me of myself! LOL ?

[DeanR]

No I haven't .. it's still attached at the moment. Have a new cable that should be here tomorrow.

[ohgood]

most of the problems with clutches are poor cable adjustment. maybe the previous owner changed the pivot arm's index for some reason with the rekluse. no idea. people do odd things.

 

i'd keep the rekluse myself. assemble and adjust as recommended, and enjoy thousands of miles of riding. 

 

but people do odd things. 

[DeanR]

I sold it last year... something about not having the engine brake all the time or going downhill was really really hard for me to deal with. I understand that it makes trail riding easier, but for me, I like to clutch

[DeanR]

and like I said, they kill adjustments pretty darn good. and I'm not sure if that would be the reason why the clutch sticks half way in and half way out, grinds... but that's why I'm here ?

[DeanR]

Got my parts in! Can't try everything till the gasket maker cures in the waterpump. Noticed last year that it was leaking a Lil bit. Thanks to the water pump article, I shouldn't have a leak anymore.

Also the new ebc springs measured in at 52.75 mm .. the old ones were at 49.. I should know sometime on Saturday if I can go to Moab

[DeanR]

Putting that o-ring in for the waterpump was a pain

[DeanR]

Ok.. have only tested for 10 min.. but EVERY THING is fixed!

No more leaky waterpump, no more sticky clutch, no more screeching and the clutch grabs and releases fine ( think I am going to move the clutch arm out aspiring or two for more movement though).

It took me a long time to put together because... I realized that the previous owner did not reinstall the retainer plate and screws that went over the kickstarter idle gear. So that combined with the shudder springs being installed when they shouldn't have, there were big problems in that right side.

Did the thumpertalk waterpump fix along with the counter sprocket fix as well. The pump was leaking and the CS bolt came off with my fingers! THANKS community!

I tried to take off the 3 screws for the stater cover. But my impact drive is apparently broken... it looks like the previous owner stripped them out pretty good, going to buy a new impact and hopefully get them out tomorrow. My voltage meter read at 12.4v at the battery which is basically dead.. worried about my charging system now

[DeanR]

[DeanR]

did a 42 mile test today. Had no issues at all. The worn out lithium battery was testing out at 13.5 after the ride with the bike running. Until I stoped the bike and the battery started decharging.

Earlier it was testing out with the bike running at 12.5 and it went down to 9.6v when I turned the fan. Think the bad battery was just drain on the charging system. After I charged the battery it only showed 9.6 v the next day

Edited March 16, 2015 by DeanR

[ohgood]

Ok.. have only tested for 10 min.. but EVERY THING is fixed!

No more leaky waterpump, no more sticky clutch, no more screeching and the clutch grabs and releases fine ( think I am going to move the clutch arm out aspiring or two for more movement though).

It took me a long time to put together because... I realized that the previous owner did not reinstall the retainer plate and screws that went over the kickstarter idle gear. So that combined with the shudder springs being installed when they shouldn't have, there were big problems in that right side.

Did the thumpertalk waterpump fix along with the counter sprocket fix as well. The pump was leaking and the CS bolt came off with my fingers! THANKS community!

I tried to take off the 3 screws for the stater cover. But my impact drive is apparently broken... it looks like the previous owner stripped them out pretty good, going to buy a new impact and hopefully get them out tomorrow. My voltage meter read at 12.4v at the battery which is basically dead.. worried about my charging system now

 

 

man, that CS nut is a life saver. pat yourself on the back for not crashing - seriously, that's an often overlooked point of failure. 

 

rock on  

[DeanR]

I pat myself on the back enough as it is with my friends. .. yall deserve the pat. A manual can only tell you so much. Thus forum has years and years of additional information