Cheap two stroke oil?

Hey everyone, I haven't posted in a little while but I'm back. Has anyone used any kind of 6 dollar oil? He says it's the best stuff ever but I think it's shitty oil. He runs it in his banshee 350 and he told me to run it in my YZ. It's valvoline I think, why do they call it valveoline if two strokes have ports? Why don't they call it portoline? (One of my stupid no humor jokes)

I run Yamalube and it's about 10$ and never has a problem. I've ran more expensive also, but I tear down my motors every winter anyways. Everything still looks good.

Your thinking of valvoline multi purpose two stroke oil. Valvoline is simply the brand name and does not pertain to the oil itself. That oil is decent i ran it for a while but relatively low quality. Its better in weed wackers or chain saws. I run castor 927 or lucas oil semi synthetic or redline racing 2 cycle oil

You can get a 4 quart jug of Yamalube for under 20 dollars. That's under 5 bucks a quart for good oil. Valvoline will lubricate as will any outboard oil but in my experience it will make it harder to jet and will leak oil from the silencer constantly.

Never ceases to amaze me how many people in this hobby can afford an $8600 bike, gear, fancy pickup lifted and all the getup, yet do not want to take the time to buy premium oil, and some race fuel in a clean jug for their bike. 

 

And I will probably get flamed for this.

 

Stillsmoking, I am interested in where you buy your yamalube by the gallon for that price.  Not bad at all. 

Edited by Lindsey97

Rocky Mountain ATV had it for $17.00 last time I looked but even my local dealer sells it for $21.00.

It'd be funny if Yamalube is made by Valvoline!

If an oil is FD rated and I use lots of it (at least 1:32), then I don't get paranoid if the stuff is cheap...

There is a Valvoline "racing 2 stroke oil". It's JASO-FD and/or ISO EGD rated. That's the highest quality rating possible. And it's quite cheap. I've bought and burned about 4L of that oil. Works fine. 32:1 premix. Minimal or zero smoke.

I've done about 80 hrs on my current 295 piston. Maybe half of that on this Valvoline oil. It'll be interesting to inspect the top end wear on next top end rebuild. I've got the new piston kit ready, just in no rush right now. Still running very smooth and good power.

Edited by numroe

Never ceases to amaze me how many people in this hobby can afford an $8600 bike, gear, fancy pickup lifted and all the getup, yet do not want to take the time to buy premium oil, and some race fuel in a clean jug for their bike. 

 Spot on Lindsey97. 

 

I just bought my first two stroker that takes a premix fuel (first one is a DT with injection) and plan on using Dumonde Tech Z1 premix for a while then plan on switching to our* premium premix DTP. 

 

I say our* because I work for the company that distributes Dumonde Tech Racing oils. 

 

At $12.99 and $17.99 a pint is might actually be the most expensive oil. I am cheap but plan on running high quality oil and fuel to protect my investment (my new 2000 YZ250 was $800 and so far I have bought about $500 in parts none of which were engine parts. The engine was the only thing serviced by the previous owner.) Jist- I have a $1300 YZ250 and plan on buying the best oil I can find. As far as I know that's the oil I sell. I suspect however that it might be so good that I don't see the results since I'm not racing, at Bonniville setting speed records or winning at pikes peak. That's where the oils have been developed and testet (and the motorcycles have won). 

 

---> you seasoned TT guys lemme know if I am hijacking this thread. I plan on using this forum more and would like to use it correctly. Thanks. -E <---

I just  mix the Lucas at the factory ratio of 20-1.

 

I know that I have no worries with the thick blue cloud that follows me.

Motul 800 2T has about the

strongest film strength. After

sitting in the garage all winter

the oil is still there, where other

brands seem to evaporate,

or turn to tree sap ?

Yamalube is good, and some

castor based oils like Maxima

927, and Klotz Benol ( both mix

with methanol too ) make metal

wear last longer. Have seen bike

cylinders that are run on mower

and chainsaw cheaper oils, and

the piston ring wears a deeper

pattern into the cyl plating.

Saving a couple bucks on oil

usually costs way more when

the engine wears out too soon,

or blows up. Nothin is more fun

for an engine builder, than

grinding and removing broken

rod and bearing debris out of

a set of cases.

Check fleabay, also. A few months ago I got an unopened case of Yamalube 2r for $100. Free shipping. That was 24 pints. Came out to a little over $4 a pint. May get lucky!

Edit: Do yourself a favor and run a quality oil.

Edited by frettie

I have been running Valvoline Multi-Purpose 2 Cycle Engine Oil for 20 years in my '95 yz250. Original cylinder from Eric Gore and stock piston in 1995 still in bike. This bike gets hammered once a week six months a year until this fall when I finally freshened up to a 2009. People have always and still comment on how nice and strong the motor is on that bike. They are referring to Eric Gore's cylinder work from '95 but its still rippin thanks to the Valvoline. I get it at the local NAPA in my town and run it 50:1 ratio on pump gas. Just got my 2009 cylinder, head and Weisco piston from Eric Gore last friday and plan to run Valvoline. "If it aint broke, don't fix it", can't wait! I run mostly in the woods, I clear its throat when I warm it up, run the woods for two hours, then clear its throat just before putting it away.

You can get a 4 quart jug of Yamalube for under 20 dollars. That's under 5 bucks a quart for good oil. Valvoline will lubricate as will any outboard oil but in my experience it will make it harder to jet and will leak oil from the silencer constantly.

 

Rocky Mountain ATV had it for $17.00 last time I looked but even my local dealer sells it for $21.00.

You must be talking about 2-S because 2-R only comes in 16oz and 32oz varieties. 

Motul 800 2T has about the

strongest film strength. After

sitting in the garage all winter

the oil is still there, where other

brands seem to evaporate,

or turn to tree sap ?

Yamalube is good, and some

castor based oils like Maxima

927, and Klotz Benol ( both mix

with methanol too ) make metal

wear last longer. Have seen bike

cylinders that are run on mower

and chainsaw cheaper oils, and

the piston ring wears a deeper

pattern into the cyl plating.

Saving a couple bucks on oil

usually costs way more when

the engine wears out too soon,

or blows up. Nothin is more fun

for an engine builder, than

grinding and removing broken

rod and bearing debris out of

a set of cases.

I use the Motul 800. It's expensive and spooges like crazy, but it's always given me the best looking engine.

You must be talking about 2-S because 2-R only comes in 16oz and 32oz varieties.

I just looked in the garage and you're right. I run Yamalube 10 40 in the trans and 2R as pre mix. I haven't had to buy either in about 4 months partly due to weather and I mixed up which I've been buying gallons of. I have been buying gallons of 10 40 and quarts of 2R.

It'd be funny if Yamalube is made by Valvoline!

If an oil is FD rated and I use lots of it (at least 1:32), then I don't get paranoid if the stuff is cheap...

There is a Valvoline "racing 2 stroke oil". It's JASO-FD and/or ISO EGD rated. That's the highest quality rating possible. And it's quite cheap. I've bought and burned about 4L of that oil. Works fine. 32:1 premix. Minimal or zero smoke.

I've done about 80 hrs on my current 295 piston. Maybe half of that on this Valvoline oil. It'll be interesting to inspect the top end wear on next top end rebuild. I've got the new piston kit ready, just in no rush right now. Still running very smooth and good power.

 

My local dealer said the 10W40 Yamahalube is actualy a Kendal Oil, with some  additives doe to the clutch

Maybe its the same with 2-stroke oil ? 

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